zomeizter

I scored a set of rear leaves off a 99 Silverado HD which will be swapped in once I get some home time. I mocked them up under the 'manche and they look like they could work, maybe some shackle bracket relo will get them mounted...

Haha! sure!

Oreilly's carries a plethora of spring pack bolts, just sayin...

Unless you have a show truck, a good quality sealant will also do the trick in the existing perforation after harness placement...I like simplicity though, you do you...

That shtuff looks legit dude but I reckon the I.D. needs to be "filled" with the harness to keep water out? Only one way to find out...

If the IR temp sensor shows normal operating temperature, more than likely there is no overheating issue. I went through what you describe except on a GM truck, turned out to be the resistor on the gauge causing the wonkyness. I made a resistor "cluster" in the signal wire with the correct resistance value to match my IR sensor reading, now the gauge is more accurate than ever. I would put my money on your sensor-to-gauge circuit being the culprit.

I can back this, I planned on upgrading the stock halogen headlights but installed some relays to power the lamps beforehand. Well, I gave this a test through some back woods and I could see the difference this made, never got replacement head lights...

Ensure you can verify that injectors are pulsing, fuel pressure is steady/constant, and ignition is good at all spark plugs. Inspect inside the distributor cap for moisture, if present, dry thoroughly and try again.

Clutch pedal "feel" should not be stiff, it should be firm but smooth and the pressure plate disengagement/engagement at about the pedal travel half-way mark is ideal.

Bazooka for sure, does not take up a lot of space, and makes a quality woofer (I run a 10" Fosgate) sound amazing!

Sport87, you can quickly get YouTube "certified", there is a video for every task on any vehicle on this earth...and then some.

Did you resolve the sync issue? I remember having that issue with a magnum V6, all that was needed was to turn the dizzy, but at the time I had a loaner snapon scanner that made it a swift fix...

change the oil and take it in again...

So what's a good quality flaring tool? I reckon the one I got at HF won't cut it...

Ninja!

If you don't "stomp" correctly the light shall remain on...

Ninja!

kewl $#!& going on here, keep at it... I got EFILive, 0411s are very tweakable and fast enough for some very cool mods...

How about a quick PCM swap, I reckon one can be had for cheap at a boneyard? My C4 did this for a long time but I lived with it since it didn't get used that much and I blamed the issue on this low use condition, but I have a feeling I have a fuel priming prob...good luck pinpointing the cause.

Sounds like you still got a parasitic draw, check your glove box light, that kicked my @$$ a while back...

Take your timing light with you and a can of carb cleaner next time you go for a ride, when it shuts off, hook your timing light up to the coil wire and crank the engine to check for spark. If you have spark but the engine still won't start, spray some carb cleaner into the intake manifold and crank again, if it starts, you have a fuel delivery problem... If the spark check failed prior to spraying into the intake, then proceed to check CPS, coil and wiring as previously recommended, good luck.

Them charge ports look r12ish fo sho...

Looking to refresh my MJ with a rusty '01 XJ for parts but it has a slush box, I want a stick shift, so if you got one let me know...

Is the cable hooked up and does it actually pull and retract when the throttle is actuated?

I did this recently, everything came out and went in nicely with the Spartan, the seal was kind of a b*@ch but I got it in with some home made contraption, maybe the tube is warped on that side?