cracker

Probably cause it is the HO model :dunno:

I am interested for sure. I can't find OEM lights anymore thyat don't look hammered so this will be a nice upgrade :)

x10

You can swap the rod but there is no need. For 5 minutes of work, redrill out the hole on the WJ rod to the same diamter (as the XJ rod, don't recall the size). Then take your grinder and make the flat spot for the brake light switch. If you grind too much need not worry. Just weld a bead on it and do it again :) This is how I did mine. Good luck.

You get what you pay for in regards to tool boxes. ;) You mentioned a chest and that is what I use. I have a Weatherguard Chest but I wanted one in steel as they seem to hold up better to a ton of tools and trail spares. This is what I have and I LOVE it: On my SuperDuty I have a Delta Pro box and it is super nice as well and it is too steel for the same reasons above. This one has a REALLY cool locking mechanism and is really durable. I have had this one for three years now :chillin: I have owned the cheaper brands of tool boxes and I am super unimpressed (i.e Delta Basic, Husky, Contico, DuraLast, etc). The locking and latch mechanisms are crappy and the aluminum cracks easy with my usual load. I would HIGHLY recommend NOT getting a low profile alloy tool box like this as there is not enough material to support the weight of the goods stored in there. These can last about 6 months for me and I even stack 2x4s under them to give them added support. The circles are where it cracks (bad). Good luck and let us know what you choose.

I'm confused. Can I see a picture of it installed and the other side of the crossmember?

:doh: You do realize that Deaver makes everything custom to order? They will make anything for what you and your application need. Deaver really knows their stuff and they are HUGE into the Jeep Speed world. They even make leaf packs for other vendors (i.e. Currie). This whole thread has me scratching my head......I hope Crazy Jim chimes in here but leaves for Jeep Speed need to hold up to an amazing amount of punishment. Beleive it or not, leaves WITH an arch are better for Jeep Speed as opposed to flatter leaves. They will ride better at high speed and the will resist being over flexed better. Once a leaf pack is flexed too far it'll just, well, die. Longer leaves (which is what this thread is about) will potentially flex more (than shorter leaves) which is better for rock crawling but doesn't make sense to me in the world of Jeep Speed as flex is secondary to hard impacts and quality of travel. I have met VERY few that know more about leaf springs than Scott and Jeff at Deaver. Just pick up the phone and tell them you have a Comanche and you want a leaf pack for Jeep speed. They might ask questions as to your specific rig but for the most part they will know exactly what you need. They are pricey (maybe more than linking your rear end) but your have it done right and if not, they'll rebuild and change the pack for your needs.

Good man. Post up when you have it all installed. Let us know what you think.

Go to Bosch's website and read up on the maximum wattage permitted. I actually run a HID H-3 in my super duty so that may be an option. I grew up in East Tennessee and when that fog comes in, I don't care what lights you have, we couldn't see at all. Good luck.

:dunno: Does the 231 have a CV on the rear? I had a burned up CV joint but it only made the noise when in 2wd. In 4wd the front wheels would pull and releive the pressure on the rear drive line and it wouldn't make the noise. To be honest with you, I would find it hard to believe it is the TC but stranger things have happened. I would ASSUME there is something else going on.

:huh???: You won't need the limited slip discs if it is welded. :doh: It turns it into a spool. ;) Welding a carrier is a cheap but usually unreliable way of locking a carrier. Once it is welded, it is not really steet drivable and can be dangerous if it were bad weather. :smart:

:huh???: I would assume you would want to keep it leaf under then?

:doh:

Bilsteins all day long. Expensive but wortH EVERY penny ;)

I run bilsteins 7100s on my Super Duty and the MJ. ProComp has never and will never make anything quality. They are a house brand of 4 wheel parts and price is the goal, not quality.

:???:

Interesting. I have learned over time that cheap rarely equals good though.

But if it blows up.......... :shake: 44s are not that rare. I can probably send you 5 right now with 5 calls. Everyone is asking $300 although you will have to probably have to weld the perches and shock mounts on. Dana 44 aftermarket support is amazing for the XJ/MJ D44s. If in the odd chance something goes bad, getting parts (or even a housing) will be easy.

I thought the AMC was a 29 spline and the Dana 44 was a 30 spline. :dunno: If this was true I would rather have the 44 that is already in your rig.

2". I used heat treated Chromo 1/4" wall. DOM would be fine. These are mine:

Eagle or Pete are not needed. I am here :D They are A-Ok to run together. The difference is .3% so no biggie. Ever look at axles other than Dana? They use slightly different ratios as well and as long as they are SUPER close, they can be used. There is some room to play with gears (but not much). For example: 4.11 gears can work with 4.07's to 4.15.

That should be the one.

Yeah. All that horsepower out of our high performance pick up trucks is needed when it is freezing out :roll:

I would rather run a ZJ mechanical fan and a late model XJ electric fan. This set up seems to cool really well especially for some of the stroker boys.

Make sure you use the transfer case neutral and pull the front driveline.