Tex06

Oh yeah. 9-3 in bowl games. Which conference is the strongest this year?

Some of the worst officiating I've ever seen, but I agree. One of the best games I've ever seen. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Just caught up. You need my email address? ;) Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Uh ohhhh.... Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Nope. Saw the targeting hits against Mike Williams that weren't called though.... Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

We watching the same game? I'm lagging but I'm 5 minutes in and still 0-0? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Didn't your momma ever tell you about chickens? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

It's new as stated in the first post.

Ahhh....I've got an old Snap-On scanner. I need to see about getting the right cartridge for the XJ/MJ. Even have the chrysler cables already!

T-9 hours 51 minutes!

Ok, I lost 1st so I decided it was time to update to an external slave setup. After getting a junkyark AX-15 out of a '96 XJ I rebuilt it, installed with a new clutch/pressure plate, external slave, new master cylinder (as mine was leaking) and reused the line from the JY parts I pulled. Also new flywheel (for a '92 Jeep MJ). My issue is: In 1st and reverse gears, my clutch is slipping and I can smell it burning immediately after I stop. 2nd-5th seem ok, although I haven't gone to a parking lot yet and "punched it" in 3rd or 4th to see if the rpms raise without the speed doing the same. Any ideas as to what it could be? I pre-bled the master/slave setup before I installed it and have only driven maybe 20 miles with it so far (to work and back). Pedal feels ok, engage might be a little high, might not be (close to the top of the stroke, usually when I replace a clutch in vehicles it moves down to the floor). I can drive it right now, I was planning on putting 50-100 miles on the clutch and see if it "seats" but I've never had a vehicle do this to me before. Summary: New: External slave Master Cylinder Clutch pressure plate Clutch friction disc throw out bearing pilot bearing flywheel rebuilt tranny Old: Master cylinder/slave line Transfer case Rest of truck pretty much

Very cool, this is very similar to the DashHawk I run in my MazdaSpeed 3.....just lets me monitor things and when sensors start to go, you can track them down before the completely $h1T the bed, lol. Does such an animal exist for the HO motors? I would be very interested in one (Don, you can come back now....)

Tomato, tomato^^^ [emoji55] You two are great. :D Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Great to hear! Hopefully the repairs go smoother than the appraisal. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

'07? They had the Internet back then? [emoji14] Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

I guess what I'm wondering is will my 92 have the wires for it and I just need to add the switches or whole door with electronics? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Best thing I've found for this. On a weekend (or whenever you don't drive it much is), go to wally world and buy yourself 2-3 cans of their cheapest engine degreaser (about $12 for 3) and a small nylon brush for scrubbing, with a long handle. Park near water hose (engine can be hot or cold, I like it warm but not just finished driving hot. Helps break down the grease IMO) and pop the hood. Disconnect the battery and hose that block down with degreaser, top to bottom and even underneath. Tranny too if it needs it. Wait 10-15 min, and spray off with a hose (no pressure washer, too much chance of forcing water into places it doesn't belong. Repeat 2-3-4 times or until the engine looks clean, use the brush to break up "gunk" in the crevices that's built way up. Depending on how clean this gets your engine you can even wipe it down afterwards with degreaser and shoot paint on it if ya like (won't be a professional looking job but it will stop the now bare metal from rusting up on ya if the original paint is missing). Once the engine is clean, LET IT DRY! Don't hook the battery up for at least a few hours until the motor is dried off. Then take it for a short drive to warm it up and get the rest of the moisture out. Park it again and inspect for oil. Should be easy to find any leaks, use your hands and feel around the back. Also can park it over cardboard at night to see if you have any drips while it sits. If none are located, do longer and longer drives until either it does show up or you're convinced it's not there anymore.

Wait, you have electronics in your door? That not very jeep-like! ;) Good job troubleshooting! Are you adding pw/pl or just upgrading? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Or use about 3 ft of extension! I installed mine seperate and while it was all 4 tires (no jack stands), easy easy!!!

I did a full tear down of my driver's side door last year but can't find the pics (if I took any of the MJ....I did my '86 K30 at the same time and found those, lol). My window was getting hard to roll up and down and my key wouldn't always unlock the door. It's about a 2 hour job to tear down the door, pull the window glass and then latch and lock mechanisms. I used a wire brush and some brake cleaner to get all the old black gunk and grease off of the mechanism, then relubed with a can of spray white lithium grease from Wal-Mart (about $3). Put everything together then didn't do the passenger side....and now I'm having window issues over there. All in all, shouldn't take longer than an afternoon. Note about the windows: If the window is hard to roll up, pop off the handle and see if the stem wiggles. If so you need a new regulator, there's nothing to be done to fix that that I'm aware of. Pulling the regulator is a little bit of a PITA, it's riveted in place. I bought the biggest rivet gun Harbor Freight had (looks like a pair of bolt cutters) and some spare rivets (they were the 2nd biggest ones I believe, maybe 1/4" or 5/16"?). I also greased the chain inside of the regulator with a spray graphite dry lube meant for bicycle chains I had. Other than drilling out the rivets, this was a super easy job! 2nd Note: Now that I think about it, I used a dremel with a cut-off wheel to get the rivets out....1/2 were easy and drilled right out, 1/2 had a stainless center and would just spin when I tried to drill them.

I couldn't do Renix Rules.....My MJ is one of the few that's NEWER than Dons! :D

He'll take $18.50 for them. ^^^^

I'll buy it for $1!

Hell I shoulda bet you had to put "Bama Sux!" on your little pickup in the tagline until next season!

Check your grounds. If you have access to a multimeter, pull your light bulbs and test the socket for continuity to ground and for +12V while someone is pressing the brake pedal, flasher on, brake and flasher on. Then post what you're getting here and someone can probably help you out :) Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk