dasbulliwagen

The grille is in upside down... makes it worthless, offer them $20 bucks, see what happens!

Welcome! The 2.5 is a great motor. We would love to see some pictures.

It was sending power out and it was reaching the starter. The ground strap was OK. I even added another ground. It didn't help. I had a new starter sent over and installed it.... it fired right up. Something was causing the solenoid on the starter to loose ground when it was torqued down. Thanks for the suggestions and speedy responses.

Ive checked everything, the wire from the relay to the starter solenoid, the relay is working. it is acting like the solenoid is not getting ground through the starter body while installed in the truck, On the bench with the neg of the jump box attached to the starter body, the pos attached to pos lug, and the button attache to pos lug and solenoid connector, it all works properly, but won't do this in the truck, even with another added ground wire.

Getting my MJ back together after putting the AX5 4wd trans in. I got the exhaust back in and the starter. The starter won't turn over. I checked power to the starter, good, starter is grounding good as you can jump the positive lug to the other large lug for the motor and it will spin, but trying to jump the pos lug to the solenoid connector does nothing, but if you take the starter out, and hook it all up on the bench with a jump box, and a starter bump switch, it all works properly. The starter bump switch has a light on it to tell you if it is hooked up and seeing continuty through the solenoid or starter motor, and it lights while on the bench but not in the truck, so I added another ground wire directly from the starter body to the battery, no change. the solenoid won't work while in the vehicle. Do I just need another starter? This thing has me pulling my hair out!

I'm not sure if they are different or not as I've never seen one, but the 84-85 model xj 2.5 is carbed factory and may have a different style distributor that may be better suited for aftermarket stand alone ignition system. This would need to be confirmed though.

I think the only real pros about getting JK shocks would being able to get them cheap and they are slightly longer. Just a good option if you can get them cheap or free like mine. Otherwise aftermarket one are fine. And there is a shock compatibility guide somewhere on here too that might help. Good luck.

If you can get one with a manual trans, it will be marginally OK to own. They do have trail rated models, but they are only available with the CVT trans.... and you definitely don't want one of those! Take it from a Chrysler Tech, those things are horrible! The newer models are now available with a 6 speed Hyundai automatic trans that is a vast improvemnt over the CVT, but its still a a Patriot. Good luck with all this!

Ok, I think I'm getting this right, but may be off as I don't have my truck in front of me to look at. The front lower point on the MJ uses a bar pin, and the Jk ones don't. You can press out the bar pin from your old shocks, press out the inner metal sleeve from the JK shocks, and insert the bar pin into the JK shocks in place of the lower metal sleeve. Then you can mount the front shocks. You may need some lubricant to accomplish this, and a press or a large vice would be extremely helpful. For the rear, you need to press out I think the lower shock mount metal sleeve from the Jk shocks. The MJ mount uses a large boss and doesnt require the sleeve. Be sure to use a large washer on this so the shock doesnt slip back off over the bolt.

I agree with Pete. The parts for the small lift will give you the good ride youre looking for and be easy to install. I think an alignment should be a requirement, otherwise death wobble will be much more likely to occur. Get it done professionally, and make sure they adjust toe AND caster. As for shocks, sometimes you can find JK Wrangler take off shocks real cheap on craigslist or your local Jeep forum. They are about an inch longer than stock and ride real good. I have a set on my MJ. It doesnt matter between Rubicon or regular JK shoicks, as they are all about the same length. The JK shocks need minor mods to be able to work, but it really isnt a big deal. Let me know if you want to use a set of these and Ill tell you whats needed to ake them work. Good luck.

I agree with the rear sway bar. Many that I've seen on the rear for these are so small that I can't see how much good they would be. I think one similar in size to the front would be best for you especially with the slide in in place. You might look at grand Cherokees or Durango's to find one to adapt.

LF9[edit]The LF9 is a 350 cu in (5,737 cc) diesel V8 produced from 1978-1985. Earlier versions and those used in pickups produced 120 hp (89 kW) and 220 ft·lbf (300 N·m) torque, while later versions produced 105 hp (78 kW) and 205 ft·lbf (278 N·m) torque. Applications: Buick – varying model years of Century, Electra, LeSabre, Regal, and Riviera Cadillac – varying model years of de Ville, Eldorado, Fleetwood Brougham, and Seville Chevrolet – varying model years of C/K, Caprice, El Camino, Impala, Malibu, Monte Carlo, and Suburban GMC – varying model years of C/K, Caballero, and Suburban Oldsmobile – varying model years of Custom Cruiser, Cutlass/Cutlass Cruiser/Cutlass Salon, Cutlass Supreme/Cutlass Calais, Delta 88, Ninety-Eight, and Toronado Pontiac – varying model years of Bonneville, Catalina, Grand Prix, and Parisienne 1980–1982 Checker Marathon

Ive only ever heard bad about them. It was never originally desined to be a diesel. I think I heard they like to break crankshafts.... Just NOT a good engine.

Got the AX5 and NP207 installed with new clutch setup, new slave, and found out that the driveshaft I bought for this project 4 years ago actually fit! Still need to finish stuff up to get it drivable. i just hope it all works like it is supposed to. I have new U-joints to install, new park brake cables, factory front skid plate and transfer case skids, Herculiner bed liner, undercoating, and some freebie rock rails, and finish up the trailer hitch I started building a while back. It also needs paint. All in due time...

The old system used a different refrigerant than what you are trying to install. I think its R12, which is no longer available. You probably have a r134a refill canister. And obviously if you can't hook up to it, youll need adapter fittings. But if you still have old refrigerant in the sytem and top it with the new style, you might have problems. WHat you really need is to take it to a shop experienced inACconversions, have the fittings installed and the system evacuated of all old refrigerant and refrigerant oil. To do that, it needs to be in a vacuum for a long period of time, In a case like this I generally like to have it under vacuum for between 90 minutes and 2 hours. This will boil all old oil out of the sytem so that you won't have issues with the old stuff. It is also good practice to install a new receiver dryer as well when doing this so you have new dessicant in the system. It will cost more having it done this way, but I think it will pay off. Good luck!

AX4/ AX5 internal and external slave bellhousings are the same part. The internal slave model doesnt have the studs for the external slave or the ball stud for the throw-out, otherwise they are the same. And through comparing part numbers, they use the same clutch disc and pressure plate between the two as well. The driveshaft for a short bed 2.5, AX5, 231 combo will work in a 2.5, AX5, 207 combo. This is assuming that the 207 was only used in the 86 model Comanches. If I'm wrong please let me know. The driveshaft I bought said it was out of an 87, so I assume it was with a 231. I was really worried about this one as I bought the driveshaft 3-4 years ago for my project to convert to 4x4. Measuring the differences in the 2wd and 4wd trans setups comes to almost exactly 12 inches longer for the 4wd one, but measuring the driveshafts I came up that the 2wd one was about 13 1/2 inches longer than the 4wd one I bought. Looking at the 4wd one installed on the lift with the rear at full droop, I have about a full half of spline engagement in the t-case output, so looks like I will be good! All I have left now to finish my 4x4 conversion is re attach exhaust, install crank sensor, install the little bracket that supports the t-case shifter, bleed the clutch master and slave. I also have new U-joints to install, but those will come after I can get this thing moving again. And I guess I need a new speedo cable as the 2wd one is way too short now. Never heard about that being an issue before in reading about other peoples conversions. Oh well. Its also getting new park brake cables as soon as I get the chance as well. Mine have collapsed on themselves rendering the park brake useless.

Ive been wondering the same thing with the same wheels. We have a spare set sitting for sale at work that are new take offs. I think they might look good. Would be great to get a pic though... maybe someone can do a photoshop?

don't get too stuck on what the part numbers are. It will just make you crazy. Like was said, all the 2wd and 4wd parts will bolt up the same and get the job done. If part numbers are different it just may be due to factory tuning for different models, though all parts are the same externally. For example, I was once told by a Chrysler trainer that there were 13 different front strut part numbers available for the Chrysler 300.... to specifically tune between engine and wheel/tire combinations. This is something most people wouldnt notice if the parts were swapped, but that the manufacturer needs to do.

At 4 1/2 inches, you would be good to get adjustable control arms and track bar to put everything back where it belongs after the lift. This will take care of the alignment issues youre having.

The ZJ has the same front axle as the MJ, XJ, and TJ but is low pinion. The V8 tie rod is an upgrade, and the V8 sway bar is also an upgrade. There are differences in the engine mounting so stuff like that may need to be researched bfore digging to far into them. The wheels can be swapped on if you like them as well. Some people have swapped in ZJ seats, though I personally don't care for the style The WJ you can use the front brakes with some modifications, and the booster/MC with minor mods. Also the upper and lower front control arms, also with minor mods. If you switch to the front brakes the steering can then be used also if shortened. I'm not sure about the seats that were mentioned. Here are some great threads on naxja for junkyard upgrades... http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66012&highlight=junkyard+upgrades http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=951380&highlight=junkyard+upgrades

It doesnt help either that the track bar adds tension to the driver side as well. I noticed this when installing a new one in my truck.

Got the 4 speed trans pulled, rear main seal replaced, and ordered new u joints, clutch master and slave and new clutch stuff. Will attempt install next weekend.

There are a few diesel swaps in the projects section, using various engines. Ive seen one using the mercedes benz diesel, another using an isuzu, VW has been done, 4BT obviously. The cost of doing these swaps is often more than you would be able to make up in fuel savings. You don't do this swap to save money, you do it because you want to, or you need or like the low end torque on the trail.

Got my 4 speed out today and compared the bell housings and they both have the spots for the 2.5 crank sensor. Just FYI.

If you go to www.allpar.com youll see some numbers for XJ's. They are seperated 84-92, and 93- 02, as there was some difference in design i guess. They really werent that bad either. They also show a full list of other models and their stats. There are a BUNCH of other vehicles with worse records than the Jeeps, which is why Marchionne told them to screw themselves.