cracker

Uh........no that would mean a 4" lift would result in a 2" longer control arm. FAIL. That is not true. Look at this link: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Sus ... _Chart.htm

DW can be caused by a million things...... alignment tires out of balance UCA bushigs LCA bushings Track Bar bushings or bolts Track bar bracket being REALLY loose Dana 30 ball joints etc. I wish you luck.

My 87 has one.

Wow. You really have a lot of questions and variables. :dunno: You might be able to get away with stock UCAs but you need to see what the total nets in regards to lift. I generally don't like to see much more than 4" of lift on stock uppers unless you are running drop brackets.

Yes, in theory. ;) The best way is to cut the old perches off. Put the axle under the Jeep and set the pinion angle where it should be. Tack the perches in place. Then remove the axle to finish welding. That would be the best. I lifted the crap out of the chassis and welded it on the ground with my mig welder after I tacked them in. I did the shock mounts like that as well.

I just did this conversion and if the MJ wasn't free, I wouldn't have done it. :brows: Stupid stuff like the complete brake pedal assembly from an auto (for the torque convertor to lock up), an auto steering column, shifter, TCU and then the process of studying the hell out of the factory wiring harness to make it work (my roomate did that). The throttle body needed be changed (the '87 manual one doesn't have the necessary threaded holes), the TPS needed to be changed and wired in, tranny cooler lines (and those damn plastic GM fittings). The mosty odd install was the POWER/COMFORT switch (easier at the time than wiring in a bulb and if you didn't the tranny stays in confort mode). If you have a COMPLETE donor vehicle side by side it is way easier. We were lucky and had three donors. :D

Just pop the bead at your house. Unless it is a load Range E tire, they are pretty easy to do yourself. You could even use a hi-lift jack to get the bead to un-seat.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=16819 :dunno:

What all is in that...? I see (obvious) full hydro steering, a drop out third so I'm assuming a 9" or a True Hi9, kingpin D60 knuckles, what looks like either Sunray inner Cs or plated Cs, and a Diamond or Spidertrax housing? Close. Spidertrax housing with SOLID axle kingpin inner and outer knuckles. True Hi9, 4340 shafts on CTMs. PSC 1.5" full hydro ram on there and it has been trussed and plated as well. We call it the 609. :D

37s were MAX we could run on our D44s in deep rocks and we WORRIED constanly about breaking. 30 spline outers are OK but not necessary. After years of messing around in some of the finest rock wheeling, we found that the 19 spline alloy stubs were more than adequate. After going to drive flanges, the 19 spline stubs RARELY were the issue No faliure at the splines). It seemes that the yolks to the axle shafts gave way on a regular basis. Once we got to that point, there was nothing we could do and I had to build a real axle: :yes:

What is your problem with a 44? I would do a 44 all day long over a 30 even on 33s. Way better ball joints, thicker axle tubes, locking hubs, and the possibility of going to a REAL high steer for VERY little money. I bought my 44 for $62 and needed $40 worth of steel and it took me two days to cut/turn the knuckles, cut the old leaf casting off, and fab all brackets. At the same time I adjusted all my brackets for optimal clearance. All I have to do now is add my gears, lockers, CTMs, and alloys which I'll do next weekend then source some chevy 'flat top' knuckles for high steer (I already have my high steer arms).

I did this conversion. It is driver drop front pumpkin. They will work fine EXCEPT the rear D44 has limited aftermarket (alloy) axle offerings. I have Waggy axles from an 84 and it looks like custom mage shafts only for my rear 44 ($460). I am going to toss the rear here shortly and since I have a D60 35 spline Detroit already I am going to have the custom shafts built for a 60 at the same price the custom 44 shafts cost.

Do what ever you find easier. Cutting and adding the earlier shifter is pretty easy to do. You'll have to source a way to connect he brake lever to the two e-brake cables. Bo (Shelby) used a stock MJ cable to do it.

Yes. The Grumman trucks.

The 4BT is a pretty sweet motor. If they weren't so damn heavy I would consider one for my MJ. It weights almost twice that of a 4.0 and the 4.0 is not a very light motor. Rumor has it some of the diesel guys can get up to 400 HP out of one of them.

Taz, know of any link or docs to this Spidertrax spacer failure? I'm all for safety, and of course you know I'm not doubting you mate. :cheers: Unfortunately not Don. This happened back in 2002-2003 era when I was working at 4 Wheel Parts, so it was in the firt 3 years of existance for the Spidertrax. May have been inferior to todays...who knows... I learned a long time ago not to take advice from people that work at 4WP :nanner:

Sweet! XJ parts are definitly more plentiful! Any bizarre issues you ran into (something it took two or more beers to figure out)?

OK How many have done this? I have the AW4 in and I am about to do the cooling lines/cooler. I have the 'auto' wiring harness as well. I still need to change out the brake pedal and the switch for the torque converter lock up/brake light etc. The question I have is how many have changed out the steering column to the column shift style or did you change it out to an XJ Auto column and placed the XJ shifter on the floor. Looks like going the XJ route makes the most sense as far as 'work' goes. I will already have a transfer case shifter in the stock location as well as a Klune shifter on the floor so having the Auto Shifter there wouldn't bother me.

Yeah it is worth it for $40 Out here they cost $120 at the yard if you find them (good luck) Make sure you grab the striker as you'll need it (from what I hear).

Agreed. The Dana 35 is made of butter and cheese. Pretty much came from the factory with herpes. :ack:

Looking good :thumbsup:

1/8" is VERY good to use. Most of my XJ was plated using formed 10 guage and it was incredibly stong and took an amazing beating. Infact my front suspension was completly welded to it.

the XJ/MJ have quite a bit of weight up front where the rubicon unlimited weight is a little further back. I would GUESS that you would end up with 4" if you put them on. Put them on and take a look at it. It doesn't take too long to put them on and look at it but I would guarantee it'll net more than you want.

Excellent description ;) SYE is easy to do and a drive line is cheap. PORC has SYEs generally cheap and if you do it they usually have the 32 spline rear outputs. It'll take you 3-4 hours to install it and I recommend doing it on a bench even though you have plenty of room to work with that much lift.

The rear 44 is a good axle overall but generally can warrant a minor truss. I have seen about 10 bent ones over time. That is lot of power to put into the front D44 even on 33s. That engine will sure be sweet though. I'll be curious to see how that holds up. I spend most of my time (when I have a running rig) in the rocks. I have been pretty lucky with the breakage over the years in Johnson Valley but I have only an HO 4.0. I was running a front Dana 44 pretty much 'polished' with alloys, CTMs, etc. on 37s. I broke two stub shafts but the vendor claimed there was a problem with that run of shafts so I don't fault my right foot. Overall the axle was good to me but it was one of those things where I would worry WAY too much every time I drove it. I eventually replaced it with a 60/HP9 to eliinate those worries. If you are careful it should do you well. 4.10s should be fine athough I would beleive 4.56s would work better.