cracker

The engines go for about $200 out here. I am about to sell two HOs myself and I suspect I'll get about $400 for the pair. Transmissions are about $100 here too FWIW (AW4).

Here is mine. I think I spent less than $40. All rustoleum that I shot through an air sprayer. With the guidance of a buddy, this is my first attempt.

8K is the safe bet.

cool.

No worries. Thanks for doing so.

Can you post up a picture of it? I am curious on how it mounts. I made my own and I need to finish it up but I have 3 'significant' mounts right now and need to add a 4th but I am always open to seeing how others did it. I have never seen an OE one of these in person :(

You can run 42s on 7" of lift :D

This is why i was careful to use the word "opinion". I have no experience with 3-links other then what i have read,I'm sure they have their place. I can see your points and value your opinions. mostly my point was that the terms "short arm" and "long arm" are thrown around very loosely and there is alot more to it. between short and long arms there are alot of different setups and each are gonna perform differently. there is also gonna be a difference between a custom built setup like yours and an off the shelf setup. :cheers: Understood. If you make it out to LA hit me up and we'll let you check it out first hand. :cheers:

Cracker, cracker, cracker.... I started this thread to get advice on my MJ project.... I have gotten some great advice from people who have been in a similar situation.... AND, I got a few replies from you.... You called me cheap when I stated I would buy what I know is a better product for less, just because it wasn't RE... You tried to argue points with Mnkyboy after he gave me his thoughts on the different types of longarm set-ups (he even said "THIS IS JUST MY OPINION")... I am thinking about different set-ups and things that have been suggested by people who are here to share advice and help... (that's not you cracker) It's not your advice or opinions I don't like, it's the delivery... Thanks to you guys that are here helping people, it is appreciated... And yes. I think you are 'cheaping out'. From every post where you mention money to the title of this thead '...Parts list for SOA Lift... Suggestions??? Better Prices???' If that doesn't scream 'I am cheap' than I don't know what does. And then you justify your position by saying 'better product for less' where other well experienced people tell you otherwise. :shake: As far as cheap goes, you won't find many that are 'cheaper' than me. Because of my lack of funds, I build my own parts and because of this I get the opportunity to notice things that others don't, specifically about after market parts and their designs. I have no favoritism towards RE and I don't beleive I ever have or ever will own any of their products. As far as an after market company goes, you will be hard pressed to find the quality in design and value compared to their competition. My comments to Monkey was started out with that he is entitled to his opinion. I pointed out that the three link has earned it's keep on and off the road and even suggested it's beginnings. I never argued with him nor did I state that he was not entitled to his opinion. I wanted to mention that although a three link may seem intimidating for some, it should not be discounted as an 'offroad low speed' only setup. If you don't like my delivery then deduct the fact out of it. I am very direct and to the point.

:rotf: Why because you start a thread and ask advice but when you get it you don't like it and you say you won't change your mind? :rotf: Why you even start a thread if you weren't going to take different perspectives? BTW...the only shock answer is Bilstein :D What length you looking for?

Not really but I might have an idea 8)

When you are back out here you got to swing by the pad with this thing after you visit Russ :yes: Beer is on me ;)

Any update on these?

Have you considered installing your lift then measuring for what shocks you might need? :shake:

As you are entitled to your opinion but at this moment I have 2 street legal rigs here at the house on 37s and three links. They get driven at 80-85 quite nicely and neither have any sway bars (not intentionally). They handle both incredible on the road as well as off the road and they are built with 'mid arms' with approx 23" lowers. And no, there is absolutely no DW. As far as your statement goes about the three link being good for low speeds, then how do you answer that 60% of all the King of the Hammers race rigs were racing with three links (front AND rear)? For many of those rigs with 40s they max out at 62.5 MPH but Cambells rig got up to 112 mph on a three link and that is off road. Although you may not choose to run it, three link has been long accepted as stable for high speed even in the toughest terrain. A three link is an incredible option when built properly. It does require good fabrication and welding skills to have it hold up. A 4 link even with a sway bar is a little 'rolly' but a three link with panhard will give you optimum flex with very high stability on the road. Here is an example of the three link axle work I did for the front of the MJ: Here is an example of the rear three link I fabbed up for the buggy. When going three link (front or rear) make sure your design is built solid with the larger 2 5/8" joints. And this is the rig that is (arguably) credited for having the first three link in the 4x4 world: Go figure it is a Cherokee.

You cleary have never cut up a unibody chassis. At the OEM LCA bracket, there is three layers of 16 guage. Not one and they are tied in very well (and stacked in two levels at the lowest point). The RE support bracket ties into all this sheet metal unlike the RCO which ties into it at the end only. The single support bracket you claim to be all so mighty is only held on by a few 1" stitch welds. The idea of using 1/4" to bolt to 16 guage with self tappers is brilliant. You wouldn't happened to be an unemployed engineer would you? :shake: Unlike yourself, I don't have to buy bolt on suspension systems and worry about brands or their faulty cheap designs. I use my resources to fabricate things myself to a far higher standard.

Sounds like incentive to learn how to fabricate stuff yourself. I agree with you that is is expensive to lift but I do understand that companies must exist and this stuff has to cost some $$$ to design and fabricate and insure :/ I made MOST of my own stuff and got eveything else either used or hand me downs. I have less than 3K in my rig and I sport 37 MTRs, Dana 44/60, Klune, and tons of armor. I have been building for a while so I have learned what works, what doesn't and how to make it happen on the budget. :wave:

I dislike that design and the thin 16 guage OEM support piece that it bolts to. The RE would be stronger the way it mounts if you would remove that piece. But if being cheap is your way.....

Stronger? How do you figure?

I have the same problem with my 87 :(

1.The 95' K2500 has a 6.5 Diesel so my towing power is the same as or less then that of the MJ's. The K2500 is also junk ! its broke 22 item in 15 break downs over an 18 month period it is currently in need of another $220 starter and $1,500+ transmission. is a 95' with 139K miles it's toast shame too body is flawless . . . After financing and Repairs i'll have $15,000 into a $3,000 truck that i still owe $5,000 on . . . It's just waiting to be paid off then get a lean release then it'll be recycled :banana: can't wait :clapping: I'm not fixing it again :thumbsup: 2. brake front to back all new brand new, that bias valve unit was bypassed when i bought it and it was never replace when i did the brakes . . . anything offered in a optional "BETTER" product was gotten in the higher grade . . . New calipers, new wheel cylinders, new stainless lines, new master cylinder, New drilled n slotted rotors, with the fancy pad's, New drums, and New shoes. first few miles i busted my lip open cause the brakes grabbed so well, have about 800-1,200lbs in the bed have all winter truck sadly to say the MJ will out stop my K2500 it will out accelerate my K2500 its proven 25X more reliable then my K2500 the Comanche will be around many more years while the K2500 has a 1 way ticket to the Crusher . . . :rant: :grrrr: :mad: NEVER ! EVER ! ! NEVER ! ! ! :grrrr: :mad: :rant: Buy a GM-Diesel :thumbsup: :hmm: My second failed GM product and it was also my second Diesel GM product :hmm: Mike That K2500 sounds like a lemon :rotf: You do realize AMC = All Makes Compatible and there is a ton of GM parts on your MJ right?

There is also gear ration or the teeth count stamped on the ring gear. You may have to turn it a tad but it'll be there. Most of those tags on the covers are not there because out here they pull the diff covers to drain the fluid before they set them in the yard.

Why don't you tow with the 1995 GMC K2500? The MJ (stock) sucks for stopping without any payload never mind additional weight or towing. Unless you do some significant mods, the load leveling prop valve has been known to explode under certain sudden stop conditions. The brake booster is a (crappy) single diaphram set up which has limited power as well. I love my MJ and I have addressed each of these (braking) concerns but if I had (and I do) anything better to tow with like a older 'burb, I would choose that route. Bigger trucks are better tow with anyhow and it is safer for those around you.

:???: A dana 44 can be used as a dd. If you get one out of a MJ complete, it should just bolt right up.