omega_rugal

it is, it limits the fun i can have in my MJ and how much can go on upgrades instead of fuel

i have seen many cars with 4 speed trannies non-OD trannies perform better than their 5 speed OD counterparts, my 97 Sable returns 1-2 more mpgs in D as long i don't drive faster than 45 mph due the TC locking up faster and staying that way, i also can pass other cars faster due not having to downshift every time i floor it... my older carbed 93 Tsuru , 4 speed transaxle was more efficient than my mother´s newer, fuel inyected, 5 speed tsuru, running both cars at the same time, with full tanks and the refilling after reaching our destination mine got around 5% better economy, confirmed real world test. if OD it´s supposed to boost fuel consumption, engine wear, drive train wear and so on and so forth why i´m getting better results with D than in OD? my guess is that in D frictional losses are lower, that combined with the taller ratios that non OD usually have puts the engine in a more efficient range, and in my sable´s case, locking the torque converter earlier (the ax4s shift programming sucks @$$, who made this thing?) i´m bored right now so bear with me...

was the truck running when you got it? are you sure the 4.1 axles are good? if so, swap them whole...

on carburated 2.5l is there an ECU controlling the spark? i have seen diaghrams where the CPS plugs directly to the ignition coil...

i didn[t know that

i think the dakota V6 used the NV1500, the 2.5 used the ax15

nope

that[s the one, thanks btw, both are tighten clockwise right?

yes, a mixer to a plastic elbow and a long pcv pipe, no electronics just physics...

is this thing really necesarry? some say the 4.0 works fine without it, the renix manual says is used to syncronize the inyectors or else the ecu will "guess" the inyection order which may or may not work properly, today i removed all the wiring for it on mine since i don´t use gasoline and noticed no change...

anyone has the part no. of the adapter to change the renix to Ford oil filters? the only store i have near that could handle it is autozone i´m tired of paying premium for the old metric filter, also ford one´s are larger, more oil, more pleasure...

makes you want to go and kick that someone´s @$$...

WJ pumps are said to be more efficient, also if works ok in the highway and gets hot in traffic then you have an airflow problem, more likely your mechanical fan, lets say the fanclutch is useful to waste less HP at low temps but it not so good to cool the radiator at high temps, there´s always some slippage even if the fanclutch is new and working. - add some hood louvers, draining any hot air out the hood helps a lot - try a lower temp thermostat - ditch the ,mechanical fan, go full electric fans, i recommend using 2 hi speed taurus ones, (the taurus has 2, main and aux, main pulls more air than aux, get 2 main fans) - give the tranny its own cooler and don´t put it in front of the radiator geez... - it may sound stupid but, have you cleaned the condenser and radiator? dirt can cripple a radiator and last but not least, if you run the AC at max all the time while driving in a hot enviroment and stopped at a red light, the engine is very likely to get a little hotter than usual...

the radiator, where you put the thermo switch for the efan...

thermostat housing...

yes, and with a ton of miles on them... i could use the crossmember anyway.. i have seen 2, one was already being scrapped...

looks like it´s getting too much fuel...

1- the fusebox is a good place as any 2- 10 ga 3- put a solenoid, don´t run the fan through the switch

and i though mine was rusted...

cars became disposable when they put computers in them... i like the ZJs better than the XJ except for the drivetrain, if i can swap engine, tranny, transfer case and differentials from an Xj to a ZJ i´ll be great, as for pick up i would kill for a J10/J20 but my i´ll definitly keep my MJ, they gonna bury me with it

never mind, the EVO is not a screw-in part, the pumps are diferent, and kind rare to find, specially the EVO solenoid... i gonna have to improvise here

i don´t know if it has to be ordered or came with some trims, but the EVO only appears in WJ V8s, it´s just relevant at highway speeds so i bet only 2WD models had them. i did that. there´s little to no play in the steering wheel.

bent pushrods? in an old engine like that i won't expected to be still straight, a small gap can make suck click noise...

i did adjust the box a bit, almost no play there. do the WJ pump fit a renix block? or do i need the bracket and everything attached to it...?

i replaceds some worn bushings quiten the opposite, the steering pump is working, i need it to STOP working gradually at speeds higher than 35 mph... apparently V8 WJs come with an EVO (electronicly variable orifice) it threads between the pump and the high pressure hose, now all i need is a circuit to turnit on-off depending on output shaft speed... piece of cake