schardein

I think you’re getting me confused with someone else?

Everyone here is getting you on track. Don't be embarrassed to ask questions. The vents closing under load is a vacuum issue as others have stated. I'll just add that the football shaped vacuum reservoir behind the pass side of the front bumper... (see Cruiser's diagram) the vacuum line that runs to it must be disconnected when removing the front bumper, and it is very easy to forget to hook it back up after bolting the bumper back on... don't ask how I know.

I use the plastic push pins, or whatever they are called. They work well. Sourced from the junkyard, but can't remember from what, exactly. I know Chevy trucks 99-2006 use a similar clip on the plastic shroud over the radiator, under the hood. Whatever these came from, they fit perfectly.

Haha, you absolutely, 100% are. I don't even know what you're talking about. I wasn't referencing you in my post.

I remember tinting the windows of my Chevy truck as a teenager. Then, wanting to do a better job, and go with a darker tint, pulling the glass from the doors and doing it again. Fast forward to more recently, when I got my 1991 XJ, I stripped the tint off all the windows, partly because it was turning purple, but for the hatchback window, and front windows, I like being able to see out at night. Backing up that Chevy truck with heavily tinted windows at night was a gamble. On my XJ, I scored some factory privacy glass for the rear doors and rear quarter side windows. It does help with the summer heat.

Pretty much nailed it. Everyone's entitled to their opinion, right? LED light bars suck. Angry grills on Wranglers suck. Someday, people will look back and laugh, in the same way we look back now at 80s trucks with 8 KC daylighters on the roll bar with neon green light covers, and 8 shocks per axle with matching shock boots. That day can't come soon enough. I really enjoy looking at completely stock "survivor" or restored to original vehicles, especially square body Chevy trucks and Jeep CJs. I can understand the "purists" viewpoint. But I don't want to own one. I also get a kick out of people who build vehicles that are intended (or look like they are intended) for hard off road use, but put $$$$$ into body & paint work. I've experienced the $5k paint job and the scratched fender on the very first off road trip. Never again. It's so much more fun not to care about a scratch or dent. I think age and experience play a part in our preferences too. When I was in my early 20s, I drove a lifted K5 with 35" tires. I also competed in mud bogs regularly. At one point I was competing weekly. I see people buy brand new vehicles (not only Jeeps) and put 35" or bigger tires on to literally drive to the mall. It's all about looking cool I guess. I also recall driving an old Toyota truck with 35" bias ply tires, and replacing them with BFG 33" radials, and being completely awestruck by how much better the truck handled, accelerated, braked, better mpg, easier to get in and out of, and yes, even worked better off road... I had lot of fun in that truck, once I fixed all the previous owners (plural) "mods".

As mentioned, my truck left the manufacturer with no radio. When I got it, a "old school" shaft type radio had been installed. They'd done a fairly good job, I suspect it was dealer installed. They also cut holes in the door panels, in the factory location, to mount speakers, using the factory mounting holes. I went back, and added the rear speaker mounting brackets, rear speakers. Then I replaced the door panels with ones that had the factory speaker grills and mounted the door speakers directly to the door, as factory. The speaker wires to the doors run through a rubber tunnel that goes from the cab to the door, near the door hinges. This is to protect the wires and keep the doors and cab somewhat sealed from the elements. When my radio was installed, they simply poked holes in the plastic covers on those holes, rather than adding the rubber tunnels. First pic is the day I bought my truck. If you look at the very left of the picture, you can see the plastic hole cover and the wires coming through. Next pic is with the rubber tunnels added. You can source the rubber tunnels from any similar year Cherokee, or Comanche if you can find one. 1985-1996 Cherokee. I don't know if the 97-01 Cherokees are the same, I suspect not since the doors are different.

If you are using the 1999+ intake manifold, you need the 1999+ power steering pump bracket. Older version does not work. I prefer the later as it's easier to adjust the belt. Loosen the pulley nut and the adjustment bolt is on top, sort of near the water neck. Versus the old style with 3 or 4 bolts to loosen, and the adjustment bolt on the bottom, blocked by the air box.

I have read a lot of similar things, some work great, others have problems. My Silverado 2500hd has HB from the factory. I put HB in my CJ7 using a Astro van HB and MC, ebay firewall bracket, and the 5.3 motor I used came from a Yukon XL equipped with HB, so the pump had two return nipples, and if they are valved differently (I don't know if they are), it should be correct. Custom made some hoses and it works perfectly. Brake lines even screwed into the MC with zero mods. Big upgrade over the stock CJ single diaphragm booster, and the YJ dual diaphragm booster I swapped and used for several years before the HB.

First pic is an aluminum 2.5 valve cover removed from a 1995 YJ. Second pic is an aluminum valve cover removed from a TJ. They are the same except the TJ one has three bosses along the length of the cover on the driver side, that are drilled and tapped. However, there was nothing in them when I removed it, and I don't know what they are for. The YJ one doesn't have the bosses. Both were junkyard grabs, so no idea if they were original. The YJ one was filthy. I spent hours cleaning that darn thing. 3rd pic was after soaking overnight and 30 minutes of scrubbing. TJ one was basically soak and rinse. Change your oil!

I have three 1991 4.0HO engines (XJ, MJ, and another that was in my CJ at one time, and is now on a stand). I swapped all three to the later stamped steel valve cover, with threaded type of oil fill cap, Fel-Pro "blue" rubber coated steel core gasket, and slightly rerouted PVC/CCV hoses. They also all have the later rounded style intake manifold (which requires the matching later style power steering pump bracket, which is simpler in design and easier to adjust the belt), replacement aftermarket exhaust manifolds with the "bellows" on the outer tubes (which don't crack like oem), 4 hole fuel injectors, deleted heater core diverter valve, and 1996+ throttle bodies that have the MAP sensor mounted directly on the throttle body which eliminates the one on the firewall and eliminates a vacuum line. You can extend the wires of the existing connector, or build a short extension harness. You can also leave the original MAP in place as a back up spare. These were all mods done to the motor that was in the CJ, which became my "template" for the XJ and MJ.

I see you want a simple bolt on fix, but if it turns out you need to swap boosters to get a larger master cylinder, at some point perhaps it makes sense to swap to a Hydroboost system. Many came on 3/4-1 ton trucks as oem, so the MC will be a good match for 1 ton axle/brakes.

A small portion of my stash.

What made it worse (to me), was when I bought the XJ used, it was missing that cover & clips, and a few other items (notably, the chrome trim that says "Wagoneer" on the rear hatch over the license plate), which over time I sourced from junkyards. They were a little easier to find back then, but I was still pretty angry because I'd went through the effort to replace them. I probably still have that receipt somewhere (I keep everything haha, like the title of this thread), I should look for it and see if my memory is right.

I think I've posted this story before, but here goes: I used to own a 1989 Jeep XJ Wagoneer, black with the woodgrain and four headlights. It started stalling, and I ended up taking it to the dealer. Of course it turned out to be the CPS, which they replaced, also found a broken driver side motor mount, replaced, charge $100 total , which I was pretty happy with. Paid, walked outside, and thought, let me just take a look... and the renix relay cover and nuts were missing. Went back inside and raised holy hell with the manager, who walked into the mechanic bay. I watched through the window as he spoke to the mechanic, who walked over to the TRASH CAN and pulled out my parts. Last time I took a car to the dealer, 1998.

Pass side, nut on the inside.

Your picture looks like a complete set of brackets. Do you also have the nuts and bolts? Specifically, number 33 in the diagram is a special nut made to fit the large hole on inside pass side mounting point.

It's funny (odd) how some cars have quirks like this. In the past, I drove a PT Cruiser and if you had the windows part way down there would be a "whumpa-whumpa" wind effect in the cabin, like a helicopter. It was even mentioned in the owner's manual that this was normal and not a defect. In my heavily modded CJ, I have a high frequency buzz at a very specific speed and rpm, right before shifting from 2nd to 3rd, lasts a couple seconds. I always wonder if the next mod will alter or stop it.

