zomeizter

If both methods do the job well, go for the easy one man!

I got 19 solid mpg from the 'manche on 31s on a regular 50 mi commute when I used to daily it, and a/c use during summer. Got 20 in the winter, experimented with premium fuel, made zero difference. The math was done from every fill-up during 12 months, no lead-foot, hippie driver... I swapped in a Volvo electric radiator fan in lieu of the clutch driven unit which may have contributed to fuel economy.

Hell yes, thanks Pete, Chupacabra drives really nice as is and I would not want to alter handling at all. On the lookout for some relo bracketry...or I may just fab something off my hording stash.

Got some rubbing going on with the tie rod and quick disco bottom, does this mandate a dropped pitman installation?

Can confirm mine has it...

Somehow I was able to mount some punchy 6x9s at the pillars without cutting, I think I removed the 4x6 brackets, just an option once you get your headset in the dash...

I'm back to civilization @Kickin’Chicken, let me know if you still need help with this, I may be able to swing by this weekend...

Torsen...

I'm in Athens, but currently work has me in the bermuda triangle, I think I'm going home around the 20th...

Get your meter and/or test light and identify your hot, ground and fuel level sender leads and make sure the truck harness matches the pump pigtail connector (lead wise). You may have to bypass the fuel pump relay to verify the hot lead on the circuit. Get you some good wiring butt splices to repair the connection you worked on, there are some that will even solder, shrink and seal with just a heat gun. The crimp ones work too, just make sure they are crimped well and match your wiring size/gauge. If you run into issues and can't figure it out, you ain't that far from me, I could hook you up if you ain't in a hurry...

Pete is right dude, there are some super comfy Beemer seats out there you could score, but sometimes these can be pricey. Sit on a few and find your set, then fabricate you some mounts, it's worth the time and effort, trust us...

From the picture, it looks like that black wire you soldered changes to orange at the connector, maybe that's a hot/power lead?

Your cooling fans keep the high side pressure from becoming excessive. If you disabled the fans at some point with the A/C on, the pressure increased but your high pressure switch failed to disable the compressor clutch, then the gas found a way out through it...

Nicely done dude!

Ha! The few times I've had to mess with the spare, I've been able to hold it with my knees and spin the mechanism with my hand...ima fabricate me that there tool one of these days.

You know, one of my springs is saggy as well and have been contemplating using some C/K truck springs I have to replace them. I heard they're about the same length, though I'm not sure about the position of the center bolt/pin. I will give this a shot since I welded some three-hole perches on the 8.8. If this works, this can be a very cheap alternative OP, unless you're set on new specific assemblies...mis dos centavos.

There's a tool for that?

Yup, one like Krusty's shared image.

No DS mods required on mine after the 8.8 went in, I did need a combo u-joint though.

Yo ratrapp, I recently fixed the module in my 'manche, the relay contacts were dirty. Cleaned them up with some sand paper and got my delay/park features back. The repair involved drilling out the rivets to pop it open, I then used a pair of zip ties to keep it together after the fix...wish I had taken pix of the process.

Yeah dude, seen a fair share of "more is better" engineering...

Picked up and installed the front shaft today, took them dudes a couple tries though. Even though the comments on the order stated the measurement from yoke to yoke and the words "lengthen to compensate after lift", they shortened it. Took it back and they redeemed themselves lightning fast and no additional charges. Drove the beast for a bit to check for proper op, pretty smooth up to 75mph. Cost was 190 bux including all new Spicer parts, chupacabra is good to go!

no one could possibly dab more RTV than required! LOL

Use a gasket if you can get one at the local parts house. RTV is acceptable, what you saw on the mating surfaces is due to the "squeeze out" of the RTV upon tightening, that is no issue though as long as no leaks exist.

Pete, you know those accordion style front windshield sun screens you can get super cheap almost anywhere? Yeah, I cut those up (like you did the cardboard) for my RV and you can collapse them and store in a cubby, just sayin...