dasbulliwagen

Ive never been able to grow a full beard, I hear there is some American Indian in my lieage, but up until almost two years ago when my dealership got bought out, I've had some sort of facial hair since my high school senior pictures were taken in late 1990. The new dealership owners have a no facial hair below the upper lip policy, so not wanting to have just a mustache, it all came off. When I did have a mustache, I had the soul patch under the bottom lip just like in Quigley Down Under... but I had mine first! When I decided to get rid of the mustache (after cutting my long hair) I only kept the hair under my lower lip and grew out my chin. But its all gone now.

1972 VW Beetle: spun a rod bearing on the highway at 80 MPH, limped it home. Same 1972 Beetle after replacing engine: broke a fan belt which hit the fuel line putting gasoline on the hot exhaust = FIRE 1984 VW Rabbit Diesel: broke a timing belt, bent all the valves, junked it. 1959 VW Microbus Heavilly modified/ lowered: broke a pushrod, sounded like engine was coming apart, towed home 1976 Ford Maverick: rear bumper fell off as I was driving it home after I bought it. Mom was following, laughed her but off. Same 1976 Maverick: broke a belt in a tire on a long trip, tuned around and limped 100 miles back home on the shoulder. 1985 Ford Ranger: broke timing belt, coasted into a friends shop, replaced the belt in the parking lot.

I did the same with mine, removed the studs from the firewall after the box was out, then used 2 part epoxy to reinstall them afterward. Worked fine.

Got my adapters and wheels on today. There is slight rubbing while turning and driving, nothing I don't think some slight trimming won't take care of. And as for power loss, it wasnt noticable, at least on the short trip from the dealership to home. Though I never made it to fifth. We will see how that goes later. The old 235 BFG's were all but done for. There was still a little tread, but the dry rot was getting bad. I got 6 years of driving out of them, and considering I got them used and for free, I think I did pretty good! The new JK wheels look good, but now my truck looks dirty and old compared to them. Its a couple of inches taller now too! Ill try to get some pics tommorow to post.

Yes, the second one is a Bantam.... The Bantam. From the bit of research Ive found, there really isnt a whole lot of value in these. I paid $60 for the Flyer, and have seen the Schwinns going for under a hundred. The Schwinn seems to be much more common. The only examples of the American Flyer Ive found havent been Flyers, but Columbia Converticycles.... same bike but with chrome fenders. There is little to no info that I can find on any of those. I asked my dealership body shop about painting the frame an automotive color today, so hopefully I can get that ready pretty soon and get this thing knocked out. Ill keep you updated!

here's the next one. Shes getting bigger, and is ready for a bigger bike. We bought her a Jeep bike, 14 inch I think, but she was just about too big for it when we bought it. This one is a 20 inch made maybe in the 60's or early 70's. It is solid, but well worn. The guy I got it from put new tires on it and threw in another seat and training wheels. I think I'm going to paint it whatever color my daughter wants and generally clean it up, straighten the fenders and get it ready for another generations use. And as you would know it, after I bought this one, I showed it to a freind of mine, and he says " I have one just like that you can HAVE if you want it." His will need new tires as well, and who knows what else. I havent seen it yey. Ill get it this weekend. This one is a Schwinn. They are both convertable bikes meaning they can change from boys bikes to girls bikes, and both are missing the boys bar. There won't be much customization on these, so hopefully they won't take very long to do. here's a pic of the Schwinn.

OH, and let us make sure youre not talking about a FULL size Wagoneer or Grand Wagoneer. The SJ. Those are NOT good donors for XJ/MJ.

The rear of the XJ waggy has the same two light setup as the comanche, it might not be an issue with a waggy donor.

Ive seen the CPS go out shorting the 5V reference, causing all the sensors on that 5V to go out. This is the most common failure, I would replace the CPS first. Ive also seen the "distributor" shaft wear out and wobble causing wierd misfires and cutout. If you can, take the cap off the "distributor" and try to wobble the shaft. If you have any sideways movement, replace it. At higher RPMs the shaft will wobble causing the sensor to not pick up correctly.

I agree about checking battery cables and grounds. Ive had and seen this issue a few times. Mine did this after I bought it, it would sometimes just not want to crank, but the dash lights and stuff would come on. I cleaned the battery terminals and cable ends and that was that. Ive also seen the ground cable go bad going from the battery to the side of the engine block. I don't think these would cause a stall issue when coming to a stop. I'm not sure if the AW4 has a lockup converter in it or not, but Ive seen on other vehicles if the converter doesnt come out of lockup, it will stall the engine coming to a stop.

Watching PBS show "Peg plus Cat" tonight, episode "The three bears Problem". Its about the three bears and they are musicians looking for a fourth person fo their band. One character they look at has an amp, and they made a point of showing that it turns up to "11"! I'm sure at least a few of you guys knows where this comes from. Just thought it was cool! If you guys don't guess it Ill chime in later to let you know.