I have a 1/4 Snap-On ratchet, and 3 Craftsmans. I also have this swivel head HF. The HF is my hands down favorite, I carry it in my junkyard bag. I use it when I should be using a 3/8 ratchet. I beat on one for at least 7 years and then left it on a Suburban at the Pick-n-Pull in St Louis (Merry Christmas to somebody) (also the reason I don't carry my Snap-On ). Next trip to HF I bought another one (mine have green handles). I'd be surprised if the ICON tools weren't good.

Early trucks, 1990 and older I think, the headlight bezel is two pieces, like yours. also, the trim pieces above and below the grill are metal and separate pieces. 1991 and up, the headlight bezel is one piece. The grill is also one piece, with the upper and lower trim molded into it. The front header panels themselves are also shaped different in that outer turn signal area. I can't remember the details now, but I've had problems mixing pieces from different years, they didn't fit. I don't know about the quality of aftermarket pieces for the early design, but I know that aftermarket headlight bezels for the later one piece design don't fit well. One is better off finding an original piece.

I got lucky and scored a box of about 12 Craftsman plastic rails like in the picture at an estate auction. They work well, especially for 1/4 and 3/8. I also have a Kobalt that is an aluminum rail that I like. But, I rarely carry 1/2" drive stuff to the junkyard. The times that I do, I have a small heavy canvas zip bag that I use. It was once a shaving kit/hygiene bag. It's not big enough to carry a full rail though. I cherry pick the ones I'll need and load them in the case. I've never done it, but if I needed to take a full set, I have my 1/2" drive ratchet, short and long extension, and normal (short) standard and metric sockets in a hard plastic case. The case is generic, and I think it was an item once sold at Sears. On a totally separate but sorta related note, I recently purchased a Dewalt DCF899HB (high torque 20v 1/2 impact) It's been on my mind since you said you liked yours during your visit. I'm very happy with it, It's already proven its worth. I might just get a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter and put some warranties to the test

Yep. Low mileage doesn't mean much to me if it isn't original. Us 91 owners know those stripes aren't right. It was a radio delete option truck. No radio from the factory. How do I know? Look at the pictures of the doors open. There is no rubber tunnel going from the cab to the door. The holes are covered by large plastic hole plugs. The installers just pierced those and ran the wires through with no protection (typical level of care is right). I know this because my truck was the same way, even had the door panels cut to install the speakers. I suspect mine was dealer installed. I went back and replaced my door panels, and added the rubber tunnels. Makes me wonder if a lot of 91s were that way. I'm always on the lookout for 91-92 models, but if they have the 4 cylinder, I'm not interested. My opinion is it could be a nice truck to drive if the owner takes the time to fix the right things. But it isn't a "survivor" by any stretch. Way overpriced, but if the owner is happy...

I recently had this exact problem on my XJ. Swapped several boxes while testing it in the workshop. None of them seemed to work, and I found that strange, I doubted both of my spares were bad/or suddenly went bad. Then I took it for a drive, and it worked. I think it's got to be a ground or poor connection issue somewhere in the circuit.

I can't tell by your post where you stand on the issue, but consider this. If there was a wide sweeping ban on what are now commonly owned personal firearms, and door to door collection was initiated, the number of fatalities from that effort would make the number of mass shooting victims in America's history pale by comparison. And probably more than half of those would be "innocents", people, who before the ban, had never committed a violent crime in their life, but are now criminals because they own guns. I agree that lives lost to criminals murdering them is a tragedy. If you want to protect school children from violent armed criminals, ask a politician how he or she is protected from violent armed criminals- the answer is "men with guns". Ask yourself this question: If all personally owned firearms were outlawed, do you think politicians would still have armed guards? The answer is yes. And not a single one of them are better than me. I am entitled to the same level of protection. This is where the argument that silencers, automatic weapons, large capacity magazines should be available to everyone stems from. Also, any journalist that uses the term "assault rifle" is a clown.