cracker

:waving: I know plenty of people with strokers running fine. Sounds like you need to meet the right engine builders.

Doesn't work so well in California with the smog laws and what not. He is better off with the stroker here if he wants to drive it on the road.

The motors don't care if it is mated to an auto or a manual. The motors are the same (although the throttle body can vary between an auto or a manual). An HO would require you to rewire your whole vehicle for it.

Thanks for that info Cracker. I think he had the alloy head on his motor also. Good guy. :cheers: He is a great guy and yes, he has that bad @$$ alloy head. Russ Pottenger spent some time porting it as well :yes:

Kyung's motor went to Danny (S7Tech) so that is not the motor.

Well, that is a HO set up. You would need to put your head, intake/header on it to make it work. Other than that, no additional modifications are necessary. You can just put it in with no other mods to your vehicle and it will work just fine. Of course, upgrades to your throttle body, injectors, headers, exhaust, intake, etc would help take advantage of the available power.

I never thought about removing the extra bracing and using the XJ kit. I'm assuming that wouldn't be that hard. I like the Rough Country XJ kit and it's a fair price. It is like 4 cuts too into very thin material. Easy to do and is super quick.

x2 X10

You sure it is from the Dana 35 and not a brake line?

:???:

200-210 miles myself on an 18 gallon tank on 37s and Ford injectors.

Replace the track bar bracket is another solution.

FWIW, I don't recall anyone ever complaining about having Dana 60s under their rig if they are done 'right'. I have heard lots of complaints about going full width 60s though. Set up a build thread and good luck.

Updated above. Rig has 800 miles on the engine and pulling strong.

It was nice meeting everyone and thanks for coming out Thanks to Johnny for scheduling it around me getting my rig running. EXTRA special thanks to David Bricker for coming out and not coming empty handed

Narrowing an axle is pretty simple. Basically grind the weld holding the knuckle out and start swinging at it with a sledge. Once you break it free, knock it off and cut the tube down to your desired width and pound the knuckles back on. I wouls suggest only shortening the passenger side of a ford axle and just turn the drivers knuckle to adjust the castor (doing it this way will only require the passenger shaft axle shaft shortened and splined). I don't have a build thread unfortunately. I actually built my axle from scratch.

Front 60 built is about 500# Rear 60 semi-float 35 spline/discs are about 330# Rear 60 full float (unless it is a D60HD)......toss it in the trash. It is 30 spline and worthless. A Dana 70 or a 14 bolt are a way better option. Keep in mind one of the benifits of going D60 is not having to carry *any* spares. (I carried over 100# of spares for my front D44 that weighed 350# itself). The tires do weigh slightly more but not 300-500 pounds :doh: If you can build the 60 narrow it is well worth it in the long run. :thumbsup:

Johnny was hoping to make this annual. You should show with or without the MJ.

I'll be there with hopefully a rig. I guess I don't have an excuse....it is only 3 miles from my home. :yes:

What!?!? You've been back in SoCal for months and I still haven't seen your ugly mug. X2

We are having a NAXJA event in Big Bear. SoCal Fest 2011 May 20-22, 2011 at Serrano Campground, Big Bear, CA

Thanks for the help. Still doing research and I wanted to add this link to this thread as a reference. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.p ... t244937530

• External slave unit (Hydraulic reservoir, line and external slave cylinder as one unit) Part #52104110 • Release Bearing (96 application) Part #53008342 • Fork??? (Will the Peugeot work?) • Shifter/boot (Will the AX-5 one work? Where can I get one cheap?) • Pilot Bearing for CJ 304-3-sp combo. Part # 690-042 • Pad Kit Part #21-109-15 (shift fork plastic) • Bushing Part #21-118-47 (shift fork rod plastic) • AX15 mount from a YJ (is this right?) • Novak 231 shifter (Bling Bling ) • 10w30 motor oil for the AX15 and ATF for the 231 How about this list? The stuff in red I am up in the air about.

It's both. The crossmember for the AX-15 is different than the one for every other transmission. The AX-15 crossmember has a dip in the middle. Interesting. We will eventually make a flat crossmember/skid and will have to push the resting point up a tad for the trans to allow it to be flat. For now we'll then probably modify the stock crossmemebr to work and get it running. Thanks.

Hello, I talked my buddy into buying a fellow club member’s MJ. It is an 2WD 87 short bed with a 4.0. It came with a RE 5.5” lift and a rear D35. It also came with the venerable Dana 35 of which we yanked immediately and put an 8.8 and started fixing it up. And since it was 2WD, we want to remove the Peugeot and replace it with a late model AX15 4wd and a NP231. His build 'blog' is here: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1049106 The AX15 trans came with the deal of buying the MJ. We believe it came out of a later model XJ and it has what I think to be the external slave. I needs some help establishing exactly what is needed for a day of pulling and swapping transmissions. I have been doing a little digging and I came across this site: http://www.jeeptech.com/convtrans/ax15swap.html My understanding is that the current Peugeot clutch/flywheel/pressure plate will transfer over to the AX15. I should need to buy: • External slave unit (Hydraulic reservoir, line and external slave cylinder as one unit) Part #52104110 • Release Bearing (96 application) Part #53008342 • Fork??? (Will the Peugeot work?) • Shifter/boot (Will the AX-5 one work? Where can I get one cheap?) • Pilot Bearing for CJ 304-3-sp combo. Part # 690-042 • Pad Kit Part #21-109-15 (shift fork plastic) • Bushing Part #21-118-47 (shift fork rod plastic) • AX15 mount from a YJ (is this right?) • Novak 231 shifter (Bling Bling :D ) • 10w30 motor oil for the AX15 and ATF for the 231 I have read that the current cross member may work. Any way to confirm this? I can fab up a cross member up if need be but just to get this thing road worthy I was hoping just to bolt it up in the time being. I am not worried about my driveline since my driveline shop will shorten/balance the current driveline for me for $35 and I already have the YJ yolk that fits in the 231 for it as well. I am A-OK with auto and 99% of the other workings of a MJ/XJ but I have never touched a manual transmission….go figure. Today is a great day to learn. Any assistance one may offer would be greatly appreciated.