cracker

I can't imagine anyone wanting the column shifter. I certainly don't intend to use one when I convert a 5-speed to automatic for my wife to drive. I don't need (or want) to be forced to turn the key before being "allowed" to shift out of PARK. I also have no use for clutch interlocks that won't allow me to use the starter unless the clutch is depressed. As far as removing the key, the 5-speeds have the manual lock that doesn't allow the key to be removed unless you hold down the little handle thingie. Since I always park a 5-speed in 1st gear before removing the key, putting an automatic in PARK is no different than putting a 5-speed in 1st. Again ... no need for the stupid cable. One less thing to swap (actually, several less things to swap), and one less thing to break. OK. If you say so. How does your personal preference help the OP in regards to his inquiry about the steering column lock?

Cool There is 2 in Riverside as well and one with some really funky bodywork/ground effects. Was that the white one with the ground effects at the Pyrite yard? I snapped a picture of it on my cell phone. There was also a blue one in pretty good shape at the San Bernardino yard on 6th St. I think so. Anthony called me howling laughing and told me about it.

You know I have seen multiple people discuss this 'wiring upgrade.' I have had a '94 XJ and I now have an '87 MJ. Neither of the vehicles had a problem where there was a voltage difference in my headlight wiring compared to my battery but I have heard other say this problem exists. Currently, I am running the Silverstar lights on my MJ. When I wired up ALL of my wiring for my accessories I ran wires & relays for EVERYTHING I could conceive I would ever need (rock lights, fog lamps, fans, etc). I actually ran wiring to bypass my existing factory headlight wiring and set everything up on relays and what not. For giggles, I hooked up one of my headlights via a relay and bypass wiring and the other headlight is getting it's power by the factory wiring. I can NOT tell a difference. Both headlights look identically bright. Maybe cause I took some of the load off of the wiring harness it works better but regardless, they work the same. The funny thing is that I never changed it and to this day it is set up the same way.

It is such a cheap and simple upgrade I couldn't resist doing it again on my tow rig and my comanche.

The most effective 'budget' upgrade that worked for me was the Sylvania SilverStar lights. They are way brighter than stock and don't cost much.

Cool There is 2 in Riverside as well and one with some really funky bodywork/ground effects.

I think you'll be pretty happy. You may be surprised but the Spicer 5-760x U-Joints are strong and VERY reliable. With the full circle clips, they could give you quite a long time of success on 32s.

I mistyped and meant to say 'Steering column'. The wheel itself is fine. If he wants to go column shift it would need be swapped out (along with the guage cluster). If he wanted to do a floor shifter, there is a safety cable that connects the automatic floor shifter to the column. This does two things (that I can tell). It does not allow the floor shifter to be shifted out of park unless the key is in the ignition (not really important but maybe if you have kids or something). It also does not allow the key to be removed unless the transmission has been placed back into 'park'. I have found this to be nice to make sure the vehicle IS in park before the key is pulled. I believe three times now that I have 'thought' the vehicle was placed in park, it didn't actually 'click' into place so the key not coming out had sort of tipped me off that I needed to check it. The steering column swap is not 'necessary' to allow the vehicle to move forward but it does make it as it was OEM and I guess a little safer. The OP had mentioned 'steering column locks'.

Source: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12019&p=257018&hilit=wag+sag#p257018

If he gets alloys (and stays on 32s) with full cirle clips, he doesn't need to load his vehicle down with more weight with spares. Lighter vehicles break less often ;) A locked 30 front WILL grenade. If you overbuild the shafts, you start snapping R&P's like twigs. I personally would rather carry a few cheap and plentyful later model stock parts that are easy to swap on the trail than risk something more catastrophic or expensive. This is not an issue on 32s locked with a competant driver. Locked 30 on 32s with alloys and full circle clips and Spicer U-Joints will work perfect. A shaft is not a 'fuse' for protecting a ring gear. I have seen plenty of ring gears broken with the stock shafts intact and 'ok'. BTW, the Spicer 297 U-joints were replaced many years ago by the 5-760x.

If he gets alloys (and stays on 32s) with full cirle clips, he doesn't need to load his vehicle down with more weight with spares. Lighter vehicles break less often ;)

Did I hear correctly that the HO model alternators do not have a voltage regulator in the alternatoer and the GM 'Renix Era' models did have a voltage regulator?

Put in alloy shafts with the full circle clips as well. You will get lots of opinions on what locker to get. I am all for detroits front and rear :thumbsup:

It entails a lot of parts. Wiring to the main engine harness. Trans computer. New throttle body. New steering wheel. Beleive it or not, it requires an automatic pedal assembly (for the torque convertor lock switch). A floor shifter (unless you can find a colum shift and if so you get to change out the guage cluster). Don't forget a transmission. Best bet is to have a complete Cherokee handy to move parts over. I did this and everything works but the neutral safety switch. It was not fun and I don't think I'd do it again.

http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech/injectors.html

thamks? Brandon, Why don't you type your responses in a word processing app like MS Word and correct all the spelling before posting it here?

I wouldn't mount it to the axle. The axle is only held on by leaves and the leaves are bolted on to sheet metal. The trucks are getting old now and a lot of that sheet metal is getting tired. Have you seen how a receiver hitch connects? If you could emulate that it would probably be safer.

Rusty's is the Dana 35 of the lift world. It may roll down the road now but it won't later. Freinds don't let friends buyt Rusty's.

If you are not getting the info you are looking for on the dorkel here, try some of the other boards like CherokeeForum, GreatlakesXJ, Naxja, Pirate, etc.

I am set up similar as well (at least the shock mounts I am)

well said.

I don't recall needing to remove the filter to change the motor mounts. The passenger is the easy side too ;)

It can get confusing though. There is SO many different possibilities out there and with all the people they are dealing with they have to be sure. I am sure they get calls all day long from guys using odd junk yard axles they got out of a yard. It recently caught me odd when I realiized I have 3 rear dana 60s in the back that are three different tube sizes? (2.75", 3.125" and 3.5").

Just chop down a FF D60, and run SF 35spline shafts. If you start with a FF 60, chop to fit, and bang on some big 9" Ford housing ends you'll get the width you want, a stronger center section, thicker tubes, cheap to find, strong wheel bearings, and a good selection of Ford brakes to boot. You do have to worry about properly aligning the ends, and buying shafts. I think I got my Moser shafts for ~$300. Best advice on this thread :thumbsup: This is what I did on my MJ and what I do for folks on the side out here. The only different suggestion I would say IS to use an alignment bar and aligning the ends on the tubes in alignment with the carrier bearings. The reason I say this is I have NEVER seen a perfectly straight Dana 60 of the many I have done. They all seem to be 'off' a tad.

All the J20's and any of the 3/4 ton trucks I've ever seen were 8 lug. FC excepted. I have several J20 axle assemblies as well as a couple J20's if anybody really wants one. I've got one of the 5 x 5.5 semi float ones in my garage ;) It actually says 60-2 on the casting as well. They are not easy to come by. We found it for $100 with a WMS/WMS measurement of 65.5". If you want I can take a picture of it tomorrow for you. DD on pirate runs one as well: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost ... stcount=13 Jeep standardized the FS truck line in 1974, & went to open knuckle ft 44's + FF 30 spline 60's on their 3/4 ton's like everyone else. They also adopted the J10/J20 designations that same year (1974). So technically speaking, J20's were all 8 lug, with 30 spline FF60. The 3/4 ton 70-73 FSJ's with 5 lug 35spline 60's were J4000's. I daily drove one for most of the 1990's, and kept the axle when I cut it up. What I know about them: Thinner casting/tubes than typical D60's Wheel bearings are like $100+ each now Since the pumpkin is offset, you could chop the long side down to take a short shaft, and have something really close to 60" wide when you're done. Axle end pattern is a circular 6 hole style, same as 6 hole D44 front spindles (weird, I know). Almost all of them were factory geared at either 4.10, or 4.88's. 12" drums look huge, but fit inside every 15" wheel I ever tried. (& in response to Cracker's link): The only 35sp SF Ford 60's I ever heard of were C-clip axles, but I'm not sure if they made a C-clip D60 Detroit back then (or even now :hmm: ). Yup, that is it. J4000? Interesting. The drums are really odd too. We are going to convert it to disc anyhow but they are like 12" x 2". Ford continues to build semifloat 60s in their full size vans. (I have one of those in the garage too) It is C-Clip as well. The one out of a 2005 van I have is 8 x 6.5 bolt pattern as well.