jimoshel

Go to Google search. Type in Steel cable swage. and/or steel cable repair. You'll get enough results to keep you reading the whole week end. Basically it is using a steel ring slipped over the cable and squeezed with many tons of pressure. There are sleeves that will accept the cable twice, that is you slide the sleeve, or ferrule, over the cable. Then slide the end of the cable into it. Squeeze. You now have a loop. Take a end fitting, looks like a fishing weight. Crimp it on the end of the cable. You now have a stop. I've got a couple winches in the shop that needs fixed. I'm going to try and get to them today. Stay tuned.

All right! Congrats! :thumbsup:

I have seen as many as 4 clamps on a cable and it still pulled out. Not on a spare tire winch but still steel cable. You have to tie a knot in the cable and then use a clamp to tie the end. A steel Nico sleeve works much better but has to be properly installed. Also don't see how the reel can work without those clamps catching or binding on something, plus rubbing against the cable. It may work for awhile but in my opinion very Mickey Mouse. Just get a new cable and swage the ends. Do it right or don't do it at all.

Just a wild guess, Pic 17 is a WWll USO group. Pic 18 is a Chevy commercial for '61 Chevies. Pic 25 you turn it upside down and get a different set of faces.

:agree: I've done it twice. If you don't have the equipment for swaging the fitting then take it to a shop. It's still cheaper than buying one. Or if you really want $45 shipped. And it'll be rusty.

It keeps double quoting and I can't delete one of them.

Agrees 100%

I haven't been to a regular junk yard in so long I can't remember when the last time was. Think it was '97 or '98. P&P is a different story. Jeff and Ed are the 2 guys behind the counter, Kenny is the yard honcho. Pete and Kris are the yard men. And they all know my name. On several occasions I've sold them parts. We have a good relationship. When I get a low ball offer it kind of depends on several factors how I respond. How long has the ad been running? How many responses have I gotten on it? How did they word, phrase the offer? My response will be a counter offer. No thanks. Get F*cked. When I respond to a ad it depends on what their selling and How bad I want it. I always make sure I have the cash so if I make a offer and they accept it's a done deal. If it's a MJ I will get it now If it's a XJ, WJ or ZJ I will make an offer of less than they're asking but I will give them a time span of 1-2 weeks for them to sell it at their price. If they don't then call me.Biggest thing I've found is be nice, polite to people, which is extremely difficult for me,

"87 MJ. 2.5, AX4, 2WD. DD. About a month ago it made one little klunk. Slowly got more often and louder. Narrowed it down to the right front. By ear. Sometimes will do it by changing speed but not often. Most noticeable on a bump or rough road. All indications are a bad , loose shock mount. Jacked it up, both front wheels off the ground. Crawled underneath with a 3ft pry bar. Pried on every joint under it. Both ends all 3 control arms, both ends track bar, Tie rod end, joints, pitman arm, steering box mounting, Both shocks, the little shock absorber going from engine to frame. Nothing. Everything nice, tight, solid. Maybe an 1/8 inch vertical movement on left front tire. Right tire solid. No bearing noise when spinning tire. What gives? Any ideas? Is definitely a metallic klunk.

I thought about taking a piece of cardboard and making a template. He also wants the metal fittings to see if he can fabricate them.

Steve, aram1500, needs a back panel from a MJ for a pattern so he can reproduce them. I have agreed to send him one. Just checked on shipping and the best I can find is UPS for $56. Isn't there anyone closer to Monroe Ga that can lend him one?

Make sure you clean those parts up real good before sticking them back together with JB Weld. Otherwise they won't hold.

Then why did you ask my location? It's in my avatar, under the pic.

Comanche aficionado Members 324 posts LocationCollege station texas Posted 17 October 2012 - 12:52 PM I have a custom made drive shaft that came on my comanche when I bought it. It's was to short for my lift still, so I just did a sye and had a new Tom wood drive shaft made. So now this one is up for sale to recoup some of the cost. Specs: 41 1/2 inches from center to center. It is Aluminum Takes 1310 ujoints I believe. I believe it would be perfect for a auto 4x4 comanche with about 4.5 inches of lift. I highly suggest measuring to see the length you need first. 100$ plus shipping obo If you have any questions or want more measurements please ask. 1988 Comanche Pioneer/SWB/4.0/Auto/converted to 4x4/ Np231 Quote MultiQuote Report

If your in San Fran get on US50 and follow it East for 1400 miles. You'll be in my back yard.

1990MJ, 150K, $1500. Pick it up on your way to Texas.

Location? I'm looking for a '92.

Somebody put a lot of work and effort into decorating it. Great job.

Should have used the duct tape.

First before you go throwing money away find out for sure where it's leaking.

A couple years ago while making my 287th parachute jump I had the unfortunate luck to have an equipment malfunction. Exited the aircraft at 20,000ft. At 18,000ft I noticed the left hand riser bracket was broken. Realizing that panic would be fruitless I remained calm and assessed my options. Fortunately in my 'always prepared' emergency kit bag was a J-B Weld package. I rapidly mixed a batch and 'welded' the bracket back together.Unfortunately the weld didn't have sufficient time to set before hitting the ground and I wound up breaking every bone in my bod. Using my first aid training I was able to patch myself together long enough to walk the 45 miles to the hospital where I received the necessary medical treatment I needed for full recovery. :thumbsup:

Always thought the super bowl was a extra large toilet for peeps that were really full of it. :idea:

I would be cleaning first before replacing. Sockets, grounds, lens plugs, etc. Often amazing what removing the ground screw, use emery, sand paper, brillo pad, on the surface and connector will do.

Well, Damn. Got me on that one. Must have been the reason. :doh:

Now that's what I want.