Tex06

Yep, looks cross threaded because of the angle and when I installed the new one, I did get a few brass shavings.... Probably should have cleaned the hole with a tap but it's in and no leaking. Seriously though, clean that ground with the sensor out. Much easier than having to dig back there again. Also to get the connector off the sensor I found it easiest to squeeze the narrow ends of the connector. I don't know if mine was missing a release lever but be careful not to crack the connector if you use pliers.

Long 1/4" extension with a wobble tip on it. Best investment I ever made after working on old Datsuns. Made getting the CPS in/out much easier....but tape over the hole!!!

I contacted John from KellysWIP on a cable set for some old heads and other 4.0 H.O. parts I've got, he's swamped right now but is going to get back to me when things slow down. The lack of grounding on these things is almost laughable. Makes me wonder how many jeeps were scrapped because of a little corrosion in the wrong place. Literally a free fix if you have a few tools.

I had read that....I think I'll be cleaning all of my grounds this weekend and redoing others if I can track down my electrical stuff. Those things in the Tips could BE your "electrical stuff". Electrical stuff was wire, crimpers, heat shrink, terminal ends, et. al. Basically all my electrical tools except my multimeter because that stays in my toolbox. Went to clean all my grounds (Big thanks to Cruiser54 for pointing me in this direction!) and while getting to the one on the firewall-cylinder head, discovered my temperature switch was broken. Like fell apart broken. Don't know how in the hell I missed that. Test drove down to auto parts store with cleaned grounds (fuel tank and aforementioned cylinder head) and it was still acting up on me. Got back to the house, pulled everything apart again and put in the new coolant temp switch and she runs like a champ (for now). Idle isn't quite right, it kicks up and down like the A/C compressor is switching on (It's not connected currently) so I'm going to replace a few more vacuum lines and hunt for leaks but I was able to drive to work today without issues. Tanner, I'd check your temperature switch (cost me $20 from Carquest/Advance). The white epoxy that acts as a thermistor gets old and cracks with age. It's a PITA to get to but that would explain the temperature related aspects of the issue. While you're back there (I removed my fuel rail to get to the switch), CLEAN THAT GROUND! 11/16" Wrench, PB'laster, and a wire brush.

I had read that....I think I'll be cleaning all of my grounds this weekend and redoing others if I can track down my electrical stuff.

Another baby step forward and then a few more back: Got the jeep ready for a test and was watching my new electronic fuel pressure gauge, it's reading a solid 32-33 psi. Pop the hood to make sure no leaks, etc and notice I had left the fuel press regulator unhooked from earlier so I plug it back in and the fuell pressure reading just go all over the place, just crazy up and down at idle and even when blipping the throttle. Verify that disconnected the reading is steady, even drops slightly upon hitting gas. Ok, bad fuel regulator. SHouldn't have swapped in one from the JY but hey, I at least had ordered a new Standard unit and I pop it in (Really I fight with the damn thing for 10 minutes before soaking it in 15W-40 and then popping it in). Fuel pressure now holds steady, slightly increases with throttle (less vacuum....more fuel press.) Idle pressure reads 25psi. Go to back up and I notice that the "pressure" drops to 12 psi when I apply the brakes. So now my question is, where is the best place to measure system voltage? The brake lights shouldn't have enough amp pull to draw down my gauge I would think. Or could this be a bad ground issue? I guess my next step will be to wire my pressure gauge to the battery directly and see if that eliminates the draw down unless I have a voltmeter I can pop in my new dual gauge pod.

OK, did the PCM hard reset this morning and got my electric fuel pressure gauge hooked up. Didn't get to test drive yet, but I did notice that my fuel pressure sits at about 26psi while idling according to the electric gauge...goes up to about 32-33 upon hitting the throttle, but is very low the rest of the time. I'm not sure if my gauge is out of calibration or if this is actual pressure....my mechanical gauges (two of them) are showing higher pressures (32 on one, 38 on the other IIRC). When I get a chance I'm going to run all three within a few minutes of each other or if I can find the plumbing parts for it, hook them all up and see what the deal is. I'm wondering if the mechanical gauges have some sort of built-in check valve, but I am using an electronic oil pressure gauge for fuel pressure....this just got really interesting and I haven't even installed the AFR gauge yet!

But idles fine and revs ok as long as the motor isn't under load? Reason I ask is the T/S method I did was if I disconnect the MAP sensor my issue goes away (ECU reads "No Vacuum" and therefore runs the motor rich but won't idle for crap). I'd try disconnecting the MAP sensor and see if it changes the problem....if so you're probably looking at fuel injectors or fuel pump.....hence why I'm going this direction with the AFR gauge. I'll keep you updated as to where I end up, I found an exhaust shop near me I just have to get time off work to take the thing over to him now.

At this point I'd do a rain dance.....I'll try it when I get home tonight and take the truck to rugby practice. Also, the cat wasn't the problem although throttle response is MUCH better now. Went to replace fuel pump, the original (I think it is anyway) was in there with no strainer....bought another strainer and installed thinking the old one could be in the tank blocking and unblocking the pump. NOPE. Same issues, now waiting for my bosch strainer to arrive since the Advance Auto Parts one didn't fit properly on the New Bosch Fuel Pump. Good news, I would be willing to bet money I can change that fuel pump now faster than anyone else on the forum! :D 3 times Sunday and I'll be doing it again as soon as the new strainer arrives. Another question: When you first turn the key on, does you fuel pump come on then cut off automatically after about 2-3 seconds? Without starting the motor. Just curious.

