carnuck

Seal all glue is kickass too! I have a tank from an MJ I parted (trying to remember if it was the longbox or shortbox, but it was 4.0L with electric pump)

Just check the depth of the input gear vs the output shaft's extension and you'll know for sure. I have to put in a 1" spacer to run a NP208J behind the AW4 I'm putting into my '83 J10.

More like flatulence pending! :eek: I would :oops: if I did crapola like that! I'd like to see it keep up to my 2wd Comanche!

I'm going to locking hoodpins if mine breaks.

I would put mine behind the seat, but I keep too much crap back there that would mangle, poke and destroy them. I'm mounting a pair of 6x9s under the dash facing downwards (I took the stupid shelf off long ago because I bashed my shins on it getting in/out, and offroading once too often) Less likely to get screwed up under there and the dash acts as a sound box for the bass.

Looks like what I thought was the filter housing is the 4 banger valve cover! LOL!

It's only 18 amps so the 30 amp dryer outlet should be fine. (I missed the link to the product earlier)

Only the turbo ones. Non-turbos are 5" longer and 3" wider than an AMC 6. After seeing this post, I'll have to hack the cab off my '73 J4000's frame and set the '85 XJ's 2dr body over the 304 and running gear to see how it fits!

I'd go with the Toyota diesel 2LT (turbo) with an auto or stick (auto is a version of the AW4 which should work with just a bellhousing and converter swap) I was looking at a Peugeot diesel too because of the BA 10/5 trans

You can rig up a manual shift controller with a unit from http://awshifting.com

You could check out the V8 swap post. :brows:

I have a 2wd one here in Seattle for $50 from my '86 (has carb bellhousing though) I have modded another internal slave bell to take an external slave too.

I did the SOA, bypassed the rear level valve and moved the brake line from the frame down the bracket for the valve and I'm using the stock rear brake hose.

Purple Ice and Water Wetter are excellent. I dropped my 4 cyl to just around thermostat rating with an old rad while climbing in Moab and Ouray in '02. I have a '91 4.0L block bored with 0.030 pistons and 4.2L rods and crank to go in (the crank and rods came from my Mexican 282 motor that was swapped into my '83 Eagle from a Mexican CJ, then I swapped the motor to my '83 Cherokee after the Eagle was damaged by a hit and run driver and the 999 died for the 3rd time) Were I to do it over again, I would get a billet crank with extra stroke to reach the top of the bore, steel liners on all cyls and 4.0L pistons with the Hesco aluminum head and the new roller cam (about to be released for sale on the Strokers list) to run LPG. High compression is no prob with this setup as LPG is good to 11:1 if it's not cut with Butane to drop it from 130 octane. Natural Gas is even higher with @160 octane. That would put this motor in the $3,000 range and it'll pull @375 HP and 400 ft lbs of torque at 2400 RPM.

Make sure you ONLY use Castrol GTLMA fluid and it'll last the longest! The other kinds eat the real rubber seals.

I ran my 4 cyl, 5 speed 200,000 mile '86 MJ to Ouray and back with 31" tires and 4.10 gears with 6500lbs gross weight (right after I converted it to 4x4 and lifted it 3")

Full size rigs use them too.

You sure that's not a 110V wirefeed? What model is it?

Bad ground on the block is causing a feedback through all the lights to try to turn the motor over.

I run NAPA brand 15W40 synthetic (since I work there) but make sure you don't have a Fram filter! So far in the past 3 years, I have documentation of 11 AMC motors killed from PH11s collapsing and a letter from Ford stating that if your (diesel powered) vehicle comes in for warranty and it has a Fram filter on it, your warranty will be null and void due to the frequent internal collapsing of the filters on cold start up with 15W40 oil.

My '87's fusebox melted around the fan fuse (due to brake fluid from the clutch master dripping into it and corroding the terminals)

The ignition coil is the same as some Ford applications, but it's already fairly high output. You may have a partially clogged injector (there is only 1 after all!) A can of BG's 44K usually helps a lot. Is the EGR sticking? (I went to an aftermarket replacement and put a smaller port in so it only kills the ping and not the power) I went to different plugs (I upgraded my 4 cyl to Splitfire plus and wires (plugs don't work right without the wires. Tried the wires with regular plugs and melted the tips off them!) On my high mileage 4.0L, I went to NGK 2288s (double ground, cooler than stock heat range) as I have no EGR and my ping is gone as long as my blowby tube isn't pumping stuff down the intake. (gotta put a new catch bottle in!~)

what's under that hood?

You didn't use the crank sensor from the 4 cyl?

35% link! Did she post an ad up on http://www.onlinebootycall.com/r.php?ref=250438 ? (this is a real X rated site guys. Don't go there unless that's what you want) If she did, track her down and show him the link.