64 Cheyenne

oooooooooohhhhh, those are nice. But $300 bucks? I know they are Jeep, but any idea what model hey might have came in? And will they fit, physically, if you can get them in there, then I'm sure brackets can be fabb'd to make them work. If you do pics please...

:agree: 100 % Been there done that. Definitely support the use of NEW front turn signal sockets.

Got the trash can from Home Depot, or Lowes.

Maybe its psychological, I usually block the radiator when its below zero, seems to warm up sooner, heater seems hotter, toes feel warmer... works for me.

I'd give $25K but they'd have to throw in the dog... Heelers, best damn dogs ever made, on my 3rd one over the years, never own another breed.

Thought about trying to do it, myself, I don't think it has or can be done realistically. If it was, it would be stickied all over the web and 2dr XJ and MJ buckets wouldn't be such a big deal to get a hold of... If you do find a way please post and :bowdown:

Something changed, if you didn't do a ground refresh, I'd do one now. Then I'd make sure my front markers weren't all corroded, if they are, they can back feed and cause all kind of light issues. Then I'd think about the possibly of a bad light switch, or wiring, or possibly the key ignition switch might have gone out of adjustment and is causing anomaly's. The ignition switch is under the dash, connected to the key switch with a rod. There are 2 mounting screws that allow for adjustment, possibly this adjustment is out or possibly the ignition (not key) switch is bad.

Pull it back in line with a come-a-long, a BFH, and just a little bit of weight on the ground.

:agree: cruiser54, Quote: "all the thread derailment, pontificating, and lack of practical problem solving" are precisely why we need you to stay... Some people have all the answers, to all the questions, others might have an answer, but don't speak up, because they know that others might learn more, by sharing what they think they know... Me, I don,t speak up very often but believe me I'm always here, ready to lend a hand or a comment if I think it will really do some good. Besides how do our newer members learn...by their participating, maybe they won't be right or their ideas are kind of off, but even if they say something, they are still participating and learning. Mature knowledgeable people (like yourself) are one of this boards greatest assets, please don't leave, if you leave it would be like losing an MJ D44 they just don't come around that often... Remember, this group is about the love of our trucks...not about the Dhead who thinks he knows everything. (F em, they'll grow up sooner or later) quit giving them space in your head...we all know where our strength are on this board, and your one of them.

Anybody got an empty 20lb tank to sell? Got the hose and reg set up, just need a tank.

Empty Post

What gets me is they ship from multiple locations and charge you full price shipping from each one, this is why I don't purchase from them very often. Now that I've moved to a city (Missoula MT, Bachelors program, GO GRIZ!) the parts store is down the street and I don't have much reason to buy parts mail order any more.

I did this to the 88 (you can see good pics in my build), strongly endorse. I do not suggest that you try and weld it without putting in the strong back (metal backer in the door pillar) My friend tried that, worked for a little while, then had to take it all apart and do it the right way...

Definitely needs a new bf. Sounds like a control issue and will only get worse. sad

This would be a good place to secure the cable that is attached to the bottom of your tail gate (import tail gate cables work well), for those of you who worry about losing your tail gate in less than secure areas. As our trucks are getting older and parts have become more valuable, I wonder how many people have lost their tailgate because of lack of a lock. This seems a good idea, but as we all know its just a deterrent to some body who really wants your stuff.

don't forget YOU HAVE TO HAVE the piece that goes on the body side of the linkage (AX-15)specific. Holes are in different location for the linkage for other trannys. Probably where your main problem is, body side bracket. Most people grab the linkages, but forget to get the most important on, the body side. I usually take a utility knife to cut the carpet to get at the four bolts...

Quote: "turn signal indicators glow when the parking lights/head lights are on" Mine quit doing this when I replaced both front turn signal sockets, back feed was from there. My sockets "looked" good, but weren't. Miraculously, all my other interior lighting issues went away after that. I do suggest doing cruisers ground refresh, eliminates that possibility of bad grounds from there. Couldn't hurt....Then I might change out the switch.

Need a front driveshaft on the cheap. (My slip-stub is worn out) Lots of used out in JY XJs with AW4s I have an AX-15 w 4" lift Specs for the two shafts are: AX-15 29.25" AW4 30.66" = AW4 1.41" longer My question is, can I use the longer shaft from the auto since I have 4" of lift? Anybody ever run this longer shaft (Auto) with their AX-15?

This is why you should buy/acquire any non-running MJ with a title, even if its been wrecked or has too far gone body cancer. Take the important parts... Dispose the rest.

:agree:

Cuttin, modifying, welding the lever arms. Just took more time than it was worth. For ease of getting on the road and cost, you can't beat the stock linkage. My 88 Chief used to pop out of 4 low till I replaced motor mounts, I'd still back (use) the stock linkage.

The 95 airbag is all in the steering column, no link to the computer. I know this because I junked a 95, found I could use an older column without airbag and no computer issues. Besides the airbag in the 95 is pure fugly.

You don't need a spring compressor if that's what your gettin at. Support the truck with jack stands, I put them behind the lower control arm mounts, support the axle with a floor jack, remove the shocks (actually just the 2 mount bolts on the bottom), and the clip on the bottom of the spring. Lower the axle, springs should come out with a little persuasion and effort, but not hard at all. Probably have to remove the calipers also, just remove the 2 bolts and tie them up out of the way with tie wire.

:agree: I'd buy that. And welcome jomeza001 to the club

That's the direction I started to go at first, what a major PIA... Spent more time and effort than it was worth, if I calculated time and effort, I could have easily bought one of these: http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/shifters/kit_sk2x.htm So after all the effort, I went back to a stock linkage, why? because the custom one I did went on the 87 moneypit and I never got a chance to try it out. Chances are pretty good that I'm gonna buy one of the Novak kits anyway. BTW I did finish it, goes through all the gears just fine, never tried it out though. Another reason I decided against it was I got a Terra Low 4:1 with 2Low kit in it and didn't want to mess with anything that wasn't commercially engineered to shift it.