rokinn

Don't ya just hate premature jubilation.

In addition to the cap make sure the air is being properly purged from the system. Also check to make sure the O rings on the radiator are not leaking, even a little bit. You can lose pressure from there over time also. Make sure all of the hoses are tight.

I had SMS make me a headliner about 3 years ago. Fits well, looks good, easy to install, highly recommended. He has a lot of colors to choose from. I googled SMS headliners and it appears he has a 15% off until August 31. I did not take any photos of the seat process unfortunately. Something I should get in the habit of doing It's pretty straight forward. From earlier post: "I also got the two seating springs from each side. I zip tied the new springs overlaying directly onto the old one in my seat. I think I used close to 100 ct bag of the mini zips at every conceivable point it might shift out of alignment. I then used longer zip ties in an interlacing pattern so the convolutions in the double spring setup wouldn't allow for much separation between them. I then covered that with a heavy fabric, put the foam back and the seat covers on. The sag was reduced dramatically resulting in much better support. Finding the second set of springs for this is the challenge but I can imagine there are a few just sitting around left from those who have switched to buckets. Just another possible option for those wanting to keep a bench." You'll want some hog ring pliers and rings for the lower seat cover installation. I have buckets I will eventually install but for now the little dog needs a place to sit too and the middle of the bench is good for that.

I doubled up the springs with zip ties. Do a direct overlay and use small zips to hold it in place. I interlaced longer zips through the springs reducing the ability of the spring to extend downward. I gave a better description of how I did it in an earlier thread. Sits quite comfortably now. If I were to do it again I might even add stiff pad on top of the spring and under the foam. Good time to run the seat covers through washing machine too.

My Dana 44 rear with LSD (still sitting in the garage) that I picked from the JY came out of an 88 short bed, 2wd, 5/speed, 3.07 gears. Don't remember which tranny was in it and don't know if it was a stock or not but there it was.

I used this https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B001O7PNW8 to buff out the oxidation from my paint with a rotary buffer from Harbor Freight. It will cut down to factory primer or metal if you go at it long enough (which is quicker than one might think, I got a little thin in some places). I've rattle can painted some body work areas that I did and then rattle canned it with a good quality clear coat. I had to do a little buffing on the clear coat where it got a little orange peel finish to it on the hood where it's hard to get a real even finish. https://www.thepaintwarehouseinc.com/axalta-cromax-a-7480s-acrylic-trim-jam-clearcoat/ I get mine from a local auto paint supply store.

When I first got my truck it wandered like a sidewinder on hot asphalt. No DW yet thankfully. Over time I have replaced everything on my front suspension and steering except for the ball joints. Each thing has added to front end stability. First thing I did was pull the track bar on the axle side to see if the hole on the axle was wallowed out. It was! As a shorter term fix than welding a new bracket on, I had a hardened washer welded onto the outside of the bracket. Wasn't sure if I would keep the axle at the time or upgrade to 4wd. The track bar was also loose on the frame side (even after asking the alignment shop to check out the front end for me). My steering box was shot so I had it rebuilt with a ZJ worm gear (faster steering, much nicer). From the reviews I read, buying a remanufactured box often led to quick warranty replacement. I replaced the control arms with WJ control arms and that added to front end stability as well. The tie rod was straight when I bought it but bent just driving on bumpy dirt roads. Replaced it with the V8 ZJ tie rod. Added in The Cure as well. Also added a thicker sway bar and new end links. Each addition wasn't a cure, but in aggregate they produced a proper driving experience. Albeit not exactly a sports car ride. The steering box probably made the most difference as gogmorgo suggested.

Proper pedal pusher safety attire should be worn by the pedal pusher.

IIRC the relay is for the electric fan.

Article on EGR and its function http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/2012/05/don't-block-or-remove-the-egr-valve-its-saving-you-money/

If you decide on this one I'd like to know how it works for you. thx http://teamcherokee.com/door-to-body-opening-seal-jeep-cherokee-wagoneer-comanche-1984-1996/

I loved the photos of the Canadian Rockies. Really nothing like them, even the U.S. Rockies, which are still pretty fabulous. Want to take my MJ and cruise up there. Maybe visit some long lost relatives. My mother didn't realize she wasn't an American citizen until she tried to get a US passport later in life. My grandfather was a tree topper on Vancouver island during the depression where the younger half of her family was born. Thanks

Congratulations Don! I quit around 1982 or somewhere thereabouts (pack a day for 13 years, part of the "smoke em if ya got em" indoctrination). The trick for me (once I made up my mind I was going to quit) was never allowing myself positive thoughts about it. As soon as I noticed myself thinking this or that about desiring, needing, how good one would be with a beer now, or an after dinner smoke I would immediately cut it off. I would then replace the thought with a negative body sensation and how it would feel if I indeed did have another one, which I did a few times until I finally had it beat all together. I was a runner at the time and the times I did relapse the next time I went running my lungs would hurt like hell. That was the negative feedback memory I used until I no longer had any desire at all. The thought of having a cigarette even now and that sensation of my lungs hurting immediately comes back into memory. Just a strategy I used that worked for me. Costco has a liquid supplement called Ubiquinol. A more absorbable (for us older folks) form of CoQ10 which is a cellular enzyme which helps in the repair and health of the circulatory system. An MD once told a friend of mine who was taking statins for genetic heart disease and was also a former smoker that he should take as much Ubiquinol as he could afford.

IIRC you just pinch the retainers which will release it from the circular groove on the metal receptacle. The groove is toward the body of the cluster. Pull straight out or back and it should come out. All this being if you can get your hand in there. Mine has enough length on the cable if I pull on it. Yours looks like it has some rust on it (you do live in OR after all where everything either rusts or mildews, I speak from experience) so there may be rust on the end of the cable that inserts into the receptacle. Meaning you are going to have to pull hard.

I recently replaced my CPS with a high altitude one (we're high here in CO, I'm talkin' altitude now) . I had a mostly consistent stumble in my idle. When I pulled the CPS it was so filthy I'm surprised the motor ran at all. When I installed the new CPs it purred like a big ole cat. Might be worth pulling it just to clean it and see what happens.

In the late 1700's the region was known as the Northwest Territory (of the U.S.) later to become known as the Old Northwest. In some accounts I've read it was even referred to as The Great Northwest. That during the Daniel Boone, Simon Kenton, Tecumseh era.

I've used this thing to test whether my 12v car/rv batteries are good or not. The voltmeter can read proper voltage but the battery can still be bad. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-Electric-Battery-Tester-MS602H/202353291

http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Cam_Position_Sensor_aka_stator_Replacement.htm

Pete, do you have plans to be somewhere in particular when you arrive or shortly thereafter? You mentioned Estes Park. A M&G seems difficult for a Friday given people's work schedules, various locations and, traffic sucks big time Friday late day all up and down the Front Range. Saturday or Sunday seems easier to pull off.

My steering box was shot when I bought my MJ. Instead of buying a reman one (most reviews said they have a high failure rate) I had a local shop that specializes in steering gears rebuild it for me. I had him put in a faster worm gear from a ZJ. I had him check out the pump while he was at it. He said he lowered the pressure it was producing by about half, down to 9psi if IIRC. The higher pitched noise from it that was prevalent before was much diminished and I much prefer the feel in the steering now. That said, I have no idea how one changes the psi but it can be done which changes the sound it produces. No problems still 2 years later. Perhaps it's possible that high pressure is producing blow by. Mine was pretty oily before but relatively clean now.

OK, it appears I am now a member. FB is a mystery to me so I'll have to take some time to see what gives on CO CC, if anything.

I wasn't serious about the piano, not in the near term anyway. But thanks! I signed up for the CO Comanche club on Facebook just so I could see if there was any action with your upcoming visit. I haven't been back to get an update but will and let you know what I find out. I've only met one other Comanche person here (Yellaheep) and CC member Hypoid. Back atcha later.

I bought a self lighting license plate frame from AZ I think and just screwed it to the bumper and wired it to the original license plate lights. Works well so far.

I've got a piano that needs moving.

Depending on the logistics of the PW and attendees, you might be able to drop in Ft Collins and a CC member returning to Denver or points south, could drop you off at DIA for your flight. Maybe, maybe not. Just a thought.