dasbulliwagen

It will definitely be cheaper to put a used axle under your truck than to rebuild your current one. Youre looking at $500 plus to rebuild a rear end. Find an 8.8 with discs, or an 8.25, have the perches moved where they need to be and call it a day. As for just doing burnouts and stuff, that is VERY hard on spider gears. That might be your problem right there.

There's a thread on naxja called junkyard upgrades that has tone of info like this. I would link to it but am on my phone right now. Good stuff!

Not that I know of. I started out with an internal kit but found that the clutch and pressure plate are the same part numbers between the two just the throwout is different. Maybe you put the disc in backwards?

I like a lot of stuff. But pop country is just about the worst thing out there. I've never been much of a country fan. But after discovering Patsy and Johnny and the Hank 1, I've come to know there is a difference. Then I found Hank 3! Oh man! If you haven't heard any of him look him up. He sounds like his grand dad but I'd dirty and gritty. Good REAL music. This all comes from a guy who grew up with Metallica, Zeppelin, Sabbath. Got into 90's grunge and now love some Staind, Korn , Floyd, nuevo bluegrass like Crooked Still, The Wailin Jennys, and top it all off with Beethoven.

Dos comancheros. 86 y 87.

I ran into this when I did mine. I swapped in an 86 2.8 trans to my 87. I didnt notice at first but the new slave cyl didnt have the pointed plastc end on the rod. This lengthens the rod a bit and without it you won't get full disengagement. I swapped the plastic end onto the new slave rod and all was good. Check this before you pull it all apart.

Do you have a link to where we can see more of this thing?

I did this once too. Rode my little Honda 70 to the local Honda shop open house. Rode side streets till I had to cut through a couple parking lots to get to the next street that would take me there. One was a restaurant then a parts store. I made it over there fine. No helmet. No registration. Nuthin. On the way back I went the same way. I cut into the parts store lot came around the corner and there's a sheriff car and the officer standing there giving me a dirty look. I just smiled at him and kept on my way. I was lucky he didn't follow. It was funny though!

Coolant dummy light came on today, made it back to the dealership and it started puking. I think my elec fan stopped working. Need to check into that.

Keep the AC and convert it to on board air. There are writeups about doing that and what is needed. If you don't want that its really no big deal to keep it on there, it just freewheels when not in use. If you do remove it maybe you can do an alternator relacation to get it up higher to protect it while offroading. As far as whats required to remove it, is really no big deal. Disconnect the lines at the firewall, the compressor, and condensor. Remove the condensor. Tie the wiring up out of the way, Thats all that really needs to be done if you want it out of there. What you do concerning the compressor is up to you. don't remove the charcoal canister or any of the evaporitve lines. These don't affect performance and actually take care of fumes and stuff you don't want to be smelling all the time. You can diconnect the EGR without any issues. Do your research before doing that on how to do it properly without affecting anything else. You probably have a disconnect style front axle. You can lock that over into the on position full time and do away with the vacuum controls so you don't have to worry about it failing and leaving you with only 2wd. There are writups here to do that as well. Good luck and let us know what you end up doing.

The computers in these are almost as bulletproof as the engines (2.5-4.0). I wouldnt worry about that part. Youll have problems with wiring and connectors no matter if its carbed or injected. Oh, and the 2.5 is throttle body injected. Its a fairly simple system. I wouldnt worry about it.

I'm not sure anyone on here had had a 2.8 stay together long enough to get an exhaust leak.

For the problems you describe that truck is not worth anywhere near $3500. If I was asking 3500 theres no way I would accept any less than 3000 for anything I would sell. I say move on and find a better truck.

Is yours a 2.5 or a 2.8? In the case of the 2.5, it could be a cracked manifold, or it could have broken manifold bolts, usually at each end that would cause a gasket leak. If the bolts arent broken now, they will probably break when you pull the manifold to check for cracks. There is a factory TSB on these with a new part number bolt/stud and a plastic sleeve. The 2.5 also has EGR so its possible the tube is rotted out also. I have no experience with the 2.8, so I can't tell you what to look for there. Good luck and let us know what you find!

I agree. If you're looking for s little more in the front still I would go with the 3inch springs. And for what you're doing to keep ride and angles good in the front you may want to look into control arm drop brackets.

I had to go through their Facebook page send a PM with screen name and password info then they will PM you back with access.

Go to www.4bangerjp.com and do some research before you decide. Ton of good 2.5 specific info there for mods. Most are for 91 and later port injected motors but a lot of stuff crosses over especially concerning the engine itself. Good luck.

I mentioned the trussing and frame plating due to your request to be jumping it. Once you do one jump, you'll want to do more. That is harder on your truck than you know. The shock load is huge even from the 2 feet you mention. Trussing isn't that far off from looking stock. How many people look under there anyways?

Sleeve and truss the Dana 30 and truss the rear axle. Adjustable control arms maybe with drop brackets. Plate the frame where needed especially around the steering box. Dual diaphragm brake booster. Non intrusive interior roll bar and bed roll bar.

The ice caps aren't causing sea levels to rise. Its the rising number of boats that are in the water displacing the water causing it to rise. We just need to get rid of all the boats.

It would be fun to have a sawzall party. Too bad I'm not closer. Glad you're doing well. Take it easy and listen to your docs!

The HVAC box, condensor, and all lines will work at least to 87 I know. The 86 2.8 V6 and 86 -87 2.5 use the same radiator and condensor so a condensor and lines from an 86 2.8 will also be an option. And when I was doing the wiring from the 88 model diagram, most all of thise were the same also, at least close enough for me to figure out what I needed.

I did this to my 87 with some parts from an 86 2.8 and bought used compressor brackets to mount that. I had to make some of the harness to make it work. In my 87 there is a connector for "dealer installed AC" that I connected what wiring I didn't have to. The under dash connector for the HVAC box already had the wires in it I needed for the new HVAC box and wiring to work. I transferred the whole HVAC box with cables and control head all together and plugged it right in. The wiring I didn't have I made following the wiring diagram in the downloadable 88 factory service manual. It works great but leaks down within a years time. I can live with that. Good luck with yours.

Ignore the little window. It doesn't help you with anything. Recharge the system to the proper amount and if all the parts are working properly it should work. My own system will leak down over the course of a year so mine needs recharged as well. I converted mine to R134a. There are refrigerant conversion calculators out there to go from R12 to R134a but I have found my system likes about 3 pounds of 134 to work good. Let us know what you figure out.

I used that download to add AC to my truck. The 2.5 and 4.0 diagrams are different so make sure to read the right stuff.