What have you done so far to troubleshoot?

Purchased an AEM Wideband....just need to find a decent exhaust shop this week to punch me a hole since my welder is in Atlanta at the moment: http://www.amazon.com/AEM-30-4110-UEGO-Ratio-Gauge/dp/B00N3VGPYS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459873315&sr=8-1&keywords=AEM+wideband I'll just mount the 2nd O2 sensor in the pipe between the (now hollow) cat and the manifold. Comes with the kit, so no needing to match it to the Jeep computer. :D

Sorry to resurrect the thread, but did this work? I'm swapping my fuel pump and waiting on a strainer to come in....I don't wanny pull the pump a 3rd time today, but I can do this tonight while I wait if it works.

Newest update, the jeep isn't dead.....yet. New 703s installed. Look good, ran great.....for a day. Now back to same issue. Pulled fuel regulator even though it tested good (was full of rust and crap) and swapped for another from the JY in much better shape. Also swapped out relays for fuel pump and auto-shutdown. No change. I did start logging when the issues are happening though. Everytime the temperature is below about 70* F the jeep acts up. So the issue is definitely temperature related and intermittent when it does happen. I finally pulled out the stops and bought an A/F Ratio gauge as well as an electric oil pressure gauge I'm rigging up to read fuel pressure. This way I can positively ID the issue when it does happen. Also bought a new fuel pump to swap in if this is the issue although I haven't yet. Tested the cat today (IR thermometer method) and it clearly wasn't doing much so I gutted it. Gonna go for a test drive although it's well over 75 today, I doubt I'll have any issues at all....but if I do, the fuel pump is going next. At this point I have a new crank position sensor, new MAP sensor, cleaned throttlebody, new Idle air sensor, new air filter (K&N from the junkyard for $2!!!), new fuel filter, new pressure regulator, upgraded injectors (cleaned and bench tested), new distributor, new spark plugs, new spark plug wires, new ignition coil..........any other ideas???

Looks like all I needed was the vacuum actuator and a turn signal stalk! Super easy. Question though: The stalk I pulled was in less than great shape. Would any GM one work? I had this in mind: http://www.ebay.com/itm/371109667956

Anyone know how hard swapping in cruise control to a non-cruise truck would be? Found a great donor at the jy and need at act quickly. Mine: 92, 4.0, 4x4, 5sp Donor: 92, 4.0, 2wd, Auto

Love that Avitar of yours!! Where is the yard with the Comanche? NOLA? New Orleans, LA.? Yep, New Orleans. Rusty, has anyone installed cruise in a non-cruise Jeep? I'd love to have it but don't know if the wiring is already in place or not.

It's in the registry

Ok, can't use Picasa/Google images here so I'll just leave the album link and whoever want to see it can click. https://goo.gl/photos/h1CXA21LEWQ8rMvG6

Year: 1992 Make: Comanche Model: LWB, Pioneer? Image, if available Engine: 4.0L H.O Trans: Automatic (AW4?) Transfercase: N/A Front axle: N/A Rear axle: Dana 35 Wheelbase: LWB Build date: (its on the driverside door sticker, in the form of month and year) Current Location: Pull-a-Part: New Orleans West Status:Junkyard Notes: Floor shift with grey vinyl bucket seats and center console. A/C, Cruise control truck. Manual windows, manual locks. Repainted a baby blue color. Missing taillights and fuel pump as of 3/25/16, rest of truck intact and complete. Has "Wildcat" step bars under cab. Current owner: Pull-a-part NOLA Pics to come after I get them uploaded to Picasa.

Guess I'll have to upload pics to Picasa or something. It's been repainted blue but I'll get em up once I get home.

If you see something you need, lemme know. Auto trans, manual doors, cruise control, and a/c. Decent shape, only 138k on the clock.

Anybody use these on a HO motor? Or know if the renix and HO vacuum lines are similar?

Dumb question, but what's wrong with IFS/IRS? Done right, it improves ride, trail capability (look at modern Baja trucks), and gives you a lot to play with. A solid axle....well, it's easier to work on and most of them are pretty stout. What am I missing here? Also, too cute. Square it up a bit and then we'll talk. Actually, that goes for pretty much the whole Jeep lineup right now.

Update time. Talked with an old timer about what a crapshoot these computer-aided troubleshooting systems are (OBD 1 for the rest of y'all). He suggested a leaky fuel injector causing the stutter so I grabbed my junkyard set of Bosch 703 injectors and threw them on. Jeep ran like a top! For a day. Now, I'm getting the stutter again but not nearly as bad. I'm thinking he was on to something so I picked up a set of reman 703s on FleaBay and they should arrive Monday. Man, and I was so close to liking my Comanche again. SO CLOSE!!!

Hadn't solved the issue yet, cold weather, rain, and a torn ACL have hindered progress somewhat. Will update when I continue to TS issue. Does anyone have a wiring diagram of the ECU with wire colors? I don't really want to undo all the factory wiring looms to chase this signal, although I know that's probably what I'll have to end of doing....