Tex06

A good place to start is here: http://comancheclub.com/index.php?/topic/13447-What-is-the-most-important-tip-you'd-share-with-MJ-owners? You have a Renix motor which is different from the '91-92 4.0L. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Because Chrysler didn't design it that way! [emoji14] In all honesty, as long as it doesn't over tighten it should be an improvement. Too tight and it will accelerate wear on the whole timing set. Where that happy medium is is anyone's guess though. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Can we say "duh" at this point? Lol, in all honesty the whole trip has been awesome to watch. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Maybe someone else can chime in but I'd do the master/slave combo from a 94+, clutch from the same year, and a '90 flywheel.

Damn, I guess I'm the only one who prefers the bench. My dog also likes it so he can stretch out. But then again, my ideal seat is the bench from an old Chevy truck. Can't be beat! Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

If your synchros are shot, you can still shift into gear easily when the truck is not running. Just fyi. I think the clutch is suspect. Not fully disengaging, could be a reused flywheel, worn clutch, or slave/ master issues. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

So if I go 3.73, I can use same carrier, correct? And I'll need a new carrier for the D30HP up front I believe. Edit: I'd like to buy this kit if it'll do both front and rear. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aly-360027/overview/ Or Revolution has a similar kit for $435 with thick gears for the D44 and a carrier for the D30. Any thoughts on either?

I'm seeing that. The instructions are pretty clear on which way they want them to face though. The engineer in me wants to know why they specified the decal forward instead of just "match orientation to OE". The only difference in operation I see would be slightly lower stance and a possibilty of "bottoming out" if the springs were severely flexed. And as Don pointed out, yes you would be able to grease them which is a big deal for me. Unless someone can point out something I missed, I think they'll stay in this configuration. At least until I start going skyward with the suspension :D

According to JKS they're correct. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Ahaha....I'm not surprised. From what I read on your link, it looks like the F-150 shackles are 4.4" center to center (which is about 1/8" longer than stock) putting my shackles about 5/8" longer than the originals. If installed correctly, any idea what this correlates to in vertical inches? I'm thinking not much...

Center to center is 5". Thanks Eagle. I knew one of those number sets was it. Does the shackle height directly equal lift height?

Was under the rear end today changing the rear end fluid and had questions. It looks like I have small lift shackles (That's what they're called I think) from JKS. Any idea how much these are giving me back here? The rear bumper is attached to these shackles.... is this stock? I'm leaning towards no. And finally, wanted to confirm that I have stock 3.07 gearing. D44 rear end, have the tag but it's pretty trashed. Here's the ring gear though:

Who says "get a biggah hammah!" doesn't fix anything? :D

http://www.phoenixfriction.com/p-30095-fw554-flywheel-jeep-25l.aspx Hope that helps! Edit: Might not, didn't realize the '91+ was a different flywheel design

Lol, esp since now you could put a sweet REM in it. Seriously the only reason I want a Renix.

Do you have gauges? Those help too. I have everything to convert mine from rockauto, ran me about $400 for new lines and a 134a compressor. Do we have an orifice to pull like the chevy's of the 80s?

Did the 4 bangers come with an AX-15 like the 4.0? If so, it's an easy enough task to pull the tranny as a spare.... Also, did you get the VIN by chance to put in the registry? Edit: Nvm, saw it said "4" not "5" speed....reading comprehension is not me strong suit.

Now that the NSS issue is resolved/in the process of, have you had a chance to TS the no-start? I'm thinking CPS as mentioned above, although I would swap out coil first as it's an easier test (using a known good from the XJ)..

No, I actually don't have a write-up on it. However, I did watch a video from NickInTimeFilms, seen here at the 7:48 mark. https://youtu.be/mkrAG7gakPg?t=468 I also bought a valve spring compressor tool, seen in the above video. Coincidentally, it's the same shown in the Haynes Repair manual that I also referenced. This is it here: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N322TG/ Lastly, the valve stem part numbers are as follows: Mahle/Victor Reinz B45798 (INTAKE valves) & Mahle/Victor Reinz B45799 (EXHAUST valves). I'd like to note one thing. If you don't want to remove the head, you don't have to. They make a hose adapter that you can screw into the spark plug hole that pressurizes the cylinder with an air compressor. It prevents the valves from dropping down into your cylinder. I would also suggest manually turning the crank to where the cylinder you're working on is at TDC. That should be double insurance. Or, you could likely do it that way without the use of air pressure. That air hose adapter is seen here: https://smile.amazon.com/Lisle-19700-Valve-Holder/dp/B000COC7ZU Thanks! I've got an old spark plug I saved to braze an air fitting to just for this purpose (did it before with a Chevy small block). Just wanted to make sure the process was relatively the same.

Awesome, glad to hear you got it fixed! I picked up a set of valve stem seals for my '92 a few weeks back, you wouldn't happen to have a write-up for the procedure would ya? I use just a tiny bit of oil now and I'm thinking (with 213k on it) my original seals are probably shot.

Haha, the 2.1 uses the same fuel filter as the 6.2L Chevy diesel.

Also, I think the conversion to external cost me about $100 for the slave/master (bought if off Amazon if I remember correctly) and the transmission pieces were free from pull-a-part (paid $79.95 + $25 core charge for tranny and transfer case. Left them bolted together and they only charged me for a tranny, sold the NP321 for $100 locally, kept the transmission pieces I needed and sold my old AX-15 for $150).

Your driveline has inherent friction in it. The slight incline is to give the possibly worn and not fully disengaging clutch a chance to overcome those friction forces. The surface you do it on matters too, put your truck in neutral on a smooth concrete surface (like a finished garage) and crawl underneath, spin the driveshaft by hand and see if the truck moves. Then do the same thing on asphalt or dirt. The point I'm trying to make is you want the truck to roll as freely as possible so you can be 100% sure it's not a clutch issue. Another thing is, I don't know your driving style, but make sure you are pressing the clutch in to the same level when shifting as you are in this test. If you fully depress the clutch while testing but don't quite push it in all the way in day to day driving, that could also lead to the gears grinding from a non-fully disengaged clutch. Hope this helps!

I ran 703s from the junkyard in mine for a while. Stock '92 4.0L, had no issues. Only changed them out because I mistakenly thought I was having a fuel delivery issue. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Have you installed one? Got it, not installed yet. Rambo is getting the DD treatment currently so the header, intake, valve seals, and brake booster are all on hold. Did get new tires though! :D And still looking for a unichip. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk