cracker

Could be LCA bushings, track bar bushing, alignment, worn out track bar, loose track bar, UCA bushings, ball joints or even unbalanced tires (which you took care of). You can sort of half @$$ check your alignement with a tape measure to make sure. :thumbsup: I do all my jeep alignments with a tape measure and have for about 6 years now and I don't ahve any funny wear patterns or death wobble at any speed. I haven't heard it being the unit bearings yet but I wouldn't rule it out. Good luck.

I am sure someone did a write up on it. Just do a search for that. On the front you can go to the yard and pull a cherokee prop valve and it is pretty simple swap. You will have to note which lines the cherokee used and emulate the same line on your MJ (yes, you will have an extra one not being used.) You'll have to crawl under the rear and figure out what you want to do. There is a 'T' back there so I plugged one of the holes and used the short tube to extend down the bracket that holds the speed sensing valve and from there I run a flexible line to the axle. Note that there is two brake lines running from the front to the back. You will only use one of them in so make sure it is the one you connected on the front. Overall this is a pretty simple thing to do. Just take your time.

That is your proportioning valve for the complete vehicle. They have been known to explode under extreme braking conditions too. In order to remove it, you must put a true proportioning valve under your hood and remove the one one that looks like it is a proportioning valve. Many folks, including myself, use a regular cherokee prop valve after we remove the load sensing one.

I think the JCR guys are a good bunch. I would suspect they are running to the drawing board and re-evaluating the bumper situation. I would bet they'll be back on board with the bumper concerns all worked out. I also suspect the price will go up a tad too.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=22460 There is a pic where all the bolts on post two. good luck

check mine out...I just got it custom made viewtopic.php?f=7&t=22606 my posting in Your project MJs under new member and My 1988 Very nice :thumbsup:

Pep boys, O'Reilly's, Vato zone, etc. should have them.

I would suggest using new bearings as set up bearings and make sure they are the same brand you intend to use in the housing when they are all set. Gears are not hard but they are time consuming. The 8.8 shouldn't be too bad. I don't like Dana 30s as the casting flexes WAY too much. My suggestion is to get the bearing preload REALLY high and get that backlash to like 8 thousands.

well.......maybe but this isn't as bad as you think. If you replace the carrier bearings with two identical (new) carrier bearings your probably OK in regards to you pattern (if you have a good pattern your backlash is ok) because the carrier is automatically centered in the housing (as it was when it had the 'old' bearings on it). The issue when swapping your carrier bearings is the thickness of the bearing itself and how much preload the bearings are getting. I have measured some bearings and there are some thickness differences from one brand to another and SOMETIMES (even with a case spreader) you can't get the carrier back in the housing due to the fact they are new and effectively thicker than what came off. When I had the problem above (using 2 different brands of carrier bearing to set up the gears), swapping carrier bearings gave me very little, to no backlash, after having had them set up nice with the cheaper China bearings. Maybe the gear side bearing was so bad, it 'collapsed' much more than the non-ring gear side, increasing the backlash, but when I put the 'good' bearing set in, the backlash disappeared. It probably had everything to do with using a poor quality bearing set, but I wouldn't want to see someone swap carrier bearings as a preventative maintenance, and burn up a gear set. Sounds like you are right that the two diferent brands and the fact they were cheap ones that wear differently was your problem. I don't think many folks will run into this issue as it is quite unique.

well.......maybe but this isn't as bad as you think. If you replace the carrier bearings with two identical (new) carrier bearings your probably OK in regards to you pattern (if you have a good pattern your backlash is ok) because the carrier is automatically centered in the housing (as it was when it had the 'old' bearings on it). The issue when swapping your carrier bearings is the thickness of the bearing itself and how much preload the bearings are getting. I have measured some bearings and there are some thickness differences from one brand to another and SOMETIMES (even with a case spreader) you can't get the carrier back in the housing due to the fact they are new and effectively thicker than what came off. This is correct but it could also mess with your (pinion) bearing preload as well unless you re shim it. But if it is not broken.....leave it alone. :cheers:

The contact is with the steering and axle side sway bar mount (on the passenger side).

ha. I was thinking the same thing. Gear guys want a place to 'start' so they count the shims that came off prior setups. If it is going to a gear guy I would leave it on. If you want to change the bearings just to change them it may still require shimming (on either the pinion or the ring gear).

Of mine? No. That was 6 years ago.

How did you come up with that math? The pulley? The rig at 3400#, let us say you may have to have someone inside turning the wheel for you so add 200# and then add fuel and gear for 300#. that is 3900# and then you double that for 7800#. This is why everyone says to use a 8000# winch minimum. We use 8000# winches with the pulley and it is slow. With a manual winch it will be like watching grass grow.

Out here in So Cal, engines go for about $200. Maybe $300 with low mileage (50K). I have two HOs I am looking to unload and I expect to get $400 for the pair.

That is awesome!

A long time ago I encountered the same problem. I took the draglink off the vehicle and I heated it up with my acetylene torch and gave it a slight bend to clear everything. It worked fine for the next 5 months until I eventually replaced the front axle with a D44.

Mine is in the bed strapped down. I don't think a worn out 37 will get stolen but if I were worried I guess I could use a cable lock on it. Why don't you leave it under the MJ until for DD duty and then strap it in the bed for offroad use.

Friends don't let frinds buy Rusty's products. VERY low quality products. Keep in mind, with Rusty's YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR ;)

Detroit :cheers:

Wow. A gear guy who actually says that I would probably not go to. Those who have done gears usually avoid used gears like the plague. The good gear guys say 'no' to used gears. Once you start getting into gears you will realize what I am talking about. Used gears can take twice as long to set up over new gears and there is no guarantee on ever getting a good pattern or eliminating the whine ;) The last set of used gears I set up we never could get right and just never worked. We pulled them after KOH and threw a new set of gears in there and they are good. For $150 used gears are overpriced with or without a used carrier. I just bought a new set of gears for $120 a few weeks ago. Check on Pirate and you should find them from one of the users there or one of their vendors.

I do hope that is the case.

Yes. Those would work but I would never recommend running used gears especially in the back (rear) axle. They are very hard to set up a second time where they will not make noise.

[fingers crossed]

They look like the right ones. Next time just supply a link for what you are looking for. Most of what you posted are the basic details of all Dana 44s so it is a little confusing.