cruiser54

Yes that would of been such a increase all the way around, and offroading would have improved a lot I bet MPGs increased also.

My very first question: Do you have a problem or issue with the Renix system on your 89 Comanche right now? Suspect you do not have a problem right now. Rather from your question, you fear running the Renix system on a stroker motor. My suggestion would be to do research at JeepStrokers.com and the old Yahoo jeepstrokers group. See if you can find any issues with strokers and the Renix system. He'll find fewer issues with the Renix system there than with Chrysler's system. LOL. I'm putting a 4.6 into my Renix MJ with no fears.

I have had numerous AFBs also known as Edelbrocks now. Always on off road vehicles. Even with modifications, they didn't work well when the going got steep. I got rid of the one on my FJ40 V8 and went to Holley Pro-Jection and never looked back.

I installed one of those on a Wrangler with a 258 about 12 years ago. The kit was almost $200 back then. Folks have strokers running with Renix systems on them. I don't see what the big deal is.

Only used. I'm working on a writeup to eliminate that rubber fitting. I'll tell you this though. If you remove the throttle body and tap the hole in it to 1/8 NPT, you can buy a fitting to screw into it..... Here's the rough draft of Tip 29. I was planning on including part numbers where the parentheses are. If you want to do this and provide some photos and part numbers, along with any other suggestions, please feel free to help. The Renix throttle bodies have a strange and failure prone connector on the side where the MAP supply originates and then runs up to the MAP sensor located on the firewall. This hose/pipe assembly is no longer available for purchase. The real kicker here is how critical this line is in supplying the correct vacuum signal to the MAP, the most relied upon sensor for the ECU to read regarding air/fuel ratio. Any cracks, melted spots, or loose rubber connectors can cause driveability issues. There’s a simple fix though. All that’s required is a 1/8” NPT tap, a new throttle body gasket ( ), and a vacuum fitting ( ). Remove the throttle body and take it to the workbench. Using an oiled tap along with a driver, carefully thread the lower of the 2 holes of the throttle body. Don’t go too deep. These are pipe threads. Flush the hole with carb cleaner and inspect for any left over cuttings. Take the vacuum fitting ( ) and put a LITTLE sealer on the threads. I prefer Permatex #2 but almost anything is fine. Avoid RTV. Carefully screw the fitting in until snug. Now you may need to replace the pipe up to the MAP sensor. Always use a rigid pipe like plastic as the original was, and route it running uphill to the MAP sensor. Some folks even use xyz metal brake line. The plastic pipe can be bent to fit using a hair dryer to heat it before bending it. Use flexible vacuum hose ( ) at each end to attach the pipe. This is an excellent time to do a complete throttle body and IAC cleaning. See Tip 11.

"Over" the brake booster? I can't get a look at mine right now, but I've done enough boosters to think that cable goes to the driver's side of the booster and along the inner body.

Great!!

Brake cleaner, after picking it out with a pocket screwdriver.

Install a stand alone system with poor grounds and you've gone nowhere, eh?

http://oljeep.com/gw/elec/cherokee/edge_cherokee.html

Got a trailer plug dangling out back somewhere?

Gene, you are on to something. The brown wire at the ignition switch feeds blower motor and turn signals as well as something else. The switch overheats and burns the brown wire at the connector per the photo below.

I disagree. There are few things as reliable as a properly set up carburetor. Fuel injection may provide better fuel economy across a wider variety of operating conditions, but I have always believed that you have a better chance of limping home with a carburetor than you do with fuel injection. The '95 Chrysler injection system is pretty good, but IMHO there's a certain amount of "cool" factor to running a carburetor. The trick is deciding what carburetor, and then sizing it. If I were doing it, I'd be looking for a progressive 2-barrel, with a small primary venturi and a larger secondary venturi. (Of course, I'm not sure such a thing exists, but I think so.) Or go all-out and get a triple Weber setup ... Eagle, triple webers are blasphemy. Dual SU carbs all the way. :yes: Ever see this Jeep engine? https://www.google.com/search?q=jeep+230+ohc+engine&rlz=1C1KMZB_enUS546US547&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjj_cS8pqjKAhUS4WMKHWcOD-8QsAQINw&biw=1344&bih=734#imgrc=XTqycS4Po5Bj1M%3A

Is the cable assembly routed correctly?

You've been listening to the wrong people.

Mopar, from the dealer?

Yup. Are your intake manifold bolts a bit loose?

Contact Programbo on Cherokee Forum.

I think you're nuts to take that approach. Your unfamiliarity with these engines is trumping the good advice you're being given. A factory thermostat would solve the underheating issue. The tip I gave you for oil in the air filter came from Jeep Engineering..........

Voltage is good and amps are low. Voltage is getting bottled up somewhere or the alternator is putting out low amperage. .

I think you're fine. Ever see this? http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/renix-voltage-gauge-fix-684375/

Ditch those original injectors in favor or volvo 746s no matter what.

Contact Paradise XJ here and see what he has to say.

WJ versus 95 to 96 XJ booster Actually, the WJ booster is in some ways easier than the 95 to 96 XJ. I've done both. XJ, you don't have to mess with the firewall. No big deal anyway. But, you have to move the washer reservoir. And, once the original booster comes out, the bracket inside the cab moves and makes it a bear to install the new booster. WJ you have to bend or cut the firewall lip, but don't move the washer bottle. As an added bonus, the mounting studs of the WJ booster are a bit smaller and it's easier to get in. Another bonus with the WJ is that it has FLEXIBLE lines from the master cylinder that make putting things together MUCH easier. And, WJ boosters are newer and easier to find…..