yxmj

:popcorn: HA HA these posts are always the best for the head shaking entertainment value alone..... :rock on:

If you get stuck you can swap the input of the 207 into a 231. It involves some wrenching but has been done. . :MJ 1: .

Crawl Under it look for rusted out floor pans. I have the exact same truck. That wide rubber body mold is hiding more rust ( or probebly hiding holes were the rust has gone thru already). Mine has only 180,000 kms I was going to use it as the doner for the MJ . :MJ 1: .

You all changed the answer to injectors.....i am going back to the OP.. :thumbsup: sorry if my spelling is off The idea of space comes from old carbureted motors …..go look at old school v8s with just high rise manifold and single carb effective…yes…..but carbureted……they allowed the fuel an air more time to atomize and mix…..more bang for your buck…(same sales pitch in their ads but wrong)….this is totally impossible for a tbi or an mpfi motor……the fuel delivery is different…….

That's not an XJ/MJ shifter. It's out of a YG or TJ Wrangler, and they have longer shift handles. I have an '87 MJ 5-speed, and '88 XJ 5-speed, and a 2000 XJ 5-speed. The shift handles are all the same length. Shift throws are not massively long, but they're also not short-throw like a sports car. And it has to be kept in mind that the transmissions -- all of them -- aren't drag race transmissions. If you like to bang shifts like a drag racer, you WILL destroy the synchronizers in a short time. Like the man says that is a TJ shifter.....if you can't find one the right lenghth.....become friends with sombody with some fab skills....they are easy to customize

As long as the ends are the same and it has enough length it will work. :thumbsup: Since you are changing it...take it off and take it with you. To answer your other question my 87 AX5 was internal. To comment.....you do know that clutch lines.....like break lines can be fabricated......the only specialty tool need is one to make the double flare on the end.....some places rent them. . :MJ 1: .

Looks good inthe pic....The cap is a bonus. I have an 87 and I like it ......but mine was very low miles....... . :MJ 1: .

The best advice i can give on the purchase of any Jeep is CRAWL UNDER IT. Look for large rusted areas (especially the floor pans) upper body rust is easily hidden but the undercarrage never lies. ( it would be better if we knew were the truck was from?) If the pans are good and it is not overly rusty.......Offer him 2....... . :MJ 1: .

you do not need to pull he pump to test it.....run a known good +ve and -ve (12v) with some jumper wires and test it that way first (while still in the truck) . :MJ 1: .

Just by-pass the heater control valve (search on here it has been discussed a few times) You will need a couple of hose couples and some clamps if you want to ust the original hoses....or 2 new full length hoses. . :MJ 1: .

Here is a pic that would help....it would not (should not) be the 8.25....will not be the 30.....so it is down to the 35 or the 44......if it is bigger and the cover is really round with no indentations........ then you can have a happy dance. . :MJ 1: .

I don’t think he meant delete in a bad way….maybe just wanted to change his advice. Did you clean the ground cable good at the rear of rear of the motor by the dip stick? Fast check to see if it is a ground is to run a known good power source and a known good ground to the pump. If it runs good then check if it is ground or power by running a known good power source and a jumper to the original ground….if it is finicky it is your ground…..the opposite will show you if it is your power line. If it is the ground then just run a new ground wire connected to the chassis properly ant were safe. . :MJ 1: .

Don't get discourage.....many people do not learn to read correctly until much later in life......there is still time for you... :smart:

The only "Watch out" I can give you is stay away from ZJ blocks of the era you have outlined. They tend to be milled accesory specific and might not have all the boltholes you require drilled and tapped. As far as price....... :dunno:

Do you have some sort of a pop up blocker activated.....that might prevent the dialog box from opening when you add a quote...... :dunno:

I think there is only one person confused on this thread.....and it is not the OP

As Stated above......my YJ is a wrangler......as is a new JK......to clear it up for you when I replied to the original post I should have written: YJ XJ Older TJ ( I don't know if they continued to use the 4.5 x 5 pattern when they started offering 16" wheels in later years)......Gooogle is your best friend

You miss read....I Wrote "Older TJ ( I don't know when it changed)".....refering only to the TJ line......thinking they might have changed to 5 on 5 with the newer

YJ XJ Older TJ ( I don't know when it changed)......Gooogle is your best friend

Good tip........I hope you pumped out the aquarium BEFORE the tranny and the diff............ :laughin:

i here ya, but that being said, i did my bimmer oil pan with the ts kit and it worked great, a 20 minute fix. i covered the bit with bearing grease and the shavings all stuck to that. i then puored 2 qts of cheap oil through the enging and just let it run out to flush out any left over shavings. my concern is, is the yj pan robust enough to be tapped and an insert installed/ Pan has to come off either way right?.......Find 2 bolts that are same size but about 2-3 inches longer than his 2 left and right side pan bolts....remove and replace the two front bolts with the longer ones.....remove all the other bolts but the 2 back ones.....put a catch pan under the oil pan.......a small jack (crank style or hydrolic) would help under the pan sitting in your catch pan.....undo the last 2 bolts slowly lower the pan catching the oil in the catch pan......when it gets to the point of being manigable remove the 2 front long bolts....... Once you have the pan out now you can decide.... 1) you already have the time sert oil drain plug repair kit try to install it....with the pan out it will be easyier. 2) The method described above were you hole saw out the old bung and weld in a new one 3) $$$ new pan :dunno: . :MJ 1: .

Start doing some seaching on the internet and the JY.....Your answer will require some input from the good old YJ......that is the set up it had Here is a combined boot Mine has seperate.....Like this....(not my YJ just a generic pic) You can also get the combined boot in leather

Rear seal is on the way out :dunno: ......might not be visable leak but when the drive shaft spins it throws it outward forming the line you see.....not a hard fix.....New seal is under $10 and about 30 min work.

Maybe it was just water in the fuel.....the reason it is running ok now is that it has finally worked its way out......Up hear we run Methyl Hydrate (google it) in the winter to control the water build up caused by condensation when it is really cold.....it should be available at a truck stop or truckers supply....they use it to clear the moister out of the air break lines. Most gas stations around here have 150 ml bottles readily available to add to your tank. Try adding a bit….it there is water in there it will solve it. :thumbsup: . :MJ 1: .

Again checkh your wiring....it sounds the same as the XJ.....power lost to feul pump= stall