xjrev10

I have lots. But I gave up on photobucket a year ago and haven't really found another way to post pics. Hells, Fins, Pickle, Mashed Potatoes, Poison Spyder, Golden Spike, Gold Bar, and a few others like Chicken Corners and Shafers we did also.

Any excuse to go to CO... :)

I'm beginning to believe the 97-01 2 door XJs are more rare then MJs.. Crank windows too! Score!

I'm with cruiser on that. I'd take a pass or offer $100.

Pack it full of heavy grease and jam something in there. The hydraulic pressure will push it out. Look in a Haynes manual. It will show you how.

Plain old parts store special for me. They don't last very long getting used as skid plates.

Last hear.... Smokers moving in?

You can use WJ outers to get the bigger brakes. You'll need different lower ball joints, WJ knuckles, and WJ steering linkage. Probably new hubs and adapter spacer if needed. Here's some discussion on it. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75157 It in my long list for my MJ.... I run 5x5 wheels already.

The rubber gasket is a cleaner look. :shotsfired:

Put a cheater pipe on it and bend it to fit carefully. Mine sprung when I had my manifolds off this winter too.

Those engines are all over the place. Shouldn't be too bad to get your paws on one.

Cruiser I ordered a new one today for $42. My truck actually has the 4 pin connector also in the harness. Always wondered what it was for. I suppose it's the same harness for both autos and manuals and that 4 pin is just not used in the manual trucks. I suppose I could plug it in for a cleaner look.

Lol!!

All right. Thank you sir for all your help. Much appreciated. This thing has frustrated me to no end for the past few weeks.

Ok. You win. I was confused from the start so I didn't read the last paragraph. I'm still confused about it. So the new one for a auto comes with a different connector?

See Post 8 in my Tips and save a boatload of $$. I've read it 10 times. Are you saying it could be just out of adjustment? Or I will be able to see that it's bad before I buy a new one? I'm confused.

I did a HNT also when I did my conversion. Had a custom shaft built with heavier wall tubing to the tune of $300ish.

That's what 2 different parts stores quoted me for a new one. 88 with a manual trans.

So at day's end I'm About 200 miles with mine disconnected. When is it needed? Will it cause problems? Don't disconnect the battery? Spend $130 on a new one? Leaving for a 2 week wheeling trip next week and fuel prices are on the rise.....

The tune up parts you're mentioning should be replaced with the plugs every 30,000 miles. Plugs are new. Painted over the others when I had the engine out a few weeks ago. I unplugged my TPS, started the truck and just got home from a 140 mile trip and it didn't act up once. So I'm debating on dropping the cash for a new one...

I'm having sort of the same issue.... I was just gonna post a thread. All new grounds, yellow injectors, no vacuum leaks, all connectors tight... New fuel filter, pressure regulator... Getting frustrated. I don't have a tach but it seems like around the same rpm all the time.. Next plan is new cap/rotor/wires/coil. Plugs are new..

You will not find a sending unit new.

Original "snow-mobile"

Chunk of change for a 2.hate. But...... I have seen many go over 200k. If you're patient and like screwy things, (actually high tech for its day) have at it. I bought a rust free 2.8 a few years ago that ran and drove nice for $1300. But of course that's in my area. Different locals command different prices.

A brand new jeep would be "another project?" F that! I'd drive the wheels off it factory fresh and enjoy the warranty!