Tex06

This should be it if you want new: https://www.amazon.com/Painless-30001-ATO-Fuse-Center/dp/B00062Z5YI/ref=asc_df_B00062Z5YI/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=&hvpos=&hvnetw=o&hvrand=&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584413735837516&psc=1

I've got 265/75 R16s on a set of TJ Rubicon take offs on a 4-4.5" lift (not sure exactly what it used to be but it's about 4" now). Rubs at full lock to the right if I remember correctly. I took them off for the 31x10.5 on 15s because I was constantly rubbing going in/out of parking lots. Edit: I did have to run a spacer/adapter to correct the bolt pattern. I ran the thinnest one I could find, I think it was 1.25" IIRC.

You'll definitely have to make sure you don't get it all over everything. Silicone doesn't harden so it works very well in vibration-prone environments. The Oracle stuff is silicone based, not sure what exactly differentiates it from regular black RTV, but it comes with the same precautions (protect any surfaces to be coated later on).

Or use a clear silicone sealant. Water-proof, clear, and holds up up UV very well.

Yup. Put an aluminum can in the bed and drive on the highway, you'll see it travel "up" the bed jump into the air once it gets to the cab and then hit the tailgate....well until you go fast enough to where it goes over the tailgate. As far as keeping your tailgate, this is a great idea if you don't have a camper shell to keep it in place. I remove my tailgate at least once or twice a week to load/unload stuff (been moving a lot of appliances for the new house lately) and prevent it from getting damaged.

What year XJ is that console out of?

Might not. I've a 92 so H.O., not Renix.

And now you're one of the leading posters on the forum!!!

100% rubber bushings if you want comfort. Heims will transmit any shock/vibration straight into the rest of the vehicle. Replace everything though...all that rubber is 30+ years old at this point and is likely hardened or completely shot. For the Bilsteins, I'd highly suggest getting your jeep weighed when loaded down and then calling either Bilstein directly or if you can look up a custom suspension shop and see if they can help you out. A lot of times just giving a phone call and talking with them will help you figure out if those shocks will work for what you want. Just because they're "YJ Bilsteins" doesn't mean they are working as intended or that they'll work for your needs. You don't have to go full custom but a lot of shock manufacturers either sell revalving kits or will rebuild an existing shock to meet your needs.

Yeah, that can be a problem sometimes!

MJs actually would benefit from it quite a bit, the unibody construction made for a very stiff setup (good thing) and they were fairly successful as racers back in their day. If my old body on frame nova benefits from it, the unibody MJ/XJ would definitely see some improvement. Not many folks running a lowered MJ (and 2WD obviously) which would necessitate/justify the running of a Watts Link. For a 4WD, lifted vehicle this would be terrible as you would get rid of most any "flex" in the suspension for clearing obstacles.

100% agree. Part of the reason I don't go bigger on my ujoints unless I'm repeatedly breaking them...I want that to be my failure point if I have the option.

The 7% is just from an engineering/gearset POV (I deal with gear design in my day to day). The clearance is a definite nice upgrade but the gearset engagement only makes a very slight difference. Currie's most robust front axle is actually a LP design, a Ford 9" design (yours for only $17k and change!) and many of their axle combos are high pinion both front and rear (a high pinion rear uses the "coast" side of the gear to drive like a LP front would). I don't know why people still use crush sleeves when better options exist, Ratech's smart sleeve is an awesome replacement I've used in all my GM axles, and a number of companies sell crush sleeve eliminator kits for the LP D30. Other than the clearance, I've yet to see a mathmatically better reason for a HP over a LP. Esp considering the price difference in a lot of places. Just my $.02

Haven't done the math in a while but it's like a 7% difference in strength between HP and LP on the gearset alone. You're much more likely to break an axle shaft or knuckle before the LP/HP is a factor. Unless you're running the axle to it's limits, there's no real difference (which is why Chrysler and other makes have used LP front axles on and off throughout the years). D30 is a great axle for trails and daily driver (which it sounds like you're gonna be doing). I'd throw the LP D30 under the truck, replace the seals & fluid, and run it. If it gives you issues, you can always rebuild your HP out of the vehicle and at your own leisure and it'll bolt right back in.

Awesome, love it when people post a good fix to their problems and not just the problem itself! Is this Papa Mel from 3rd Coast Comanches by chance?

If someone was racing their MJ, a panhard would help but a watts linkage is a much better choice as it doesn't pull to one side with the loading/unloading of the rear suspension. For a 4x4 though, any type of bar/linkage will limit suspension travel and many types are susceptible to binding at the extreme ends of travel....something leafs are not prone to. Leaf spring rear suspensions are typically "good enough" suspensions, they do not excel at anything other than being cheap but do a good enough job to work for 99% of the situations a vehicle is likely to encounter.

Wait, I've got a maple jeep?

Rebuilt motor mean all new seals, you'll be good to go. If you wanna save a little $$$, use regular oil and change every 3k. If you want to save a little time, use full synthetic and go 5-7k between changes.

Copper plugs, spending more is just throwing $$$ out the window, imo. I run the cheapest stuff around for oil (usually Wal-Mart's SuperTech) and a FoMoCo FL-1A filter. If you're changing it every 3k miles, the oil doesn't really matter (gets plenty hot here in S. Louisiana). If you like to go longer between changes, go full synthetic. Buy a good filter. On an older motor, as stated above, swapping from dino oil to synthetic can "cause" leaks due to the detergents in the oil. Not super common, but I blame that for finding out my original cork oil pan gasket had a leak (early in my ownership of my MJ I thought that synthetic would be "better". Ended up only doing the one oil change with synthetic, noticed my Jeep started marking it's territory in my driveway....the roommate and owner of the house was PI$$ED. Replaced with gasket the blue Fel-Pro, bought some more cheap oil because I didn't have $40 for another oil change, and never looked back).

I didn't. I researched and bought the Kobalt 24V even though I'm committed with all my woodworking tools are Porter Cable 20V Li-Ion. No regrets so far with the Kobalt setup.

I used a little heat on the manifold and some Pblaster on the fitting. Be gentle

In keeping with @Pete M's theme: What impact do y'all use? I have the 24V Kobalt 1/2" impact and although kinda big it works well so far. Reviews on it are great and it was only $139 on sale around Xmas. Kobalt Impact Wrench

Primer: None Bodyfiller: Also None Paint: Rustoleum Matte Green Clear: Also also, none How my truck was painted: Surface was cleaned and scuffed with scotchbrite. Windows and handles were masked off, grille and lights were removed. Spray away! (P.O. did it and now I'll be removing all his handiwork)

Thanks for following up....I feel like this is the most overlooked part of a "What is this problem?" post.

No light required over the plate? I've been pulled over more than once for that with my ex-military truck.