Tex06

Or 3.55 with 33" tires if it's not going into OD Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk Previous owner could have changed out the gear (or however the tranny relays the speed info) to correct the speedo. You should use your phone or a GPS and check the accuracy of it.

Count your shifts. Should see your tach drop on each one. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Borrowed from another jeep site, Cruiser's test is outlined for Renix CPSs as the second test. TESTING PROCEDURE 1991 – 2001 4.0L H.O. engines 1. Near the rear of intake manifold, disconnect sensor pigtail harness connector from main wiring harness. 2. Place an ohmmeter across terminals B and C (SEE Image). Ohmmeter should be set to 1K-to-1OK scale for this test. 3. The meter reading should be open (infinite resistance). Replace sensor if a low resistance is indicated. TESTING PROCECURE for 1987 – 1990 4.0 L engines Test # 1 - Get a volt/ohm meter and set it to read 0 - 500 ohms. Unplug the CPS and measure across the CPS connector's A & B leads. Your meter should show a CPS resistance of between 125 - 275 ohms. If the CPS is out of that range by much, replace it. Test # 2 - You will need a helper for this one. Set the volt/ohm meter to read 0 - 5 AC volts or the closest AC Volts scale your meter has to this range. Measure across the CPS leads for voltage generated as your helper cranks the engine. (The engine can't fire up without the CPS connected but watch for moving parts just the same!) The meter should show .5 - .8 VAC when cranking. (That's between 1/2 and ~1 volt AC.) If it's below .5 VAC, replace it. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

CPS, TPS....the alphabet all looks the same late at night. Whoops. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Can Renix TPSs be tested like an HO? If so, I'd recommend you get 2 paperclips and do that ASAP. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Try napa. Their CPS worked better for me. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

From what I understand, the alternator cable is the most important one to upgrade since it sees the highest amps when the alternator is charging the system (after starting, using a winch, left the headlamps on for a late night football game, etc...). Might want to look into getting that one in particular upgraded!

Yep, I removed it completely. The big plastic connector is hot though, correct? Do I need to tape it off for water intrusion? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

My new cables are installed and look great! Had a little hiccup with the alternator, the new lug wouldn't fit inside the insulator on the 130A alternator but a little dremel work fixed that right up. Before (doesn't fit) After (now fits awesome! ) Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Power distribution center. The black plastic thingy with all your fuses in it. Sits right behind your battery and the hot lead is attached to the front of it under a little cover. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk (I did the same thing until I saw a picture.)

Thanks Don, I'll look again! Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

So it's supposed to be connected to the back of the temp slider thingy? I like the idea of the 97+ hose upgrade (even though I already spent $7 on tubing, lol) but want to make sure to plug this off to prevent vacuum leaks. The vacuum hose is so shot that anytime I touch it it just crumbles so plugging it in the engine bay isn't an option. Edit: Guess I should also mention that I didn't see it in the place I just referenced. I'll take a pic tomorrow in the daylight, but the back of the A/C control panel looks to be purely electronic, no vacuum. Re-Edit: If anyone has pictures that would be awesome!

Pulled this off another forum, Neal drew it up:

More pictures of my set here: http://comancheclub.com/topic/51432-battery-cables/ Thanks Neal!

Got my cables in earlier this week, Neal was awesome at answering my questions I had and kept me informed where he was on getting them out to me. I got a box with 3 envelopes in it, one with my MJ set, one with my XJ set, and one with the battery connections, fuses, and fuse holders. I snapped a few pics so y'all could see how it all arrived as I opened it up. I'm very happy with the quality of the cables, only suggestion I think I would add is a diagram or a list of where each of them go for the wrench-impaired amongst us ;) Note, he sends out 2 fuses per kit which I think is pretty cool. Now I have a spare to toss in the glovebox in case of emergency! Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Most all of the HO sensors use a 5VDC reference voltage. This voltage is generated by the ECU and the tolerance is tight. One thing you should try is disconnect the 60-pin connector from the ecu and check for recessed pins, then clean both sides up carefully with a good electrical contact cleaner. Do not use dielectric grease when reconnecting. This usually brings the sensor 5V reference voltage back up to specs by cleaning up any corrosion (resistance) from the pins. Pulled my 60-pin apart yesterday. Sure enough, white corrosion on several of the pins. I wire brushed them as best I could and cleaned with QD cleaner (electronics cleaner). Voltage at the TPS is now up to 4.94VDC, so I'm much closer. When I check my readings from the TPS though, they're not smooth at WOT, sometimes I get the full 4.94, but a lot of times it's only 3.9~4.00 VDC. As soon as I get my dashboard put back together for this dumb vacuum line (http://comancheclub.com/topic/51514-vacuum-hose/ ) I'll take it for a test drive and see what's up. I have been getting Engine Code 24 (TPS signal bad essentially) so I'm wondering if it was the reference voltage or the signal voltage that was throwing the code. You wouldn't happen to know the tolerance for the 5VDC from the ECU would ya?

Ok, I managed to get my hands on some suitable replacement for the vacuum line in the first picture. It connects in the engine bay to the vacuum solenoid in the second picture. Where the heck does it go in the cab? I've got the dash apart, I had assumed (incorrectly) that it attached to the A/C controls but can't find the other end of that sucker anywhere. Any ideas? (Pictures greatly appreciated!!!) Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

JY tranny and rebuild it. Doesn't matter 2 or 4wd, there's an outfit in San Antonio that sells new mainshafts for $130 and a rebuild kit on amazon was $150 with synchros. All you need is a press and a few hand tools, I can get you the links for it from various websites. So far I've invested $300 in my rebuild and $130 of that is because I'm a dumba$$ and managed to crack my mainshaft by not looking where I put my bearing splitter. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Basically what hornbrod said. His method will help identify the problem faster. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Shift into neutral at speed and see if there's any change. Does it change with speed? Ever stop? Suddenly start at 15mph or gradual increase? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

http://www.rockauto.com/m/mobilecatalog.php?carcode=1181821&parttype=6900 Bought mine last year from them, along with all the other bits I was missing. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Swap that slave cylinder out for an external if you don't go automatic. I'm in the process of doing mine (about $200 invested so far with a tranny rebuild kit included).

Idle speed should pick up. If you're not sure, spray a little in the air filter. It'll have the same effect. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Same thing. Spray around the vacuum lines, throttle body, and any other hoses/rubber fittings. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Vacuum leak. You have a can of engine starting fluid (ether)? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk