91Pioneer

Well I popped off my oil fill cap today to inspect. It's surprisingly clean in there, no visible sludge. Some baked on black stuff but better than I was expecting. Since I had a half a can of Seafoam sitting around, I added about 1/4 of the can into the crankcase. I didn't want to put too much in there as I don't plan on changing the oil soon. Maybe once it starts getting colder I'll put more Seafoam in soon before I change it and go to 5W30 for winter.

What's the torque value of the pinion nut when you don't have a crush sleeve? Does anyone have tips on removing/installing the pinion and/or nut? This is all new to me.

Those are not OEM Eliminator wheels, they are aftermarket.

I've added Seafoam to the gas tank and used it on the vacuum line (on my car), I've never tried adding it to the oil.... hmm......

So... took a 40 mile drive today... I think I need a new pinion seal, what do you think? LOL My plan of attack: 1. Check axle vent rubber hose, clear as necessary. 2. Buy new pinion seal & synthetic fluid. 3. Fix it. From what I've read the 88's did not use a crush sleeve (used shims on the pinion instead) so that makes things easier. I tell ya every time I fix one thing I notice something else.

So I have the nice new PermaDry valve cover gasket for my 88 4.0. I want to change it soon because after a drive on the highway I can smell the oil burning off the exhaust. Anywho, I have the new gasket, and I will also cut down the breather vents as per cruiser's instructions. The thing is I know that the underside of the valve cover most likely has sludge and crap built up on it. Considering my truck wasn't taken all that great care of by previous owners, I was thinking that I'd put in some sort of "engine flush" and run it for maybe 100 miles or whatever prior to taking the cover off, in the hopes of cleaning up that valve cover. I've seen the quick flushes where you dump it in the crankcase, then idle the engine for 15 minutes, and drain. Well I want something I can add to the engine and not have to change the oil right away. The oil is fairly fresh as it is. What is a good product to add in there, and keep in there for another couple thousand miles? Yeah I know, don't overfill the engine.

When you're talking OBD-II you need to use a proper scan tool (buy one if you will use it lots in the future) and then look up the codes @ http://www.obd-codes.com/

So did you block off the EGR tube? That's the tube that your original manifold had a spot for.

Nice!

I have an '88 4.0L without A/C and it has the electric fan.

But, what if you do cruiser's "CPS timing advance mod". Then there should be benefits from higher octane, no?

That truck was listed on another site for sale, there's a recent thread here. The seller on craigslist doesn't mention the ventilation holes on the box in front of the rear wheels. Rust so bad the box is gone, you could put your hand through them nearly if I remember right. Nice truck tho.

Bitchin' you should make that pic your avatar here.

Thanks. I have a cracked manifold, I've read mixed reviews on the Dorman one. However the bad reviews seem to be from years ago, better reviews recently, so I think they fixed the main problem which was the EGR tube not fitting well.

Is that the Omix-Ada exhaust manifold? Did it fit well and seem like good quality?

Nice truck, I really like those Hunter Green MJ's!

Also looking for black manual passenger side mirror (maybe you'll see one off an XJ)

I might be interested in the black driver side manual mirror and the drivers side front marker light, if they're in good shape (no cracks, etc.). Still got access to this one? PM me, I'm one province over.

That sucks. I know my blood would boil if I worked at a junkyard and saw all the classic and good cars that get crushed.

Decals normally don't go under the clear. If you really want the stripes under the clear, let a body shop paint the stripes on before the clear goes on (custom paint). Actually, a good body shop might refuse to paint clear over the decals...

The one-size-fits-all MJ Tech forum just doesn't cut it for me. It could easily be broken into a few different forums and it would be a lot more user friendly. Sometimes I like to browse the forum but it's a nightmare when everything is under one category.

Oh hell yeah tell me about RockAuto & shipping to Canada.... sometimes it's OK, sometimes it's a train wreck. Anywho, you have the correct part number (here's a cross reference list for ya): Manufacturer CORTECO Number 497342P Description Full Gasket Set, engine Cross numbers REINZ 082400802 GOETZE / CAC 2224777010 AJUSA 54023700 RENAULT 7701467612 ELRING 984737 PAYEN GH080 GLASER S30961 GLASER S31614

Well get rid of the TJ & GC's, that would help LOL

Things will be pretty obvious after you get the panel off.

Here's the old one I took out, bent a bit.