cruiser54

Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block. The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily. Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1999 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender. You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical. You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications. The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine. As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case. Revised 03/28/13

It's mumble-meters and the same as a Peugeot.

Check the tCU fuse for continuity and do Tip 10 in my link below.

Check to see if the TCU fuse is blown or corroded first.

No kidding.

I'm not surprised. "Most"? Why not all?

Unplug the little plug at the dizzy and see what happens.

And on a Renix, it's not really a cam position sensor. It's a sync generator for the fuel injectors. Year of the truck? I would click on the link in my signature and do Tips 1 through 5 if an 87 or 88 and all but Tip 2 if it's 89 to 90.

actually shoulda been done first.....

Oh my gosh, you guys. Here's how the factory suggests you shift the transfer case and I've been doing this since these things were new and I worked at the dealership. Quoted from the owner's manual. The suggestions in CAPS are mine. "To engage, shift the transfer case lever from 2H to 4H while the vehicle is moving at any legal speed". I LET OFF THE GAS, THROW THE LEVER, TAP THE GAS AND LET OFF. 4L position: " To engage, slow the vehicle to 2-3 MPH , shift the transmission to Neutral, then shift the transfer lever to the right and pull firmly rearward to 4L". TO SHIFT OUT OF 4L, SHIFT THE TRANSMISSION INTO NEUTRAL WITH THE VEHICLE STOPPED, SHIFT THE TRANSFER CASE LEVER TO 2H, THEN THE TRANS TO D IF YOU HAVE AN AUTOMATIC, OR INTO FIRST GEAR WITH A MANUAL, AND CONTINUE ON. Revised 11/20/2014

Plugs, wires, cap and rotor are to be changed all together every 30,000 miles.

Well, what was the fix?

Perhaps. I've always used the renix manifolds match ported to either a REnix or early HO head.

I match port my head and intake manifolds, but you don't have to. Just use the gasket intended for which ever manifold you are using or you'll have a huge vacuum leak.

Oh. So the waters are now a bit less muddied. Why do folks keep answering these threads that make about as much sense as asking how long a piece of string is?

Yep. Little different til 99. A lot different in later years. But, you know, it's fun to ask questions.

Why? Is something wrong with your current intake manifold?

That's factory tar. The connector you're messing with is the C100. Same applies to it as the C101 as suggested above.

Teehee,,,,,,,,,

Yep. And those rigs had a special version of the differential made by a company I used to work for.

What else used the "guts" of the corporate 20?

Here's all you need: http://cruiser54.com/?p=121

AMC 20, Corporate 20,

The lever position isn't good enough?