Tex06

Drove it and ordered some 10W-30 from wally world for my tranny. Will be changing the AX-15 fluid and greasing the chassis tonight before a road trip tomorrow!

Lol, well this answered a lot of my questions. The poor old tired motor won't hold speed in 5th on an overpass....always have to downshift but I've been up to 65 a time or two on the backside of the bridge. 209k on the clock and she may just need a rebuild.

Mine had one, but I think the PO removed it...assuming when the ashtray broke, lol. Yet another thing to fix.....

Only issues off-idle? The rest of the RPM range is ok?

I'm gonna be swapping whatever is in mine with 10W-30 synthetic this afternoon....currently it shifts like a well-abused logging truck and kicks out of 1st if you shift into it at a stand still (but downshift while rolling and she'll take off just fine from a stop....go figure). Also, if you really, really want to get into the nitty-gritty of it this is a great little read. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2554764 Turns out, not all GL-5 oils are bad for the brass....just some are. It's difficult to know which ones though without out lab results (which these guys did!)

Been having issues keeping her in first and found this on the jeepsunlimited.com (thanks to user marc1kim), thought it'd be useful to share. This info is only for the Aisin (AX5/15 5 speed manual) transmissions, not the BA-10 or AW4: *Pennzoil Syncromesh, and Royal Purple Synchromax are only recommended for the NV3550 and other NV trannys. (Not recommended for AX-5/AX-15). *Pennzoil has a GL4 lube, and Royal Purple recommends 10W40 motor oil for all 98 and newer jeep manual transmissions WITHOUT the NV trans. (Ax-5/Ax-15 fall in this category) *10W30 and (Jeeps recommended) GL-3 are roughly the same viscosity, and Gl-4 and 10W40 same viscosity as well. *All GL lubes have some kind of Sulfur content in them (needed for the High pressure Hypoid gears in rear ends, but not necessarily needed for most transmissions.) *Sulfur addadives react to brass internal parts. *GL-5 has twice the sulfur content of GL-4. *AX-5 and AX-15 are japanese manual transmissions, and the majority of manual Japanese transmission do not recommend the use of GL-5. because of the way it reacts to brass. *Red Line MTL is classified as a 70W80 gear lubricant satisfying the API Service requirements of GL-3 and GL-4. MTL also satisfies motor oil viscosities SAE 5W/10W/30, and the viscosity requirements for ATFs. *Redline MT-90 is a 75W90 GL-4 and also satisfies motor oil viscosities SAE 10W/15W/40. So it's safe to say: AX-5/AX-15 can use (synthetic?) 10W30, 10W40, GL-4, Or Redlines MT-90 or MTL and the New Venture transmissions Pennzoil Synchromesh, and Royal Purple Synchromax. Allthough I searched many website Here are some references with some good info: Good basic info and a mention of GL/ motor oil equivalents, and one mention of Japanese gear boxes. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gear_oil Viscosity chart: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/visc.html Gear Lube Definitions: http://www.finalube.com/reference_ma...tegories.h tm Redline MTL / MT-90 info and what they can substitute: http://www.roadraceengineering.com/p...-mtl-info.html And from the Amsoil website: "The difference in GL-4 and GL-5 is that GL-4 gear lubes have half the extreme pressure additives of GL-5. Because the gear types in manual transmissions do not necessitate the use of GL-5 gear lube, GL-4 is the correct recommendation called for by most OEM’s when gear lube is required." GL-4 definition: "This designation denotes lubricants intended for axles with spiral bevel gears operating under moderate to severe conditions of speed and load or axles with hypoid gears operating under moderate speeds and loads." - so GL-4 will have additives for the Hypoid Gears. And here's where it all comes home (and probably explains why Chrysler made the change): GL-3 Definition: "Gear lubricants designated for API GL-3 service are not intended for axles with hypoid gears. Some transmission and axle manufacturers specify API Category "CC" or "CD" motor oils for this service." note: "CC" and "CD" oils have been upgraded to newer designations and are equivalent to 15w40

Don, does your '91 have a 1/2" oil drain plug or 14mm? Again, the computers told me one part and it turned out to be another. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Twitchy steering is great in my Fiero as it spends most of its life on the track. I think I have 1.5-1.75 turns lock to lock but the center of gravity is low enough to not worry about stability issues. My 4x4s I like responsive, but streetable for both myself and my girlfriend. It's all about personal preference and your driving style. [emoji2] Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web/PartSearchCmd?storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&pageId=partTypeList&suggestion=&actionSrc=Form&langId=-1&searchTerm=temperature+sender&vehicleIdSearch=321080&vehicle_321080=1992+%3A+Jeep+%3A+Cherokee+Sport+%3A+4.0L+242CI+L6+FI+VIN%3A+S&vehicle_21290=1991+%3A+Jeep+%3A+Comanche+%3A+4.0L+242CI+L6+FI+VIN%3A+S&searchedFrom=headerAnd the temp sensor with the "threaded stud coming out of the top" are for the 91 models. Lol, "doesn't fit your vehicle". Now I know why I couldn't find it..... God I hate those filters sometimes. Thanks! I guess '92 is the year it changes then, making it a one-off. [emoji19] I'll have to remember that if I run into similar sensor issues. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Found the issue. Sending unit I got wasn't for a gauge, it's for the idiot light. Edit: no, I just thought I did. The major retail parts houses don't carry this piece. If you ask for with the gauge you get a sending unit with a threaded stud coming out of the top. The proper piece is Mopar 56027012 Temperature Gauge Switch. Should look like what the parts house have for the dummy light but with a white or cream colored plastic connector. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

The point I'm getting at I reckon is no one seems to have dissembled and measured an MJ steering box to tell if it is indeed a variable ratio Saginaw box. According to multiple forums so far I've read that XJs (and by I have assumed this to be true for MJs) are either all variable, all fixed, or came with both. I haven't been able to find anything concrete either way, but I can tell you my MJ steers like my '86 Chevy Truck which DOES have a variable ratio Saginaw steering box in it. Very much a one finger driver, lol. I'm going to try and get access to the water jet table in the next few weeks and slice my MJ box in half after I rebuild and install the jy Saginaw 800 I pulled from a 96 Grand Cherokee. If that works out, I'll post up the pics of what I find. Should be pretty easy to tell on the sector gear or worm gear if it's variable or not. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Link: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7247895-Variable-ratio-steering-for-boneheads-who-don-t-know-how-to-drive-Good-idea-or-no Sent from atop the porcelain throne. Variable assist comes from changing the amount of pressure (the power steering pump with a solenoid on it) going to the system. Variable ratio steering means that when I turn the wheel X degrees, I get a Y degree change when straight but a Z degree change coming of the locks, regardless of how much effort I am putting into it. This change in wheel speed is bad for offroading as it makes it difficult to judge how much input you need to move an exact amount.... Which can lead to broken stuff.

I found a post on VW vortex that I think clears things up since some folks seem to be confused about variable ratio steering vs variable assist steering. Copied from VWVORTEX.com : Um, I feel like people are talking about different things. Variable assist is one thing, where the effort varies, lighter for low speed, parking lot maneuver and heavier for at speed. The ratio of the steering does not change(degree of turn for steering wheel vs degree of steer for road wheel). Variable ratio can be fixed or actually variable. Cars like the new GTI comes with a variable ratio, which is done by physically having different pitch on the rack. Slower on center, faster near the limit. Some cars now also have active steering(IIRC BMW was the first on road car? from E90?) There is a fixed rack, but IIRC there is a gearbox between the column and the rack itself that varies the ratio between the steering input and the amount of wheel steer. The relation is largely depending on programming, and I assume there is a fail-safe position. If you have a purely steer by wire setup like Q50 I think the gearbox/steering column in that case just gets replaced by a motor and it actuate the rack based on the signal output by the steering wheel. And all of the above can still have variable assist...

This was the variable assist power steering. There will be an electrical connection on the power steering pump for a solenoid that controls pump pressure based on vehicle speed. Higher speed, lower pressure, steering is less sensitive. Lower speed, higher pressure, steering is easier. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Also checked Autozone. Same P/N for 90 and 00 XJ. 7525, only says 3.3 turns lock to lock. I'll measure mine once I pull it and confirm, but that's a ways out yet. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

The stock XJ/MJ box is 14:1, fixed ratio. 3-1/2 turns lock-to-lock.Can you show me where you got this? All of the forums I've read so far and the way my MJ turns (visual check only, not measured) have confirmed variable. It's way to early for Google, but here is a quick link for later model XJ, I believe the box is the same for all years. http://pma4x4.com/2012/02/1996-01-jeep-cherokee-xj-steering-gearbox-upgrade/ Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Variable ratio steering vs fixed ratio steering. Variable is very good for daily use, very bad on the trail. The stock box is variable ratio. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steering_ratio

I'm more interested in getting rid of the variable steering. The 1/2 turn would be great to get rid of, esp since I'm currently running a Grant GT steering wheel.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/looking-info-supercharged-3-8-engine-swap-314284/index2.html http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-hardcore-tech/872757-overdrive-yj.html

'86 models with the GM 2.8L V6? Anything other year, it's probably a 4.0L that someone just put "V6" because they wouldn't know the difference between an inline motor and a V motor if it were dropped on their foot. Side note: If you could get your hands on an '86 with the 2.8, the supercharged 3.8 motor (3800 series I, II, and III) from a Pontiac Grand Prix GT or a Bonneville SS will drop right in. Even the wiring isn't difficult to do, I'm sure it's not too different than wiring up a Fiero (where I learned of all of this). Want to talk about a screamer......

Haha, I was gonna say I have one I just pulled when I swapped in my cruise. Not shiny chrome but exactly what you were looking for.

I've got the old style arms still and use silicone inserts (about $6 shipped from china) in my metal brackets. They don't oxidize like rubber and last me about a year or so before I get any chatter. Side note: Does the motor control where the arms stop? Ever since I bought my MJ (with rubber and silicone blades), the arms stop at about 20 deg above horizontal, unless it's raining hard, then they slap the cowl. They're not clocked wrong, the sweep is perfect on the up stroke and doesn't change wet or dry. Only the bottom of the sweep changes depending on the amount of water on the windshield.

Yeah, I'm going to reinforce the frame there because there's a good chance I'll crack it otherwise. Not too worried about the actual install, I've got a lift and all the goodies that come with it. I just want to know for sure what my options are before I put in the work. I'll probably pull the ZJ box today, if it doesn't get used on the MJ, I can always swap it into a muscle car later. Was steering any quicker? I know with all the mods it was probably difficult to tell. Or any idea if it's fixed ratio or variable?

Been wanting to snag a steering box at the local pull a part for when I do my intake and exhaust systems swap. So far I'm almost confused but narrowed down to two options : 1. ZJ 93-96 box (12.7:1 steering, fixed ratio, same range lock to lock, no stronger than stock unit, bolts directly in) 2. Dodge Durango '99 only? (ratio unknown, fixed ratio, range lock to lock unknown, beefier than stock unit, maybe a direct swap?) also a pita to pull I hear. The local yard has someone who comes and grabs all the ZJ steering boxes, I found one yesterday from 13 carcasses. There were though about 3 Durangos, all untouched. Does anyone know the details on the Durango boxes? I'd like the quicker steering and am planning on running larger tires and beadlocks once I start wheeling this thing. Basically does a 12.7:1, fixed ratioDurango box exist? My current setup is I believe stock as lock to lock is around 3.5 turns and it's definitely variable. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

EBay? I'd like to get a set of these for my motorcycle. It's less about efficiency and more about not having extra splices and failure points (resistors don't like vibrations). Sent from atop the porcelain throne.