I was gonna say, the 968 number sounded right, but mine is an 87. I didnt know the 86 was any different.

don't get me wrong, I love my 2.5, I just want a little more, which is my plan for the rebuild. Ive done a few things already to mu current one, CAI, elec fan conv, "free flow" cat, Flowmaster 50 series muffler. It has all helped a little, just want a little more so it doesnt seem like its struggling so much. And for the reason of this update... I just ordered my Spidertrax wheel adapters from Quadratec.... I ordered from them because of free shipping and no sales tax. Hopefully I won't have any issues.

Start looking for a good used 2.5 to drop in. Yours is done, will at the least need a rebuild, at most a full replacement due to broken internals. Keep an eye out on several Jeep forums and find a new engine. I bought a full running one for $100 a couple of years ago when a guy was pulling one out for a swap. They are out there. Good luck.

I'm not sure, but I think the 4.2 head will bolt to the 4.0 block allowing the use of the carbed intake, or allow you to buy a 4 barrel intake for it. Someone might even chime in and say you just need the intake, but I'm not sure the ports will line up properly. I agree though it would be easier to just get new (used) engine and dash wiring harness to make what you have work properly. The 4.0 is a far superior engine. You would need a complete 2.8 donor to make that work. It will be less work and less money to just replace the wiring. The 2.8 (3.1, 3.4) swap would require the engine, A904 auto trans, transfer case, driveshafts front and rear, linkages.... how is this easier than replacing the wiring?

Chrysler shows build date as May 17, 1989. Originally sold at Lancaster Jeep, Lancaster, California Options list doesnt show engine or trans spec. Shows engine code EPD and trans code DCK. It does show 3 .55 axle ratio though. its also Calif. Emissions, might be the reason for 3 .55 axle ratio and 5 speed if thats what it had.

don't all of the AWD tranfer case jeep require the front axle to not have a disconnect? Might be something to check out before installing.

I recently got a new shift knob for my AX5 from Crown. It is exactly like the stock one except for its texture. Maybe the original had texture to and was worn off, I don't know, but otherwise its exactly the same. Didint cost much either. i think I found it on Amazon.

Ive heard ZJ rear coils will also lower if installed on the front If I'm remembering correctly. ZJ is first gen Grand Cherokee up through 1998.

Going by this tire size gear ratio spreadsheet http://comancheclub.com/topic/27178-tire-size-gear-ratio-rpm/ which shows me the same as i saw on another thing like that, that the original 215 tires I had and 4 speed with three.55 axle give me near equal to 32 inch tires in 4th at four.10 geared axle. Yeah the tires are bigger which has an effect, and the Goodyears arent ideal tires, but i don't really go offroad, and I havent had complaints at the dealership about the Wrangler SR-A's being a problem on the JK's. My sister in law recently just replaced the original ones on her 2007 JK with another set of the same, and never had an issue. If they do seem to be too much i have a set of 255/60R17's that have a little good tread on them. They are betwen 28-29 inches tall with a fairly wide footprint. They would fit good on the JK wheels if it comes to it and would bring back any lost power. I have a rebuild of a spare 2.5 in the works with some power upgrades, that may make this all null and void about power issues. So time will tell.

The later NV3550 trans is another good choice. You do have a few options. If you want an auto, thr AW4 is also a very good trans.

Fix the evap canister lines so you don't get fumes, but you can delete the egr system. Running should not be affected.

I agree again with the 3.4... Jeepcomj went through several transmissions too with the 3800 because it was too much power. But if youre set on the 4.0, get a complete running donor so you can just swap it all over and see what the differences are in the radiator core support in order to swap it over as well.

The trans options for the 4.0 were the manual AX-15, which is the good one, the Puegot BA10-5 which is the bad one, and the AW4 automatic. Either the AX-15 or AW4 will be good choices as both are really good transmissions. None of these trannies will bolt to a 2.8. You should have the Chrysler A904 auto in yours, which isnt a bad trans. Its a smaller version of the TF727 and is readily buildable. It was offered behind Chrysler 6's and small V8's for many years. One option I'm not sure if you have thought of is swapping in a GM 3.1 or 3.4 V6. This would give you better power and reliabilty without having to go through all the problems of a 4.0 swap into an 86 as it is pretty much bolt in. You could keep the GM fuel injection as well if youre ambitious. There are writeups to make it a stand alone system and easy swap in from a complete donor like a Camaro or Firebird.

The stock drive train isn't bad at all. There are a few tricks you can do to the 2.5 to get a little more umph. www.4bangerjp.com has tons of info and tech specific to that motor. Good luck. We hope you get it!