dasbulliwagen

Compression and leakdown test?

Theres nothing wrong with the 2.5 either. But I agree, a 4.0 swap is best if you intent on doing a swap. If your 2.5 is still OK, try going here for some upgrades. www.4bangerjp.com

Ive had the steam out the cat happen to me as well, just burning off whats left. It scares you the first time you see it though thinking you still have a problem.

Even after reading that writeup, I still don't understand how he made dakota lights fit a comanche without cutting the hole out bigger.

If youre looking for a daily driver, and not off roading it, the Dana 35 will be fine. They have lived under my truck for over 300,000 miles with no issue, but also no offroad. If the gearing in that axle will work for you, it might be just what you need to make for an easy swap.

You might try to jump the fuel pump ballast resistor too. It should be at the top of the left front inner fender, al little white ceramic thing with two wires. jump them to take that out of the equation.

^^^ I agree with that as well. I started out with a 4 speed and 3 :55's, switched to 4 :10's. That was with 235's. It ran great with the 4 :10's, though I wish I had a little more, and your 4 :56's would be about perfect, especially now that I added JK take-off wheels and tires at 32". But still, even with 235's I wish I had more. I think youll be dissappointed in your power if you go to higher gears. And if you go to 3 :55, your fifth gear will be all but useless as you won't have enough power from the 2.5 to make use of it at those speeds.

I did one on a 258 I had in a Grand Waggy. You don't need to worry about the distributor at all assuming the drive isn't broken. If it is OK just bolt the new pump on and as was said crank it for a little while with the coil unplugged to build pressure then you'll be fine. You should confirm the pressure issue and fix the leaks though no matter what.

I never thought about it till now but when I swapped to a 4 :10 rear end I ordered new ones from Crown. They were smaller than the original bolts. I'm guessing now after reading this that they were XJ bolts. Does anyone think that will be an issue? I'm guessing probably not since they've been on there for several years now. Just made me wonder about it.

Just remember, to install these doors, the striker plate needs modifying as well.

I like the S2000 seats. It would be worth some fan time for me in order to keep from having to pay for custom reupholstering.

When I did mine recently, the new slave shaft was too short compared to the old one. The old one had a plastic cone shaped tip pressed on it to complete the proper length for the slave shaft. I removed the plastic cone from the old one and installed it on the new one and all is good. Your previous owner probably lost his or it broke so he welded on an extra length to make up the difference. it won't fully disengage without it.

Does anyone know what gear ratios were commonly found in these axles? Would be good to know if looking for an already geared junkyard upgrade.

Did you say the other guys insurance is sending you to a doctor. I think thats another no no. The insurance co doc has the ins co to work for, not you. Get your own doctor and your own med opinions independant of the ins co. Thats the only way you will get a real answer about your health.

This info is from Chrysler. I can get a full build sheet as well. Build Date: November 6, 1991 Vehicle Sale Information Selling Dealer: 24237 - AUTONATION CHRYSLER JEEP WEST Sales Type: 1 - DIRECT RETAIL City: GOLDEN State/Province: CO Country: USA Telephone: (303)278-0101

When I did the waggy clip on my 87 2.5, I added dual horns. I didnt know that the truck was already wired for two horns with the other horn connector just not plugged up, till after I wired 2 horns to the original horn spot. They are wired originally to have one on each side of the radiator. I think the original single horn was on the driver side and the second horn on the pass side. If you look over there for the wire you should find it. I agree too, to make sure you don't have a wiring issue before replacing the horn. As was said, have a buddy press the horn button, while you have a test light to ground checking for power at the connector. If thats good, replace the horn, if not, then.....

It is pressed on and there are special removal and installation tools you need to do it. The bigger parts stores will loan them. Doesn't take long to do.

I vote 33's. Just because its mostly a driver. 4 :56 or 4 :88 would be better with 35's

It has been the general consensus in the past that the Jeeps ignition system is already a high output system and there is little to nothing to be gained by upgrading to hotter parts. As long as all stock parts in the sytem are good, there will be almost no gain by upgrading. At least not enough gain to consider paying what that new system will cost.

http://greensboro.craigslist.org/cto/4399729618.html 1988 Jeep Comanche Pioneer 4x4, long bed, sunroof, 4.0 6 cyl , 5 speed manual, stereo, 98k, ice cold air. Excellent condition. $5,500 High Point, North Carolina

Every time I do this, I end up needing something that I just got rid of. Never fails. Makes it hard to get rid of stuff. I have a bunch of JK stuff now, (and I don't jave a JK) I have been thinking about selling some, but I know as soon as I do, Ill need something or know someone that does. Ive given some to my sister in law who has one, but she really doesnt need any of it. Ive used a few things on my truck, shocks, wheels, which is probably why I'm hesitant to get rid of any, as I know some of it is usefull even for us MJ people.

I bought a complete running used 2.5 from someone doing a v8 swap for $100.00 Keep an eye on the classifieds here and in other Jeep sites and one should pop up pretty quickly. If you have ay local 4x4 websites you could look there too. I'm not sure where you are, but I know the local one to me is www.nc4x4.com, of in the Great lakes region there is www.greatlakes4x4.com A search for a site in your local area should turn something up. Good luck.

Yes the 2.5 is the same block and trans. The TJ has a different injection system than your MJ though. You could swap all the original stuff over from your old one though (intake, exhaust, sensors, acessories) and it will all be good. Stay away from the NP228. It is a nightmare of vacuum lines and not very strong. Someone else should chime in about the 242. Good luck!

^^^^ At my dealer we run into that sometimes as well. It usually means someone has changed the locks at some point, so not always the dealers fault. In that case you should remove the door cyinders and take them to the dealer and have them re keyed with new tumblers to match the key, ot have them look at whats in there to make a key to fit it. Most good locksmith shops can do this as well.

Take your registration and ID with you to the dealer and they can make you a new key just off your VIN. And as long as your old cylinder is still working maybe you can get a new one of those made too to make the whole thing new and fresh. I worry a little about a new VIN cut key and old tumbler set sometimes. The tumblers are brass as well and eventually wear too. In order to get it out easilly the key needs to be able to turn still in order to be able to press the release button for the cylinder.