dasbulliwagen

Push or pull depends upon which side of the radiator you mount the fan on. If you mount it in front of the rad you want a push, if it is behind the rad you need a pull. All depends upon mounting position.

2.5 4 speeds usually came with a 3:55, the 5 speeds usually came with 4:10. If the XJ axle is 3:55 like you say, you will see no improvement. I just swapped my 3:55 to 4:10 and I havent noticed a lot of difference at slow speeds, but I now find myself reaching for my not yet existant 5th gear, and it seems my speedo is now off by 15% or so. So it has made a difference. My original plan for my 2.5 4speed 2wd was also to do a prerunner, until a 4x4 donor fell in my lap cheap. If you don't want to do it twice, get a 4:10 8.8 and youll be much happier in the end. If you are just looking to get it driving till you can get a 4:10, find an axle from an MJ so you can just bolt it right in.I'm sure theres someone on here that would be happy to get rid of a decent 35 for almost nothing. Just post an ad in the classified section.

My dealer is still alive!!! Still have a job... at least for now! The owner of my dealer was very optimistic about not getting cut. Evidently we are number 51 in the country, the only dealer in this county and there arent many, if any any where near us going south. I think the only thing any of us were worried about was that our dealer also sells mazda, and Chrysler Co. doesnt really want two different brands in the same building, but I guess we will be OK. There was a big dealer in Charlotte that got cut which suprised everyone, Metrolina is their name. But in bigger areas like that with multiple dealers I guess if they are going to make cuts, it would be expected that they would start in areas like that. Back in Michigan where I'm from, there were 42 dealers cut, Three of them in Kalamazoo, which is a neighboring city to Battle Creek where I'm from. Thanks for the support guys!!! :wavey: :wavey: :wavey:I also heard that the dealers getting cut will be stuck with all of their inventory, cars, everything, chrysler won't buy them back. If your dealer desnt have a liscence to sell chrysler products after june 9th, what the fudge are they supposed to do with everything? Sell the cars at auction for what they can get for them? Try to sell the parts to other dealers? Open up your own NOS Chrysler parts ebay store? It will be interesting to see what happens to say the least!

Will that front axle pass tech inspection??? That thing looks scary! :eek:

If youre getting a 35 from an XJ youre gonna have to weld perches anyways, so why not just go with the 8.8. Go to car-part.com as previous posters have said and find a good 8.8 from an exploder with limited slip, weld the perches, fix the park brake cables, and head down the road! :thumbsup: Edit: Just looked up axles in socal area and found 2 pages worth at between 200 and 700 bucks for ford explorer between 95-01. good luck!

If your oils not milky, its not coming from the oil pan, and if it was, it wouldnt be pretty green. Start at the front top and work your way down. Front edge of the oil pan is the near the bottom of the water pump. Just replace your water pump and thermostat and youll be good to go. Seeing that its coming from the front of the block, its probably not a freeze plug. You should be able to see all the freeze plugs except for the ones behind the flywheel/flexplate. Water pump/tstat is my informed guess. Or you could clean off all the green coolant, and then pressure test the system with a hand held tester, and see where the leak starts and go from there.

If your truck had AC original, and that plug goes to the AC pressure switch, the wire colors will be green, and green with black trace.

Uness its a Dana 44 from an XJ, I would go with the ford. Youll have to figure something out with the parking brake with the ford, but I hear its no big deal.

The second one could also be the connector for the AC pressure switch, it is the same as the one for the power steering, just different colored wires. But I just realized, the AC one wasnt in my truck until I hooked up the unused flat 4 wire connector on the driver side wheel well next to the washer bottle. I brought that connector over from the donor truck, thats when I found the one for the power steering half burned up from sitting on the exhaust manifold. Same style connector though!

If it can be welded and re tapped, then you will have to deal with the possibity that metal shavings have gotten into your oil galleys going to screw up who knows which bearing in your engine. I'm not sure that it would be possible to repair that properly with the engine in the truck and together. At least not to the point that I woudnt be worried that everything would be OK when its done. The redneck answer would be to use some JB weld and a little praying, not that Ive ever done anything like that! :yes: :yes: :yes:

I have an 86 Comanche X and it has the same setup, buckets and full console. :thumbsup:

We would be greatly appreciative if you could send us some of the results of your free photo session Brenda! We are all happy for ya!

AHHHHHHHH!!!!! I should have known! I would love to do that myself, but its highly unlikely that Ill get to anytime in the near or not so near future. Good Luck!

Whats a 4BT??? :dunce:

Unbolt your upper shock mount and then try lifting again to see if it makes any diffference. If not you need to be looking for where the suspension is binding. Though it does sound like your shocks are the limiting factor. If they are the problem, replacing them with ones of the proper length should also improve the ride, as when youre in rebound, the upward movent of the body won't be so limited and hit the full extension on the shocks. Try unbolting them and see what happens.

Yes those are tranny cooler lines for an automatic trans only. Not sure if part of a heavy duty package or not. Most auto trans have them. They will not work for a BA-10/5 as they are not needed. If you are converting to manual, just disconnect them and put plugs over the rad ports so nothing can get in there.

Thats the rear axle vent tube to allow for air contraction/ expansion. They usually have a cap on the end that floats there so that dirt water don't get into the axle. just tie it up better or leave it, its not hurting anything, and has nothing to do with your brakes.

I noticed when swapping the rear axle this weekend that the bracket the prop valve rod connects to on the axle was different between my 87 SWB and the 86 LWB. They mounted in diferent spots on the axle diff cover bolts. My 87 mounts centered to the axle and the 86 had to either mount above or below the center of the axle, can't remember which, but the bolt spacing fro each of them is different. had to swap the original to the new axle. Ive never heard anyone mention this as long as Ive been on here. Just wondered if anyone else has seen the same thing, or if its just the difference between LB, and SB?

I tried that same thing here recently, finnally gave up... Id like to know too!

Jason Crandall, 1987 Comanche Sportruck Asheboro, NC

If you can catch your fingernail in the scratch, none of the polish products will work for you. The glass is too hard to do very much when it comes to polishing. The polish compounds are really only for micro scratches and haze, and usually you can't even get all of that out.I would just keep an eye out for a new/used window. I'm sure someone on here can help you out with that... no telling what a junkyard would want for just a glass, probly be cheaper to buy a whole door. Good luck!

You will also want to check the caliper slide pins, if they are frozen in place, when you tighten the caliper back on the caliper should slide over on the pins to allow the caliper to float and not be hard on one side against the rotor. If you are replacing the calipers then youll have to remove the slide pins anyways, make sure they are clean and well lubed with some brake lube or lithium grease. Good luck!

How are the yokohama geolanders working for you? I was thinking of getting some of them myself.

Finnally got around to installing my 4:10 rear axle, bled the brakes, hooked everything up, tried to adjust the parking brake only to find I'm running out of adjustment and still don't have any. Looks like Ill have to swap the cables. I have yet to drive it because at this moment I'm recharging my AC to see if I can get it working any better. I was able to get my full original charge out of it so I don't think its leaking. Maybe I overcharged it, or it may need a new H block??? ..........have been messing with it right now....pressures arent right. I'm not sure whats going on with it...Il have to do some troubleshooting research....or maybe the HVAC housing is not closing off the heater core enough???? Time for a test drive!

Why would anyone want to make a Jeep look like a Toyota?????? :huh???: :huh???: :huh???: