dasbulliwagen

The 228 I had in my Grand Waggy blew up on me. I had it replaced with a 2o8 from the same vintage, but it never really shifted right, I think because the linkage was different. I sold it shortly after that ordeal. Just remember youll need correct linkage that goes with whatever case youll swap in.

I know its not a step bumper, but mine is off an XJ, it fits nicely. I had to make mounting brackets though, but that may be needed for any other different bumper as well.

I must be thinking of some other Chrysler product... maybe the 5.2 5.9?

The ones Ive installed have a piece of cardboard ( not the corrugated kind ) glued to the sensor tip. You install it firmly to the flywheel ring and then the cardboard is ground off leaving the proper gap.

here's a question that I don't think has come up yet Remy..... What is your intended purpose of this type of engine build? Drag racing? Daily driver? Rock Crawler? Desert runner? This may help narrow down any help we can give you, but like was said, experience with this type of build is extremely limited on this forum. Our experience with performance gains has mostly been limited to working with the existing induction system for reliability and budget concerns. Or all out V8 swaps... again due to budgetary reason for building a straight 6 to the same horsepower. We are all mostly a bunch of cheap bastards and will do what will get us the best results for the least amount of money, and a custom high strung induction system is almost never an option considering that. I love what youre trying to do. It is a beautiful setup, but our experience shows this not to be the best option. But if this is what you want, go for, and let us know how it turns out. There are enough of us here that will appreciate it for what it is.

You keep asking for someone with experience with the side drafts. Again I refer to my earlier post. Maybe it was overlooked?

The only Comanche I've seen on this site with a setup like you're talking about is worldsfastestcomanche. There is an entire build page stickied to reference. You might try contacting him for more details.

Jim stole my picture! I'm so honored!

Having been into high performance air cooled VW's I know the price of those carbs is not cheap. And finding someone who can tune and balance them is all but impossible anymore. Don't get me wrong I love the look of the carbs but they aren't practical in something that is already set up with a decent injection system that is known to be tunable. Just my 2 cents.

On a stock motor you would not see the kind of gains that are possible with these on a fully modified motor. There are plenty of 4.0 upgrades that will get you up to the extra 30 horse you want and be easier to tune and at a similar or less cost than what you're talking about. Do some research and you'll get to where you want to be.

As of a couple years ago the caster shims were still available from the dealer. I know many of you are averse to going there but it is still an option. I know wheel balance is first and foremost with this issue but if caster is where it should be it will make it much more difficult for the wobble to get started.

I've had the same issues too. It doesn't work very well using IE but works better on chrome.... still has been slower than in the past though. Why can't they just keep stuff simple?

When I had this issue with mine, I did an alignment on it and added more caster, I havent had it since, the other parts were checked as good or replaced already. The caster adjustment is at the rear of the lower control arms, spec is between 6.5 and 7.5 degrees positve. Getting toe right will help as well. When you do a lift all these angles change, and need to be adjusted properly to drive right.

Youll need to join them on facebook, then send a PM for membership access.

The spyder is my dream car. And I'm fine with replica!

There is a TON of good info there at WWW.4bangerjp.com for the 2.5. I joined over there a week or so ago. There are a few people over there that are literal encyclopedias on these things. From cold air kits to turbo and super charging, big valve heads, porting, rockers... its all there. O can't believe I hadn't heard of it before now.

My father in law needs a new all wheel drive vehicle soon. I sent him to look at one of these and he loves it. Says it is the first NEW car he has liked the looks of in 20 years. I'm not sure how wants that much of a car payment though.

The price on those on rock auto must have come way down since I last looked at them a few years ago. I had a used set I got free but they were stolen. I guess its time to look into new ones again!

As far as the heated seats, there was a recall of a recall of a recall on those. If youre lucky you can get the fixed for free, if you buy one, send me your VIN and I can look it up for you through Chrysler and see if you have the recall or not. The 4.7 also sounds awesome with a Flowmaster on it. Not bad vehicles all around, I would have one if fuel milage wasnt an issue.

You guys keep going at it... we can change the name of this place to "Land of the the Locked Threads"

The ones I've done in the past have just kept rusting or rusted worse after the fix. I agree it is temporary or just a band aid. I know I'm in North Carolina now but my experience was in Michigan. I'm glad I don't have to deal with that anymore.

I agree, most stock intakes are already COLD air, but I think most benefit is had through smoothing the air flow out making it easier to get into the motor. The stock 2.5 airbox has a restricter in it too that I think is removable.... that would help a little if you don't go full new COLD air intake. Ive done the COLD air intake, the electric fan conversion, and gutted my cat conv, and installed a flowmaster 50 series muffler. It made a little difference, but I don't think youll see enough power increase to get what you want out of it. I love my 2.5, but it sounds like the only thing that will really help you is a complete 4.0 swap.

The ONLY thing the AMC 2.5 has in common with the Iron duke is the bellhousing bolt pattern... nothing else. The injector and throttle body swap only applies to 91 and newer models with port injection. You could swap to the newer injection system completely, but that would involve a complete engine compartment wiring swap, new computer and dash harness and guages as well. If youre going to do all that, may as well swap to a 4.0... would be a similar amount of work to do. As was said, cold air intake, electric fan swap, free flow converter and exhaust, ground cleanup, maybe a throttle body spacer, though there really isnt room for that already and its effectiveness is up in the air though I think only because port injected guys wouldnt see any benefit from one. Beyond that its either cubic dollars or cubic inches. Good luck.

In post number 4, he asked you to not reply on any of his threads (at least that's the way I took it). Please for all our sakes, just do as he asks so we can keep drama here to a minimum. And by "here" I mean the entire forum. I personally don't have any issues with you, I just love this place and like that it is mostly drama free. I'd like to keep it that way.

^^^ All good questions. If you don't have adjustable control arms, some control arm drop brackets would be in order, and as stated, the adjustable track bar is a necessity. Longer shocks are also in order.