Tex06

By satin coat do you mean satin paint or something like POR-15? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Street signs also aren't the most malleable of aluminum alloys either. If there's a junkyard nearby, you can get a deck lid (trunk lid) for pretty cheap and with a set of tinsnips, you'll have a good amount of metal. Or a hood, just whatever is flattest. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Pull a junkyard dizzy and swap it in. Easy troubleshooting, esp if the Renix motors use the same dizzy as the HO. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

That's what I was looking for, a creative, affordable solution. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

I ordered 2 sets, one for the MJ, one for the XJ. I'll take some pics and post them up when they get here. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

If you're having issues, a cheap gasket is better to replace rather than spend days chasing your tail. Normally I reuse them, but if troubleshooting ask yourself how much time will you spend if they are the problem and you overlooked it somehow this go around? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

The guy I just posted about, Mean Lemons. My alternator wiring was pretty bad when I replaced my alt for a 137A unit from a dodge pickup.

Inline fuses too? This is a set of 7 cables (all grounds, battery, and alternator cabling) with inline fuses, not just the two battery cables.

I was at harbor freight pricing hydraulic crimp tools yesterday and have been calling around the local welding shops to get used leads for the past week. Glad I could help!

Started a new thread on this rather than hijack my own (sorry guys, I'm still trying to get my own problems fixed!) I emailed Neal and found him on another forum, all full of pictures and stuff since everyone will want to see what they're buying before they lay down the $$$. Everything I've seen looks like high quality, well built stuff that's solidly crimped, and at a reasonable price. I'm getting a set of 4ga wires to try and get my bugs sorted out (after I clean the pins like Hornbrod suggested on the 60 pin connector) and will let ya'll know here how things work out. These look almost identical to the old Kelly's WIP (or 5-90 cables) stuff and the price is hard to beat. Here's that link for those who learn best through pictures: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f73/upgraded-battery-cables-221513/ And his email: MeanLemons@gmail.com

This stuff is much much smaller. Plus it connects to the back of the ac controls...a thick rubber hose I'd have to change out fittings and enlarge the hole in the firewall I think. I had seen someone found an industrial plastic hose that works, but can't seem to locate that thread. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

They don't carry the correct size. It's a hard plastic line not rubber vacuum tube. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Thanks Cruiser! Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Ouch. $115 plus shipping on rock auto. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Damn, even without any extra load (lights, winch, stereo, etc)? I was trying to get a set of pre-made wires but it's looking like I'll be buying a hydraulic crimper and making my own. Anyone have gauges/ lengths needed by chance? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Anybody got a part number or link for replacement vacuum tube for the heater? The stuff that runs from under the dash thru the firewall and to the actuator for the heater. Mine's all cracked and falling apart. Winter is coming. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Well, I burned up an alternator. Picture attached. I've had the issue still come and go, although tonight I had a possible breakthrough. Replaced the alt with the 130A dodge truck one and ground down my bracket to make it fit. Old one is clearly shot. Read somewhere that a bad negative connection on the battery can cause alt failure, so cleaned and retightened my negative post (didn't really tighten, the cable end is shot). Issue came back with a vengeance. Fought it all day today and half of yesterday. Tonight, moved my negative cable on battery post and problem was instantly better (not solved but better it seemed on the test drive). Going to keep trying this as a "fix" until I can replace the cable with a heavier gauge one. Side note: as my alternator was dying, I kept getting a tps engine code (24 I believe. Tps voltage out of range). I've replaced this thing 3 times this year with napa or Mopar parts after reading 4.89vDC @ idle. Think this is relevant? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

NSS needs to be replaced. Shouldn't be a big deal or very expensive, never done one in a jeep but done plenty in GM and Ford applications. Usually takes less than 30 minutes and $30. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Have you done the cruiser tips for ground refreshing yet? These things are notorious for electrical bugs. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Put it in neutral and try it. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Mechanical engineer for a welding firm. Feels good to have a paycheck again!

Around town it was smooth as butter, I could do everything with one finger. It was only on the extended trips at highways speeds that I noticed the heat and 5->4 shift was just a little notchy.

"An oil can be trusted to be "yellow-metal friendly" if it adheres to GL-4 standards." The valvoline I used is classified as 1B. I think it'll be OK even though it's a GL-4/GL-5 lubricant. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2554764

Tranny needs a rebuild anyway. The GL-5 was much cheaper than anything else. It's staying for now, I know people that have run it for years without issues. I have a junkyard tranny that's going in in the next few weeks while I rebuild this one. It'll probably get GL-5 for cost reasons too.

Some observations on gearbox oil. Bought my MJ with 202k on the clock,ran it for 3k before I started having issues with the transmission kicking out of 1st when shifting into it from a stop. Figured I'd try a fluid flush and see if there's any change, so I swapped it for Mobil 1 10w-30 full synthetic motor oil. This has been recommended many places online as modern GL-4 and GL-5 gear oils are not brass friendly. My notes from this: As soon as I swapped in the Mobil 1 I noticed shifts were easier, felt "slick". Didn't help or hurt the shifting issue at first. Did notice on long highway trips 2 things. 1. The shifter handle got much warmer to the point of being too hot to comfortably grab at the shifter joint. 2. After an hour or so at highway speeds, downshifting from 5 to 4 was difficult. It would feel like it "hung" in 5th. Annoying, esp when the rest of the gears (except 1st ) were so slick. After about 3000 miles the problems have gotten worse. 1st gear is almost unusable, and periodically it kicks out of 2nd when downshifting (never on the upshift). Figured my tranny needed a rebuild anyway so I swapped fluids again, this time to a GL-4/ GL-5 fluid 80w-90, conventional. Notes on this: Drove straight from Atlanta to Baton Rouge (about 8.5 hours of highway time). Most notable was the lack of heat on the shifter handle followed by the ease of downshifting from 5-4. Major improvement there. The rest of the gears weren't quite as "slick" feeling but nothing felt notchy or stiff. Once I got to BR, my around town driving was improved. 1st is still finicky but usable and I longer get kicked out of 2nd when downshifting. Tranny still needs a rebuild, but I'm convinced now that motor oil belongs in the motor and I'll risk sulphur eating my synchros over friction for sure damaging things. Last note, my gas mileage on this trip (Atl-BR, Sept) averaged 19.4 mpg loaded over 2 tanks. My last trip with the Mobil 1 (BR-ATL, May) averaged 17.7 mpg with an empty truck. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk