cracker

The safest bet would be pull the shafts and leave the stub shafts in the unit bearings. Better yet pull the front driveline and place it on a dolly to tow it home. How do you know it is the carrier/locker? There are some other possibilities including ring/pinion damage or even unit bearings themselves.

Have you considered running both items online (at autozone.com or kragen.com, etc.) to see if both parts share the same part number?

I had an annoying squeak and it turned out to be my alternator. :cheers:

The later model XJ boosters will totally work but it is a bit tricky to get the brake light set up to work. Many folks have chosen to use the WJ booster/MC and it is an almost bolt in affair with minor modification to your firewall pinch seam and the brake light set up is slightly easier to get going. The WJ is supposed to have slightly more power as well. I am running the WJ set up currently on my MJ. :waving:

I'm still undecided. I might, but more than likely I won't. The cage on the inside is really tight up against the panels, I don't know how I would get access to the back sides of them to go through the roof/back panel to tie them together. I can respect the undecided part. I am still going back and forth whether I want to do the inside B-pillar and go through the roof or just halo it and do an exo where it goes in the front quarter panels (like the yellow rig I posted). Mine is going to be a light duty trail rig although I build it for the tough stuff. My dilema is like what Pete said. A simple unsuspecting rock can make one flop or even go head over feet a couple of times and considering the unique nature of this rig plus all the time I have put into it, I want to have it for a LONG time. I have a buggy I need to finish for the tougher stuff when I get there. What to do.........................

You planning on tieing this in with the interior cage? Why not build a halo and tie it all in together? I plan on a halo with a minimal interior cage (b-pillar only) and tie it into a partial exo. -Avery

DOM and HREW are not too different in structural strength. HREW is 100% adequate for interior use. All bends (main hoops) need to be bent propertly with HREW so one does not split the seam(s). DOM surface strength is where it becomes an advantage over HREW. FWIW, this well known rig was built 100% with HREW and it has withstood many flops and a couple SIGNIFICANT lands on it's roof.

Can you stop? Is it a lot of work? (stupid question). You sure you don't have any air in the lines?

Bilstein 7100s are what I use.

Putting Stauns on your stock wheels would work too.

Stock leaves rock on the MJ after the SOA conversion ;)

So do I. :D how is the steering? On the road? Perfect thanks to locking hubs :D Off road it is fine on the rocks and dirt. We have to snow out here.

Did you follow some of the wires? At the end of the wires, how are they attached? Looks like an old alarm though ;)

A Dana 35 isn't worth a dime to spend on any traction aid ;) I have a mini spool in the front of my MJ :eek:

This place is going down hill for sure. :doh: With Jim and I, you guys may choose to ban us. :yes: BTW, 12" SB 7100s will be fine in the frontbut the rear will be a little long I bet.

Good tires for sure. OP wanted 'cheap' but this is a smarter route.

I look forward to hearing if this works. I have the same issue.

Junk yards. :dunno:

I am a huge MTR fan. The wear really well and I have never had to balance them. They suck in thew mud. They are pretty puncture resistant in the rocks and perform great everywhere BUT the mud.

97-2001 Cherokees. Some of the ZJ stuff is transferable but it is hit and miss (steering column, etc.)

Were those the main leaves that you got from me? I got closer to 2" when I had them on. Not really. Those sort of got lost over at Russ's :doh: They were another pair.

The easiest of easy is to get the cherokee or comanche equivelent of exactly what you want to run and swap everything over. You will have every bolt, shifter, cable, etc. to make it happen. Sounds crappy but it is by far the easiest but you can see how it is supposed to look before you install it. 231s are basically similar over the years with some internal changes and some different input splines. Just find the one to to work on your transmission of choice. (Don't know about the AX-15 but I would assume it would be a 21 or 23 spline).

I'm thinking of doing exactly that. I have a couple of sets of XJ spring packs here I can cannibalize. Did adding the XJ leaf produce any lift at all, or just increase the spring rate? It was about an 1.25" of lift.

It's not considered polite to gloat ... True. :wavey:

Doors from a 4 door cherokee will bolt in ;)