64 Cheyenne

I think you are supposed to change blades every 6mo (per mfgr suggestion for more $$$) or AT LEAST every year..... I had 2nd gen wiper arms that chattered, I fixed them by putting on new blades and tweaking/twisting the arm in the direction of the sweep to eliminate the chatter. And Don, I tried those blades, they worked great until it snowed, mind you, I don't use my wipers as snow brushes (they have a thing with a handle for that) but when I tried to get ice off of them they snapped. I still use them, but only in summer months.

Yup just replaceable studs, any parts store should have them. Might try taking the old one out to match up (double nut it and PB Blaster to get it out) Not sure the size, but not uncommon, and its an easy repair.

Why 96? for the OBDII? Myself, I steer clear of 96s if possible, kind of a bastard year, rather not throw anything else into the mix that I don't have to. FWIW, you can flash the codes on an OBDI just as well as pluggin in a scan tool on an OBDII. And not sure but since it's the first year of OBDII, I think you have to swap the complete dash harness because that is where the ECM and OBDII connectors are.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/48463-cruisers-mostly-renix-tips/ #2 Although this is for a C101 connector, it is applicable to the engine firewall connector you are referring to. And welcome to the club.

Maybe so, but I recommend waiting to install the CPS until after the tranny is bolted up, prevents the CPS from being damaged while you wrestle the tranny into place. Guess how I know...

Interesting, could you expand on this?

Factory mirrors with internal brace.

Pretty sure your average hardware store timer won't be up to the amperage load of a block heater, actually rather dangerous, puts your average timer at the upper limit of its capacity, which is usually about 15 amps.

Call it what you might but it is still one of those uber rare Jeep parts that I'd drive hundreds of miles for, give first born, left nut, etc

True. I don't know how old your mother is, but I went to high school in the early 1950s and the "cool" cars then had the rear suspension dropped (to the point that some actually put small wheels under the rear bumper to protect it when entering driveways and such), with fender skirts for the rear wheel cutouts and continental spare tire carriers. There were some cars like that in the student lot at my high school that would easily win first prize if they showed up at any hot rod show today -- and they were the kids' daily drivers. What goes around, comes around. Yup still waitin for porckchops, bellbottoms, and nylon shirts to come back, the old lady's convinced they never will, she says she wants her closet back, me I don't know...

Dexron in the TC, 30Wt synthetic in the tranny.

Censorship? When I was young, it was all about how high off the ground your trunk lid was and it was even more bad @$$ if it could smoke the tires three straight blocks.... Never mind about hooking up (traction). Then there was metal flake and those tires that stuck waaayyyy out. My mom told me when she was young, @$$ draggin cars were a fad, goes to show that bellbottoms are coming back around, but I doubt I'll be able to fit any of my old ones... My point is roddin, wheeling, (general term) IS about being different, most of us have modded our trucks in ways that make US happy. As far as the tail draggers, well this is America. Some might think it is stupid, but I was young once and I can guarantee an @$$ draggin truck wouldn't be one of the stupider things I've done. Far as this post goes, makes me want to turn the 87 into an @$$ dragger just to piss opinionated people off and because I can. BTW my DD is a dropped S-10, it's still a truck, still hauls, just low. Hopefully I'll get the 350/T350 installed this winter. My point is why be knockin for being different or are we being judgmental?

Stock MJ mirrors like that have a factory strongback in the doors. (structural support)

So is this my understanding, don't go after their insurance company if it's repairable, sue in small claims court for the damages....

The one that you don't pay an arm and a leg for, actually, either tranny for that motor the AX-15 and AW4 are both known for their reliability, only real choice is preference.

I'm curious to see how bright they are, me I'm not a fan of extreme bright dash lights, and the fact that you can't dim them....

Can you elaborate on this some?

Most everything on most of the time (lights), $104 last mo.

I so agree, it doesn't matter where or how you put energy into the system (your house or shop) it's still going in, and you get the added primary benefit of light. Actually I leave most lights on in the house all day long...furnace don't run as often...go figure. Think I'm wrong, don't turn the tstat up on a Sat morning, watch the temp rise from the TV, coffee pot, toaster, washer, dryer....you get the idea. Specially if you got a family.

I don't know about the 4wd lever, but if it was me, I'd just cut the top of that YJ shifter off, weld new stud, replace shift knob, easy peazy.

The front office mandates that I work on the Chief before I start anything else....

:agree: I bought high output CFL and LED lights, both tube and round. I took all the conventional shaped round LED lights back, couldn't see paying $20 for a bulb that put out less than a cheap CFL. Kept the $35 dollar tube LED from Costco, only because I wanted to try it long term (for the $$$ it still sucks, and I suspect it flickers because it is plugged into one of those screw in plug in adapters for a light socket). Then I went to our local home resource center (love that place, buying many building items new is just plain wasteful and stupid, usually they have what I need for real cheap), picked up a few of those 300 & 500 watt construction light fixtures for like $3 a pop, hard wired them, and couldn't be happier. I've found a few real disadvantages, high heat output, and short bulb life (I buy cheap replacements at HF for about $3 for a pack of 2, bought 6 packs yesterday) I also left the glass off to make changing bulbs quicker and easier. Maybe in the future, I'll convert to full LED tubes, but for the time being, $35 buys an awful lot of cheap 300 and 500 watt bulbs.

You have a full tank of gas...

Suggest converting to full circle clips that can be gotten from most auto parts stores and some hardware stores. FWIW, converting to full circle clips is a cheap easy upgrade worth tons of reliability over the stock C clips. My experience, new u joints on my old axles, with new lunchbox, stressed the axle on the right side (31.10s 4.10s) popped the c clip, ruined my new r/side axle shaft. I call it new cause it was my two piece to one piece axle conversion.

Changed my mind, I'll stay out of it.