jimoshel

It was the starter, solenoid. Both of them. The fact that it was the first thing I checked and they worked threw me off. It wasn't until I was thoroughly pissed and went back and started rechecking everything that I found it.

Coors or Bud. Elk, deer, bear when in season. Women when the previous 3 species are out of season.

Are you looking for a Jeep specific column or a GM? I have done a couple GM columns into Jeeps, and others, but always with a standard tran. Never done an auto. I have a '87 MJ with a auto trans and column shift and I have a couple GM columns out. I can take some pics, and measurements if you want.

1990 MJ, 4.0. AX15, 2WD. A new one I picked up a couple weeks ago. Ran great the first week. Took about 4 seconds on the starter before starting but always started. Then it began getting hard to start. Acted just like the battery going dead. When I would jump start it or hook the battery charger up, it fired up. Ran good the rest of the day. Then when I would go out of a morning the battery would be dead. Then it quit turning over when I used the ign sw. I can take a wire and run it from the pos bat term direct to the starter it turns over good and fires right up. Voltage across the battery, when running, 14.5VDC. Remove the ign term from the starter relay, insert a test light, turn the key to 'start' and the light comes on. Hook the wire back to the relay and nothing. Ran a load test on the battery, OK. Ran alternator into a dummy load, works OK. When I test each component individually they work great. When I hook everything back up, nothing. Checked for battery drain to ground, a couple ma's. Swapped battery, no change. Checked, cleaned, tightened every connection I could find in the circuit. Ran a wire direct from bat pos to ign ter on relay. Worked. Despite that I'm thinking it might be the relay. I don't have a spare one to swap. The '90 has 4 terminals on it. '86-'89 only has 3. Getting ready to head for town and get another relay. 'til then, anybody got any ideas? :fs1: :hmm: :???: Edit; Just found out. The 4th terminal is for the fuel pump ballast resister.

I refuse to own a piece of equipment that's smarter than I am. I don't have a smart phone. Doing good just to have a regular ol' cell phone, which I'm still trying to figure out how to use. :hmm:

Confirmed. The transmission is a T5 and it and the TC is from a 1985 S10. I had my doubts about the T5 being strong enough to back a diesel. The tranny and TC had been moved backed approx. 5 inches. Notice the modified driveshaft.

Doggy,, with a shop like that, why stop with just a bumper. Make yerself another MJ. Good job. :thumbsup:

I have a set of the frame mounts. No wheel well backing plates. Just the frame mounts. They're still on the truck and there's no way I'm going out there with a foot of snow on the ground and 0 degrees to remove them. Let me know if interested and when it warms up we'll see.

Could anybody tell if those screws were counter rotating or not? I really couldn't tell but I think they were. I've got a bunch of screws used for loading wheat, corn into silos. Just may be,,,,,,,,,,,,

Being in Maine, consider yourself lucky that it ever warms up. Otherwise I would say 10 minutes, you should feel heat from the vent.

A couple years ago I stuck a '72 Caddillac steering column into a '75 CJ5. Was pretty much a bolt in. Had to fabricate one brace on the dash left hand side. I took four pics. For some reason this is the only one came out.

Finally got around to doing some clean up. It looks like the guy cut the two bell housings in half and then welded them back together. Looks like a Chevy S10 T5. Neat welds. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Right now I'm in the process of building a test jig so I can start and run it. Just see what it'l do. Hope it doesn't smoke or rattle to bad.

and win a free trip around the world, you pay all expenses. When I Googled the sticker number, WG 13-52-043 it said it is from a 1985 S10. making it a T5. I find that hard to believe. Can any one confirm?

Would 88,000 work??

Tnx for sharing. Loved it. :thumbsup:

I was ready to leave at half time but the GF pointed there was a pizza left so I suffered thru the the whole nauseating farce.

Dream on...Never happen..

If you swap the whole front clip it will change over no problem. However the bolts, studs mounting the header to the fenders is different. On the '86 the studs are fastened to the header and the nut is on the inside of the fender. On the '88 the studs are fastened to the front of the fender and the nuts can be accessed after removing the headlligt trim. No biggy and easily modified.

When was the last time you pulled out your bed liner and took a look at your bed? Sure glad Colorado is a dry state. Would hate to think of the condition this bed would be in if more moisture had gotten underneath the liner. Think I caught it in time. A little clean up, some paint, be OK. Curious as to how many of you are going to take a look at yours after seeing his.

Collectable hell. I'm still using mine, and they're in a lot cleaner shape than those two.

I always store all my excessive explosive devices in the rear bumper. Keep them as far away from the cab as I can.

If the bumper tool box is so great, why does he have a regular one in the bed? :dunno:

It came off a late model S10. When I saw the ad I measured my bed and then called the guy and asked him ti measure his topper. Was a 3/8 inch difference in length and 1/8 inch diff in width. Figured that was close enough. Duct tape, Bondo will solve any cosmetic problems. :yes:

I'm with you. If he can get $5K for that one, I'm loading up a couple and heading for NJ.

What is it about the 2.5? I have a '87, '88, '89 and a '90 2.5. I would rotate between driving them. I recently started driving a '90 4.0. I prefer any of the 2.5 to the 4.0. How come? Is this how cults are started?