Tex06

Do you have gauges? Those help too. I have everything to convert mine from rockauto, ran me about $400 for new lines and a 134a compressor. Do we have an orifice to pull like the chevy's of the 80s?

Did the 4 bangers come with an AX-15 like the 4.0? If so, it's an easy enough task to pull the tranny as a spare.... Also, did you get the VIN by chance to put in the registry? Edit: Nvm, saw it said "4" not "5" speed....reading comprehension is not me strong suit.

Now that the NSS issue is resolved/in the process of, have you had a chance to TS the no-start? I'm thinking CPS as mentioned above, although I would swap out coil first as it's an easier test (using a known good from the XJ)..

No, I actually don't have a write-up on it. However, I did watch a video from NickInTimeFilms, seen here at the 7:48 mark. https://youtu.be/mkrAG7gakPg?t=468 I also bought a valve spring compressor tool, seen in the above video. Coincidentally, it's the same shown in the Haynes Repair manual that I also referenced. This is it here: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N322TG/ Lastly, the valve stem part numbers are as follows: Mahle/Victor Reinz B45798 (INTAKE valves) & Mahle/Victor Reinz B45799 (EXHAUST valves). I'd like to note one thing. If you don't want to remove the head, you don't have to. They make a hose adapter that you can screw into the spark plug hole that pressurizes the cylinder with an air compressor. It prevents the valves from dropping down into your cylinder. I would also suggest manually turning the crank to where the cylinder you're working on is at TDC. That should be double insurance. Or, you could likely do it that way without the use of air pressure. That air hose adapter is seen here: https://smile.amazon.com/Lisle-19700-Valve-Holder/dp/B000COC7ZU Thanks! I've got an old spark plug I saved to braze an air fitting to just for this purpose (did it before with a Chevy small block). Just wanted to make sure the process was relatively the same.

Awesome, glad to hear you got it fixed! I picked up a set of valve stem seals for my '92 a few weeks back, you wouldn't happen to have a write-up for the procedure would ya? I use just a tiny bit of oil now and I'm thinking (with 213k on it) my original seals are probably shot.

Haha, the 2.1 uses the same fuel filter as the 6.2L Chevy diesel.

Also, I think the conversion to external cost me about $100 for the slave/master (bought if off Amazon if I remember correctly) and the transmission pieces were free from pull-a-part (paid $79.95 + $25 core charge for tranny and transfer case. Left them bolted together and they only charged me for a tranny, sold the NP321 for $100 locally, kept the transmission pieces I needed and sold my old AX-15 for $150).

Your driveline has inherent friction in it. The slight incline is to give the possibly worn and not fully disengaging clutch a chance to overcome those friction forces. The surface you do it on matters too, put your truck in neutral on a smooth concrete surface (like a finished garage) and crawl underneath, spin the driveshaft by hand and see if the truck moves. Then do the same thing on asphalt or dirt. The point I'm trying to make is you want the truck to roll as freely as possible so you can be 100% sure it's not a clutch issue. Another thing is, I don't know your driving style, but make sure you are pressing the clutch in to the same level when shifting as you are in this test. If you fully depress the clutch while testing but don't quite push it in all the way in day to day driving, that could also lead to the gears grinding from a non-fully disengaged clutch. Hope this helps!

I ran 703s from the junkyard in mine for a while. Stock '92 4.0L, had no issues. Only changed them out because I mistakenly thought I was having a fuel delivery issue. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Have you installed one? Got it, not installed yet. Rambo is getting the DD treatment currently so the header, intake, valve seals, and brake booster are all on hold. Did get new tires though! :D And still looking for a unichip. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Any pictures for us illiterate folk? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Means it is close. If you really want to check, find a *slight* incline and put the truck on it and do the same test. My clutch currently isn't fully disengaging (because I'm an idiot and misinstalled it) and I have to put it on an incline to get any movement. Also, note where the clutch "grabs". Is it near the top of the pedal movement or in the bottom? A worn clutch that isn't fully disengaging, imo, could be the culprit. And no, there is zero advantage to internal slave except more complicated and potential for problems down the road. Whoever told you that line let you far astray. If there are any issues with the external, not only is it easier/cheaper to replace and troubleshoot, it also won't potentially leave you with fluid on your clutch disc.

The AX-15 is pretty easy to rebuild although personally it sounds like your clutch isn't fully disengaging anymore. I would recommend swapping to a new external slave and see if it fixes the issue before investing in a new tranny. Fwiw, I rebuilt my AX-15 a few months ago and upgraded to an external swap. Spent a little more than I wanted but came in around $500 if I recall. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Actually, I really like the headliner look. Seeing as I wear a cowboy hat most days, the extra clearance would be welcome. The light you mounted, does it function the same as the B pillar lights in that you can turn it on separate and it comes on when the doors open/headlamp dimmer switch is operated or is it just one or the other?

Yessir..thats your taillights alright :yes: Damn they cleaned up nice. I saw a "how-to" on Facebook the other day on polishing then masking off the edges for black paint and an overall coat of clear afterwards. I'm guessing that's what you did?

Those the taillights I sold you?

While you have it apart go with a 99+ Intake! Well worth the upgrade!

Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but I'm in Baton Rouge and very interested in how this turned out.

Is "Jeep" spelled out in electrical tape? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Lincoln started with the behind the license plate if I recall correctly. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

I switched to the 94 and up distributor quite awhile ago in my 91 so I can't help with the older 91-93 distributor parts. The newer distributor is more maintenance friendly. Taylor 8mm wires are excellent, good choice. Yep did this too. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

I went with a MOPAR tune up kit off ebay. Was about $70 for rotor, cap, and wires. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Something identical to this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1993-95-Jeep-Grand-Cherokee-Fuel-Injectors-4-0L-Modern-Bosch-Ultimate-Upgrade-/192094886132?hash=item2cb9bf58f4 I originally pulled a set from a Dodge Neon in the junk yard....I think I ended up selling those back to the ebay seller for credit.

Check your map sensor voltages. I was having issues with mine and when the MAP sensor was disconnected it took a while to catch. When I upgraded my injectors it helped with my starts some, fwiw. I believe there's also a known issue with the fuel pump or regulator tending to let gas go back into the tank when they start to fail but don't quote me on that. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Thanks cruiser. If that's the one that commonly has velcro on it, I have one (maybe 2)in my spare parts pile. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk