Tex06

Great to hear! Hopefully the repairs go smoother than the appraisal. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

'07? They had the Internet back then? [emoji14] Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

I guess what I'm wondering is will my 92 have the wires for it and I just need to add the switches or whole door with electronics? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Best thing I've found for this. On a weekend (or whenever you don't drive it much is), go to wally world and buy yourself 2-3 cans of their cheapest engine degreaser (about $12 for 3) and a small nylon brush for scrubbing, with a long handle. Park near water hose (engine can be hot or cold, I like it warm but not just finished driving hot. Helps break down the grease IMO) and pop the hood. Disconnect the battery and hose that block down with degreaser, top to bottom and even underneath. Tranny too if it needs it. Wait 10-15 min, and spray off with a hose (no pressure washer, too much chance of forcing water into places it doesn't belong. Repeat 2-3-4 times or until the engine looks clean, use the brush to break up "gunk" in the crevices that's built way up. Depending on how clean this gets your engine you can even wipe it down afterwards with degreaser and shoot paint on it if ya like (won't be a professional looking job but it will stop the now bare metal from rusting up on ya if the original paint is missing). Once the engine is clean, LET IT DRY! Don't hook the battery up for at least a few hours until the motor is dried off. Then take it for a short drive to warm it up and get the rest of the moisture out. Park it again and inspect for oil. Should be easy to find any leaks, use your hands and feel around the back. Also can park it over cardboard at night to see if you have any drips while it sits. If none are located, do longer and longer drives until either it does show up or you're convinced it's not there anymore.

Wait, you have electronics in your door? That not very jeep-like! ;) Good job troubleshooting! Are you adding pw/pl or just upgrading? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Or use about 3 ft of extension! I installed mine seperate and while it was all 4 tires (no jack stands), easy easy!!!

I did a full tear down of my driver's side door last year but can't find the pics (if I took any of the MJ....I did my '86 K30 at the same time and found those, lol). My window was getting hard to roll up and down and my key wouldn't always unlock the door. It's about a 2 hour job to tear down the door, pull the window glass and then latch and lock mechanisms. I used a wire brush and some brake cleaner to get all the old black gunk and grease off of the mechanism, then relubed with a can of spray white lithium grease from Wal-Mart (about $3). Put everything together then didn't do the passenger side....and now I'm having window issues over there. All in all, shouldn't take longer than an afternoon. Note about the windows: If the window is hard to roll up, pop off the handle and see if the stem wiggles. If so you need a new regulator, there's nothing to be done to fix that that I'm aware of. Pulling the regulator is a little bit of a PITA, it's riveted in place. I bought the biggest rivet gun Harbor Freight had (looks like a pair of bolt cutters) and some spare rivets (they were the 2nd biggest ones I believe, maybe 1/4" or 5/16"?). I also greased the chain inside of the regulator with a spray graphite dry lube meant for bicycle chains I had. Other than drilling out the rivets, this was a super easy job! 2nd Note: Now that I think about it, I used a dremel with a cut-off wheel to get the rivets out....1/2 were easy and drilled right out, 1/2 had a stainless center and would just spin when I tried to drill them.

I couldn't do Renix Rules.....My MJ is one of the few that's NEWER than Dons! :D

He'll take $18.50 for them. ^^^^

I'll buy it for $1!

Hell I shoulda bet you had to put "Bama Sux!" on your little pickup in the tagline until next season!

Check your grounds. If you have access to a multimeter, pull your light bulbs and test the socket for continuity to ground and for +12V while someone is pressing the brake pedal, flasher on, brake and flasher on. Then post what you're getting here and someone can probably help you out :) Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

$50 says you're wrong. Paypal payment only. Don, normally I don't bet but because you've been such a great help to me and others, I'll wager $20. Can't spare $50 at the moment in case I'm wrong (it happened once before! ) Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

I'm guessing, but it looks like it goes between the bearing cap and the oil pan. Then the strap goes outside of the pan. But again, I'm just guessing. The rubber looks to be molded to the metal strap. Are you suggesting you cut it off and stuff it in between the pan and the oil pan gasket? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Yes. The strap puts pressure on the rounded part of the gasket at the very rear. No idea what exactly the rubber does, but I've heard of a couple people who say it's fixed a slight RMS area leak. Possibly it squeezes the gasket a little bit more? :dunno: The rubber is molded to the strap and it goes on the outside of the pan. You're probably correct Jeremy. It definitely slowed down the leak I had there. Barely have to wipe it anymore. But it still weeps about like the pic above........ Slowed down compared to no strap before? Or strap with no rubber? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

I'm guessing, but it looks like it goes between the bearing cap and the oil pan. Then the strap goes outside of the pan. But again, I'm just guessing. The gasket is sandwiched between the #7 main bearing cap and the oil pan(there's a little groove in the bearing cap for the gasket to sit in) and the ring goes on top of the oil pan after it's been installed using the very rearmost pair of bolts. It's the brighter strip of metal by the tip of the arrow. I think you misunderstood. I meant the rubber on the metal strap. I just did my RMS and I have the strap but without the rubber on it. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

In some states even if it's totaled you can keep the car and the cash. Louisiana is that way and a lot of folks here did that during the Great Flood last year. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

What's the rubber do? The metal strap does go outside the oil pan, right? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Thanks Don! I like the greaseable ones....I'm pretty religious about my 3,000mi oil change and chassis lube! I'll go with the Spicer, Amazon says it'll be here in 2 days :D

Front U-joint on the truck had a crushed bearing in it when I took it off this weekend (tranny swap, fluid swap, and new rear main seal....whew!). Was wondering what you guys use and what your experience has been. I've been told Moog has moved production out of the USA so I'm a little skeptical of them. So far I've looked at: Spicer 5-153X U-Joint Kit $14.14 Spicer 5-1310-1X U-Joint Kit $24.27 Summit Racing SUM-732000 $9.97 MOOG Moog Super U-Joints 378 $20.97 (Greasable) Moog Moog Super U-Joints 280 $15.97 (Solid, non-greasable) Moog U-Joint 280 $19.99 with lifetime warranty (greasable) Moog U-join 369 $15.79 w/lifetime warranty (greaseable) Spicer Life Series 5-1310-1X $45.99 w/lifetime warranty (non-greasable) Then to top it all off, do you go solid or greasable? My gut says go greaseable but I'm planning to use this as a crawler eventually. Right now it sees limited off-road use, maybe a little mud (and water....it does flood in Louisiana, lol). Whatcha think?

With no Lane Kiffen, I'm giving the edge to Clemson. They didn't just play Ohio State, they slaughtered them. I mean really? Shut out in the playoffs? ACC is looking pretty strong this year in bowls.....

For those of you who might need this, here's the layout: And with the bigger bolts pulled out: Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Apparently I had a shim from one if my jy visits. For those wondering, they look like this: Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Chains are truly the unsafest way to pull someone out, Look into kinectic energy ropes(bubba rope, voodoo rope, master pull) it's literally a rubber band and have seen Cherokees pull 2 ton mud boggers out I think he was talking about tire chains. He was on snow and using a winch. I'm only assuming here but that is how I read it. Shhhhh....he's probably from the south. We're not really sure what that white stuff on the ground is, much less how to drive in it. [emoji13] Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

P.S. I have the older style NP231 shown in the above picture. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk