Automan2164

:agree: :rotf: :yes: :doh: Rob L.

Note: After hitting control +whatever, and closing the tab on accident, I am re-writing this. It was a lot longer. Got the truck home on saturday, took some pics, and finally got it up on the stands today. Let me just say at least it has a good engine. Because after looking over the truck, its going over like a silent movie at a school for the blind. Here is some quick pics, more at my picture trail site. http://picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/21838425 Short list: 4.0L, 5 Speed (Peugot :fs1: ), NP231, D30, D35. The good: (Pretty short huh?) 78,000 Original miles. Drives(ed) like a dream. Felt great at 65MPH. Bed is in very good shape compared to most. Factory Jeep/Meyer 6.5FT Plow. Sliding back window. New exhaust, collector back. The Bad: PEUGOT. D30, D35, Cab has usual rot, cab corners, and floorboards. (Everything proximal to the p/s front spring, details coming) Front springs are shot due to plow. Speedo stopped working on way home. Idiot light cluster. Non wing windows. Chrome bumpers. Factory plow mounts. Needed a driveshaft to get it home. Manifold exhaust leak, be it gasket of cracked pipe. Fuel tank leaks. The story: Just picked it up last saturday. Bought it from a guy who owned it for a year, only used it to plow snow. He bought it from the O.O. who only used it to plow his driveway(explains the low miles :thumbsup: ). I looked it over, liked what i saw, generally. Silver, bed in good shape, low miles, factory plow(my personal downfall, like blinders on a darn horse), runs good. Guy twisted off the shaft and drove it home on the front, about six blocks. Decided to sell with broken shaft, wanted a bigger truck. Offered $940, and he accepted. Got a new shaft, Drove it home, drove great, until the 6 inch curb in front of my driveway. As soon as it hit the lip of the curb backing in, the P/S front spring perch let loose, and took a projectile path. Took out the trackbar mount, the sway bar link mount, steering stabilizer, and everything in the proximal area. UGH. :wall: Floors will need the steel bin and attention from a welder, as well as the cab corners. Finally got it up on stands today, only to find well, the best way to put it is... "Does anyone want to buy (buy, ha!) a set of 3.07 axles!?!?!?!?!?!?!!!!!!" :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: The plan: Late model D30 up front, Chryco 8.25 in back, 4.10 gears, limited slip. 33" Meats, Black steelies. New transmission of the AX variety. S.O.A. Spray on bedliner. Wing winders. Full cluster. Leather XJ seats. Center console from squad car for cb's, radios, siren, and emergency light controls (I am a vol firefighter/emt, need to get and go) (Plus lights are just durn cool!). Remount plow mounts. Custom bumpers. And I am also looking to you guys for input. Think I could make it better? Let me know! Essentially, I want a truck with 33" tires, able to weekend wheel, plow duty in winter, and general get around otherwise. Must have a limited slip. I am open to any suggestions. Time is not an issue, i am not afraid of a little fab (no custom four links...etc.) money is an issue, which is why i was leaning towards the D30/8.25. Its all I need for what i am planning, i assume. If you think you have a part i might be interested in, please PM me. If your in my area, Il/Wi border, give me a shout! Have beer, will travel. Check out pics of my garage and my daily driver, as well as my toys in my pictrail. Also will post my Cj-8 scrambler for sale soon. After all, I will need some sort of cash flow available for the mj. Sigh. Let me just tell you one thing though, I thought it was hard finding rear mj parts... Ha! Finding stuff for the rear frame and body on that thing, forget about it! :grrrr: Anyone, 3.07 axles? :rotfl2: Let me know what you think. Rob L.

By two piece i mean the custom installation of 20 years of rust and that ever so slight application of "too much torque" :doh: The PO twisted it in to and nursed it home on the front shaft. Rob L.

I have thought about it. I just might. i stil don't have either front or rear axles at the moment, so I am open to most anything. I was just looking at it from a cost perspective. I'd think I could pick up a 8.25 for less than a 8.8. Dunno. Figured that for what i need it for, (snow plowing, mild offroading) a 8.25 would be all the strength i would need at an affordable price. I am just on the fence on this D30 I found. don't know if its worth investing the cash... I would like to change gears. Maybe I should just wait for the right ratio... Rob L.

Hey all, just picked up a new toy on saturday (pics and background on it to come), but am looking for a new set of axles. I have the opportunity to get ahold of a '99 D30 out of a cherokee w/3.55 gears and 90k. Comes complete with everything rotor to rotor, control arms, stock springs and all the works. Asking $175. My question is, is this a good enough deal to jump on? :dunno: I kinda wanted to wait around for a better gear ratio, so i am kinda wanting to pull the trigger on this. Not sure if its worth it for what i have planned. I want to gear change/new CA's with a lift anyway so... Also in the market for a 29 spline 8.25... anyone? :brows: End project will have 33" tires. Drivetrain is 4.0l - 5 speed peugot :doh: . Thanks, Rob L.

I knew i should have asked on the board... Nah only reason i asked is because i just picked up my MJ out of janesville, and one of the stipulations was it had a two piece driveshaft that was supposed to be a one piece. :fs1: I just had a local drivetrain shop make me a new one... Oh well. I have pics to post of the new horse, just can't get them on... If only my 10 year old digital camera and my brand spanking new laptop could speak the same language. :shake: Rob L.

Would this jeep be in the Janesville, Wi area? Rob L.

Pretty much the one thing you need to grab to make this style work. The temperature sensor behind the grill. Thats really the only outside source you need. These things will run with just power and ground. I think if i remember right there is five-six wires. Two will be signal from the temp sensor, one will be batt +, one will be Ground, one is power from the lights, and one is ign, i believe. You should be able to find the wiring connector breakdown in the FSM or online. Rob L.

It is hard to put any kind of a load on them while they are out of a car, but you can always spin the input shaft, and shift into each gear to make sure the output shaft spins. you might be able to both front and rear outputs spinning in first gear 4x4... Thats pretty much the best you can do. Also look into the trans, and look for brass shavings, hinting at syncro damage. most gears will probably fight you a little to get in, but they should get in ok. Fluid color and condition could be a great indicator. Rob L.

Whats the easiest way to tell the 27 and 29 spline 8.25 axles apart? I'm going to be in the market myself here for an axle swap this summer. Rob L.

I welcome them also. Like i said once we were all new somewhere. And one of my rules is "The only stupid question is the one not asked." I would rather have someone ask about death wobble for the 3,000 time than have them be afraid because we roasted the last guy on a fire for asking a question already answered, than not ask and end up with catastroptic failure. We are here to help. Lets do it. If it bothers you move on, and someone else will have the chance to lend a hand. Rob L.

What if we made another board page, something like "common issues" and just sticky all of the post that we find come up often there. Out of sight for the rest of us, but it could be a useful area for someone who needs to know something. I also understand that it is a pain to repeat ourselves all the time but we kind of are all here to help the greater good. Someone needs help and we help them. We don't need to create a stigma about how we are a bunch of pricks who will jump on you becasue you didnt see an old thread, or are new and just want to ask a question for the first time. We have all been new once. Rob L.

IIRC, in illinois in order to drive it, it has to have a free and clear title. I tried some loopholes once, ended up at a wall. Unless things have changed. So for me, a repair title might as well mean un-repairable or salvage.

http://tinyurl.com/c445l3 Title kind of explains itself. Very cool, but too bad it has a repair title, and was welded together not just converted. Rob L.

From what i can remember, door locks are cake. Held in by a retainter clip from the inside, just disconnect the rod and pull out. Finding a jeep with keys to get lock cylinders is a tad harder. Ill have to have someone chime in on the ignition. Never done one of those. Rob L.

Lol, sorry to steal your thunder James, Long time member coming back from the abyss here. Just trying to warm up to all you new guys... I kinda helped pete with the switch to the forum from yahoo, and well started chasing girls and a diesel ram. I'm back though, and have a new purchase. Ill post pics and junk after I pick it up on sat. I am the originator of www.comanchemj.1hwy.com . Rob L.

There has to be at least 1 deg of ds angles, because without that small amount of difference, the bearings won't rotate enough in the caps, leading to wear spots and reduced life. A zero angle wouldnt keep the bearings moving unless you are constantly cycling the suspension and changing the angle. Rob L.

If i can recall, i might know someone who actually might have all materials needed to complete. There are a couple of sections of firewall that are different(according to him) so he actually has the cut out sections to weld in. Interior only, but complete. Out of a rolled 01 with 920 miles on it. Let me check and get back to you. Rob L.

Just had a tune up? Start simple, if you havent already. Air filter, fuel filter, check gap... No speedo, are you sure on the milage? Rob L.

If you are worried about the odo reading correct, there is a way to do it with some ingenuity... I know pics would help here but stick with me. When i first did the swap i tried rolling them back by hand (not smart). Turns out that on the backside of the odo there is this little wafer thing. I could best describe it as a very thin computer board. It has little holes that key up to metal spacer rings between each number. roll forward, they roll fine. Try to go back, and you break the wafer board and the whole thing free spins. Take the cluster apart, and remove the wafer board. Since you can get to this wafer, you should now be able to roll the digits to whatever you want, and re-install the wafer. If you break it like i did :fs1: , i cut the same size piece out of a plastic q tip box, cut slits into it, and install it in place of the wafer. Works great. :thumbsup: Rob L.

To be honest, I would just go and get the rebuilt. They have been gone through, and as long as you buy from a reputable place, will be just as good as new. Plus if you want, you could rebuild the one if you don't turn it in(core?) and have it as a spare. Rob L.

Just a test to see if mine works...