rokinn

Link on Rockauto for spindle nut. Has the size for the die you want. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=15655&cc=1181720&pt=1616&jsn=506&optionchoice=0-0-0-1

Bad wheel bearings are considered a critical safety issue. If it's loose and making noise it's highly likely it is gone. Repacking may buy you a little time for a diagnostic but examine it carefully. Seizing on the spindle will do considerably more damage and add unnecessary expense.

I've had Vonage voip pretty much since its inception. My sister has Ooma. We both have foreign family connections and needed inexpensive ways to call either Europe or Australia. Currently I just use Telegram on my desktop or cell when necessary. The ability to fax was a necessity for my business also. I used to spend a lot of time in Europe and taking the router with me and just plugging it in made calling the U.S. a local call from there. I keep it because there are too many things connected to that number, I also like it because that is the number I give out when a phone number is needed and only give out my cell number when absolutely necessary. I get spam maybe 3 or 4 times a year on my cell that way. Of course my cell is quite frequently sitting in my car with a dead, or near dead, battery anyway. People know to call me on my voip. I don't need to connect the voip to the house phone lines (though I could). I just have a few of cordless phone placed strategically around the house. I don't usually answer it unless the caller ID is someone I recognize. Well worth it to me.

The twist in the wires should tell you the way in which it has been installed for all these years. You would have to (go against the grain) so to speak to install it the wrong way. There might be a more technical answer but this should work.

Try using some heat from a heat gun and a guitar string in a sawing fashion.

https://www.harborfreight.com/dual-vacuumpressure-hand-pump-kit-56803.html Or some version thereof.

I've had KYB Gas adjust on my 90 long bed for 10 years. They are strangely hard and soft at the same time in the beginning. They take awhile to break in but once they do they are an excellent riding shock and perform very well.

From below I use a 12" wobble extension and electrical tape in the socket to hold the bolt (it's not a swivel). I think it's only one more 6" extension but could be two, don't recall for sure. I never have any problems with this approach. Easy as cherry pie!

I've got Destination AT's and like them a lot. Quiet on the highway and good traction in snow and steep dirt road situations.

Great, good luck. Very likely better than the auto stores. You might see if they can put a faster worm gear in for you.

The name of the place I used is called Cars Power Steering Inc. 845 Wyandot St. Denver 80204 303-292-6324. I also had him check out my pump. He lowered the pressure on it also. Said it didn't need to be that high. It's been 8 1/2 years and all is still going strong.

There's a shop in Denver that will rebuild what you have and swap the worm gear to a faster gear if so desired. I'd have to look him up if you are interested. I had mine done by him and am completely happy. If memory serves the Durango is an option also for heavy duty.

Check to make sure it isn't just broken off with the remaining portion still in the head and not able to be seen. If so, you just went from the minor league to the major league in terms of the job. And if that's the case you are going to need a right angle extension for a drill and a "short" cobalt bit plus an extractor. If you get lucky that will be it. If you're not lucky you'll be pulling the head. Ask me how I know. Try not to bugger the threads on the head or you'll need a helicoil as well.

I would jack the body in the back up to the right height and see if anything changes in the front. I wouldn't think new shocks would make a difference. You probably have a number of things going on. Is there much rust on the ball joints?

A level surface would be a lot easier but you should be able to calculate the difference by accommodating for the driveway angle. Jeep tech note I.S. 14E explains how to check the ride height on a Comanche. They use the chassis and suspension not the hubs and flares Front: ------ Measure vertical distance between top of axle tube (looks like just inboard of the LCA mount) to the under side of the frame rail. For the passenger side, measure from the axle tube just outboard of the vacuum disconnect housing. For 2WD models the distance should be 6-3/4" +/- 1/2". For 4WD models the distance should be 7-3/4" +/- 1/2" Rear: ------ Measure from the top of the axle tube to the underside of the frame rail inboard of the rubber bump stop. For 2WD models the distance should be 8.2" +/- 1/2". For 4WD models the distance should be 9.2" +/- 1/2"

If you put it on the truck then to me it becomes about some designation apropos to the truck. Especially if it's just cruiser54. Pete at least implies some reference to a person. Future members unfamiliar with his contribution may well see Herby the Love Bug, not that I have anything against Herby. There's the truck and then there's the man! I'll stick with photo #1.

Contribution sent.

I like it just the way you have it in the first photo. The black flare contrast looks good and the 'Pete (Cruiser 54)' gives his real name and his handle, which I like as well. It's more about the tribute and not necessarily the accuracy of the details.

You need to allow for the hot expanded coolant to exit the radiator into an expansion tank. Somethings got to give when the coolant gets hot and right now it's the radiator cap. Best idea is to add an expansion tank some where. I used the closed system expansion tank but there are multiple ways of doing it.

Very sad news this morning. He was always helpful to anyone. Regards and well wishes to his family. He'll be missed!

I've been using Electronics for Dummies. 8 books in 1. Doug Lowe Has exercises you can do too. I've restored and upgraded several vintage preamps, turntables, and speakers using the book for technical understanding and some online tutorials for specific components. Good winter work when it's too cold for working on the Comanche.

Thanks, it is indeed one piece. I couldn't flex it enough either to get it over the dowel. Thought about removing dowels but wasn't sure they were removable. Didn't want to bugger them up. I removed the flywheel. I'm not sure I actually need a new one but I bought one ahead of time just in case. Guess I'm going to use the new one. The shield is so filthy I couldn't leave it on there with everything else now squeaky clean. Thanks.

Thanks, I'm half way there, transmission is out.

Thanks for that. Got the tranny out, half way there.