mnkyboy

go here http://www.hellcreeksuspensions.com/ if you order on the site type comancheclub to get a discount or if you call Tom make sure to tell him your with the club to get the discount.

the full set. part#1192 IIRC

If you get a new aftermarket one make sure to try the cap on it before you install it,ive seen a few new ones that had sealing issues causing them to boil over. my XJ had an aftermarket one when i got it and i had nothing but problems out of it,i found a good OEM one at the JY and havent had an issue since

have these been verified to work on our trucks? took LT1 injectors about a week to start popping injector drive transistors in my ECU. any yellow top from a 5.0L or 4.6L ford will work, they are not bigger they are a more reliable Bosch design and have an improved injector nozzle over the factory injectors.

a garden hose,scrub brush,shop vac, and some soap works well. I did my EXP that way and it came out great. I have a carpet shampooer with an upholstery attachment you could borrow

mocked up one side last night with my homemade drop brackets and everything fit great. here's some pics of the arms

between the two i would get the rock krawler arms. I just went through this on my mj and in the end i went with RC X-flex adj uppers/lowers. they are very stout arms and have flex joints on the uppers and lowers. they were $307 with shipping from hell creek

I ended up ordering one from NAPA. I checked every parts store around and nobody had one in stock so i had to order it. seems everyone stocks everything for the 4.0L but not as much for the 2.5L

well thanks to Tom at hell creek my new control arms arrived today. I ended up going with the RC X-flex adjustable uppers/lowers,i can finally get the new axle in and get the truck off jackstands :thumbsup:

its only rated 15/20MPG with the new system, it was 17/22MPG with the old ratings http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/calculat ... =1&id=7172 28mpg is as good as alot of 4cyl economy cars from the same era. :nuts:

alot of these type of deals play out very well, i would go look at it. my trucks ad said "84 jeep pickup fourbyfour runs $400" it had no pics, i called the owner and they knew very little about it. i got curious and went to looked at it and drove home in a decent looking 89 shortbox 4X4 sitting on 31" tires :cheers: the best deals come from the people who don't know what they have.

Well my brothers got one more load then hes all moved in. so if anyone wants something done let me know,he also recently picked up a tire machine if anyone needs to swap some tires.

get some decals and cards from Pete.

If you look around alot of fabric shops sell actual headliner material it was about $20 for enough to do mine

I wouldnt recommend using super 77 for headliner adhesive,3m makes adhesive for headliners (Part #08090) it cost twice as much but will hold alot longer. i don't remember for sure but i think the super77 says its not suitable for headliners on the can.

If I get it in a can from NAPA, will I need to thin it for an HVLP system? Will this hold enough air for covering a Comanche?: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=65595 no,you would need a compressor. that tank would probably run a gun for maybe a minute,you need to hold about 25psi continuously at the gun. the paint will need reduced but reducer is also cheap,years ago i sprayed a sand rail with rustoleum and reduced it with paint thinner,it took forever to dry but it came out nice and cost me about $20.

Something along the lines of this? What would be a good source of paint? I assume I will need to purchase the paint and a hardener? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=44677 I would get a compressor if you don't already have one,its a good tool to have. for paint check out Napa they will set you up and the prices arent bad. for a gun I would get something like this they are about $20 and spray pretty good,not bad to start with. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=47016

I would get a cheap harbor freight paint gun and some cheap single stage equipment paint. you can also spray rustoleum from a gun if you thin it a little. If you are good with a can you will be better with a gun as you have far more control and the paint will lay alot better,it will also be much more durable.

he got close but didnt match it. You got a killer deal,the equivelent ironman arms are the same price as RC's. the ones you had price matched are not even close to what you got from RC

Alot of GM engines have HECHO in MEXICO cast all over them

If you get it i may be interested in the wiring harness

He still does work for RC, and if they could do that for you, I bet he could also. Rob L. I'm gonna have too contact him,if he can match those prices i will go that route.

ive been thinking about getting the RC adj arms,how did you get that price? :cheers:

i said easiest way not the best way. really unless your building a race car or plan to run alot of boost i don't think you would notice a difference,most OEM carb/turbo setups are draw through. I have seen VWs get into the 10s running draw though,its common on aircooled VWs for its simplicity. When i build a system i usually convert to MPFI and go blow through.

the mitsubishi 4g54 sohc in the starion/conquest was TBI and turbo. IMO the easiest way to turbo a 2.5L would be a draw though set up with a carb, but the best way would be a blow through setup and MPFI which is how I'm planning top do mine as soon as i can get converted to MPFI.