Automan2164

The trans and t-case yes, engine I don't think so. You have an HO, thats a Renix. Rob L.

Did you just take out the front shaft or what? Rob L.

Its not completely seized... it works, I don't have any unusual wear showing excessive tire scrub, normal turns are ok. The only time it is noticeable is when I have to cut it hard to get into a parking spot. I wouldn't think I would be able to run without a front D/S without having a 242. I am just looking for reasons why the ZJ would have just ate 2 bearing sets since I have owned it(1 front and 1 rear). Maybe its just common is these ZJ axles? :dunno: I know they arent exactly known for strength. Rob L.

Could you explain? I was thinking that the constant binding (although its really not bad, YET) always hammering the bearings might have caused them to fail? :dunno: How could the bearings cause the VC to fail? Rob L.

Hey, just a thought, could my roasted bearings be a result of my bad viscus coupler in the 249? Rob L.

Ended up being the pinion I didnt have time to repair. I couldn't get the crush sleeve to crush with the 260 ft lb... So i just tightened it down in increments until I had zero endplay, and about 15 inch pound of rotational force. Think I am good. Its so quiet in there you can hear a pin drop now. :yes: Well, that and the sounds of the rear pinion starting to go out... :ack: Rob L.

Drain the pan, sop up any water you can. If its on the cylinders, its probably in the crankcase too. Once you get everything back together, I would run it for like 250 miles, and change the oil again if your that worried. Rob L.

If I get the problem hammered out with the ZJ, count me in +trailer if needed. Rob L.

I am assuming this water didn't come from you taking the head off? Rob L.

It made the noise while it was up on the rack also. Definately in the front end. At this point, I am just going to assume that the pinion bearings are bad. :dunno: Ordered up the races and bearings, as well as the crush sleeve I could only get dealer-side. I knew I should have just done the pinion's to begin with, but they didn't have them in stock, and I already had everything apart. :( Oh and its an NP249 :ack: I wish I had a NP242... Rob L.

See, that's what I don't get. That was one of the FIRST things I checked with it acting like it is. They are both pretty tight, with no grinding or freeplay on the ground. Rob L.

Rob L.

Well, an oil change at work today turned into an all evening extravaganza. I pulled my ZJ into the shop and put it up on the hoist, to find I had left the oil at home :roll: , so I figured I would take a look at the front end, which had been making a growling noise while low speed turning, and bearing howl high speed. Got it up, threw it in drive, and let the AWD do its thing. Definately coming from the front end. Get the diff cover off to be met with a HUGE amount of silver fluid (which I kinda expected), and a caked up magnet. Took the carrier out, and found a roasted P/S carrier bearing (pitted, and galled bearings). No big deal, just called and got a set of carrier bearings, races and seals. :D Got everything out and off, cleaned it up, drove the new seals in, and pressed on the new bearings with the shims as they were when I took them out. Checked out the rotation of the pinon, felt smooth, and good in rotation. CV shafts felt tight, with no tears in the boots. Unit bearings felt smooth also. Put everything back in, torqued the caps, and RTV'd the cover on while I got the axles back in and brakes put back together. Filled 'er up with lube, and dropped it down. As soon as I backed out, I knew I had made no difference. Still howling at constant speed (like a high pitch bearing drone). And at low speed, when turning it sounds like there is gravel in the front end, and is kind of on-off-on-off. Changes with the speed of the turn. :ack: At this point, I am at a loss. :dunno: Everything on the front end seems good, and the front D/S is a newer CV/DC shaft about 5 months old. I am here to ask if anyone has some ideas... I thought I would have it licked with the carrier bearing (since I DID pull off a bad bearing and you could feel it when I was spinning it in my hand, and had visible wear). :fs1: Is there a break in period for the new carrier bearings? Also, the diff fluid doesn't even seem to come up to the carrier bearings, which seemed weird to me. I would have thought that they would at least be part way under the fluid. Vehicle is a '98 Grand Cherokee ZJ, 4.0L, 42RE, AWD. LP Dana 30 front. Any ideas? Rob L. :wall:

still need to know about this stuff '97 up axles off of a TJ will bolt in. YJ's are spring over. It will work, but not without welding and work. Should be same size throughout. 2WD axles are different that 4WD axles. But generally 4WD axles go right in. Rob L.

Worked for me fine. I ran that combo for a few years. Better than 3.07's... :ack: Rob L.

No AC :) I have a supply of R-12 so I'm not converting yet. Unless your nursing a loss over years, I would try to locate the leak. Might just be blowing money away otherwise. ;) Especially if its been uncharged and open for awhile. Moisture will reap havoc in an a/c system. Rob L.

Looks to be missing some rear glass also... Who knows how much water got in after the "hail". Top over the driver/passenger is MIA. Might have extensive rain damage in the inside too. Rob L.

Reason for recharging? Rob L.

I always measure from a solid stationary part on the tie rod(or TRE to TRE on the big trucks) and go from that point to the center of the grease fitting. That way, if the sleeve of the new joint is longer or shorter, essentially, the stud should be directly under the grease fitting either way, and net the same measurement. Or you could spend the $50 and get it aligned. ;) Rob L.

Water in the fuel tank? Had enough gas to get it going in the lines, drew in water little by little, until it couldn't sustain on it, and then died? Will it run with some gas in the TB? :dunno: Rob L.

The differental level should bleed over to the CAD area. When you took of the CAD, you probably lost a little, not much. It might take a bit for it to work its way over to the CAD. I would make sure the level is good, drive it for a day, and check it again. After that, I wouldn't worry about it. Rob L. :thumbsup:

Yep, that's what the factory plow equipment looks like. I have one in the garage... ;) . I don't know of any MJ service trucks (I keep my eye out since I am a firefighter), but I do know Twin lakes, WI just re-listed their '84 j truck on ebay for 5K(9,000 original miles!): http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250461935277 Thought about fashioning a fire MJ out of my project, buy painting the truck and wheels red and a white decal... I already have the blue lights, I have a fire radio, and a siren, but I don't want to change the paint from metallic grey. Rob L.

Play is measured in thousanths (0.00X), using a dial indicator. "A little" I still too general. Sorry... Can you take pics of the carrier/spiders? Rob L.

:thumbsup: Rob L.

Don, myself a fan of simplicity, have you ever considered ditching the decals? I know beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but I just think if you lost that, it would be perfect. As is, the stripe draws you into the center of the side of the truck, where there isn't much going on. Its just eye catching I guess, and I would rather br drawn to the front or back... Am I nutz? But if you asked me, all vehicles would have AMBER turn signals, RED tail lights, black steel wheels, and RWL tires. I am supposed to be looking at the vehicle, not the flashy rims, euro lights, bolt ons and decals. Simplicity is king. Or maybe I am just crazy. Usually I'm not a big fan of chrome, you did a nice job with it though, and I like your truck exactly like it sits, but that decal just destracts me. Rob L.