cracker

Expedition is a 1/2 ton.

I thought it was the cross floor harness.

:rotf:

Don't forget a fire extinguisher.

The 35 spline 9" would be better and lighter. The downfall is the pinion on the 9" that is 2.25" lower than the centerline of the axle and the fact it is very short pinion leaves it in harms way of rocks and what not. (the Dana 60 pinion is 1.125" below the centerline of the axle tube and the pinion is a couple of inches longer getting it high and 'out of the way'). ALso, the Ford OEM 9" stamped housings are usually 3/16" thick so they wear out pretty quick being drig over rocks. I am building another Dana 60 right now and am taking MANY pics so I can do a tech write up on it. Regarding price, you'll need to spend money on gears, shafts, torino ends, ford explorer brakes, leaf brackets, master install kit, axle bearings, differential, brake lines and possibly a 1310 yolk (most D60s will be 1350 yolks). You will also need an axle alignment bar and the necessary pucks (of which you can borrow from a friend or what not) and a significant (220V+) welder. Just price out all this and you are about there in regards to price. You already have the Dana 60 housing so you don't need to spend any money on that. cheers Personally, I would save your money up and just buy the necessary brakes for the 9" and save up and get one of these third members and it'll be an AWESOME axle: http://www.truehi9.com this website is great! i agree with the pinions measure clearance to centerline but i remember there two different size of 9". which is size of bearing inside. I gotta get a axle removed and measure the bearing inside so i can know which get either pre-00' or mid 90' explorer brakes i can't remember what exact year of explorer but i will research more. I'm totally agree with ur opinion about save the money u[p but the problem is that my 9" rear have NONE of brake parts. which i have to get wheel hub, caliper, pad, disc(rotor), brake line, proportionate (sp?), parking cable, etc. which is average totally 300ish dollars? the dana 60 is just need spring preach, bracket for shock, new brake lines and seals which total less 100 dollars? i don't know man... I don't know if it will work or what bolt pattern you need but you can get a complete Ford explorer axle from a 1996-2000 Ford explorer and take all the hardware off and apply it to the 9". These axles cost me $68 on half off day at the junk yard here in LA.

I see the 4.0 now but it says 'Fuel pump, 4.0l, yj series' :huh???:

The 35 spline 9" would be better and lighter. The downfall is the pinion on the 9" that is 2.25" lower than the centerline of the axle and the fact it is very short pinion leaves it in harms way of rocks and what not. (the Dana 60 pinion is 1.125" below the centerline of the axle tube and the pinion is a couple of inches longer getting it high and 'out of the way'). ALso, the Ford OEM 9" stamped housings are usually 3/16" thick so they wear out pretty quick being drig over rocks. I am building another Dana 60 right now and am taking MANY pics so I can do a tech write up on it. Regarding price, you'll need to spend money on gears, shafts, torino ends, ford explorer brakes, leaf brackets, master install kit, axle bearings, differential, brake lines and possibly a 1310 yolk (most D60s will be 1350 yolks). You will also need an axle alignment bar and the necessary pucks (of which you can borrow from a friend or what not) and a significant (220V+) welder. Just price out all this and you are about there in regards to price. You already have the Dana 60 housing so you don't need to spend any money on that. cheers Personally, I would save your money up and just buy the necessary brakes for the 9" and save up and get one of these third members and it'll be an AWESOME axle: http://www.truehi9.com

I think you need a new "jeep service guy", LOL :brows: :brows: https://www.jeepoemparts.com/1990-jeep- ... parts.html CW CW, for me your link shows an option for a 2.5L, 4.2L, or a 5.9L :doh:

Sorry about bringing this back from the dead but..... I have noticed more recently that the fuel pump is pretty loud but seems to have just recently gotten this way. Has anyone noticed that the fuel pump instantly getting louder is a sign of it about to fail?

The rear 60 you speak of is probably a complete waste. Odds are this axle is a regular full float dana 60 which is a 30 spline axle. A dana 44 from a MJ is 30 spline as well. From a spline perspective they are identical. The difference is that the D60 is a full float which means the it can handle LOTS of weight because the weight of the vehicle is supported by spindles. The Dana 44 has the axle shafts supporting the weight of the vehicle. The Dana 44 isn't carrying mush in regards to weight since the MJ itself can't handle that much of a payload. I agree with Eagle it is too heavy and probably WAY too wide. That full float dana 60 axle should weigh about 400# and for reference the MJ Dana 44 should weight approx 220#. I am a HUGE Dana 60 supporter when the axle is built a certain way. I have built a handful of Dana 60 axle that are semi float 35 spline axles at 61" width, disc brakes and when shaved have the same clearance as a Dana 44. A Dana 60 built this way can weigh about 310# and can survive sever abuse with no need to be concerned about shaft failure. I have an axle like this on my Buggy (on 42s) and my MJ on 37s.

I noticed that although my rig seemed fine, when I went to paint it I found a bunch of bondo in these areas. The odd thing was they were identical in there locations on both sides and it didn't seem to be done by your everyday body shop. Was that from the factory that way?

When looking at the MJ, keep in mind that it is 19 years old and it won't be perfect and will require some maintenance. How is this good advice? A magnet will detect metal through properly repaired dents.

I am in a similar boat. I am about to give up and put a toggle on the dash and use it as a horn.

Either works fine. The polly doesn't isolate the vibrations as well. I prefer the rubber myself.

$3000 is about right with good parts.

Funny. I couldn't lift my transmission enough to get in there on my XJ or my MJ (with the modified floor pan). No biggie. The crossmember adds an additional 15 minutes or so.

Pretty much anywhere that sells OEM replacement parts (junk yard, eBay, dealer, google search, etc.)

Yeah. That went weird. :huh???:

They will not fit.

It is about as basic as swapping out your oil. Support the transmission, pull the crossmember, unbolt transmission mount, put new transmission mount in, and replace the crossmember.

I thing you may be surprised as to how little the driveline 'compresses' when your MJ suspension cycles. Under compression, the leaves flatten out and the shackles rotate towards the rear so the axle doesn't really move forward on the chassis. I would assume that the original 42.25" would be acceptable. 1" seems like too much. FWIW, I installed an 8.8 on a YJ the other day and the driveline only had about .375" of available compression in it but it still wouln't bottom out when the suspension cycled.

I beleive it is your horn.

I wouldn't bother.

:doh: yes

Actually the newer rear still won't work without wheel spacers. It is very narrow.