dasbulliwagen

And don't call him hun!

If you thought Mj people were crazy, you aint seen nothin! Volvo people are out there....way out there! And usually pretty pretentious. I'm not saying that you are Oizarod115, but thats been my experience. Glad youre back, we need all the help we can get here! :nuts:

Dirty Ernies Rib Shack right near the New River Gorge Bridge... the highest single span bridge in the western hemisphere... beautiful country! Dirty Ernies has some of the best ribs around with large portions....good stuff. Its also a good area for white water rafting with many rentals in the area. And once a year they shut the bridge down to allow people to parachute off of it... a huge festival for the area every year, I think usually in september or early October.

At the jeep dealer I used to work at, the owners stupid teenage daughter had an XJ that she put 22" wheels on. I always thought it looked pretty good. And yours looks pretty good too...now if you just had the body work done and some really shiny paint...... :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Judging by the height of the garage door in the pic, I think youre gonna have to lower your MJ, because with it lifted, it aint never gonna fit through that door! :rotf: :rotf: :rotf:

Assuming you get a title with it, and that you can make all the stuff work. Sometimes youll get a salvage title, but you can still drive on that in most states I think. If it is as good as you say it is the JY owner may have kept the title aside and not sent it to the state as a salvage vehicle. Let us know what happens...I'm interested. Good luck! :thumbsup:

Youve got wayyyyyy toooo much flippin time on your hands! :nuts:

LIVE ON SWEET THREAD... LIVE ON!!!!!!!!!!!

Pulled the front axle out of the donor truck to clean it and prep it to be painted prior to putting it into my 87. Scraped all the heavy built up gunk off of it and then pressure washed it. It is now ready for a quick brake clean bath and then some black satin rust control spray enamel. I need to clean the springs too and paint them while I have them out. I'm hoping that the 4wd front springs don't lift me in the front too much as they look like they have about one more full coil than the current 2wd ones. I guess if I have to Ill need to get some longer shackles for the back to level it if needed until I can spring for the full lift and SOA. Still need to get all the O-rings I need for the AC lines too so I can get that charged and working soon. Itll bet getting real warm here very soon!

Puller mounted on the end of a big slide hammer!!!! :thumbsup:

The man mentions liking the Datsun 510, I think he is looking for something a little more original than a freakin honda. Yeah the hondas and toys are reliable, but wheres the style? Ill give you a quote from my favorite Automotive journalist Peter Egan... "Art and technical perfection are not the same thing in cars, and hard-core car buffs often prefer art...Which is why they own so many tools!" If he has the opportunity to buy something different, with style and a hint of reliability, I say go for it! There are just too many cool examples out there for him to buy a stupid honda!

Are you talking about the Denman style on the old military Jeeps??? Coker Tire has reproduction military tires and lists all the dimensions, maybe they could be the source for the info you are looking for to get the size you want from your "sources". Good Luck!

The BMW 2002 would be a good choice. Huge aftermarket following, decent prices for a decent car, and they are available if you know where to look. Sporty, classy, but with good gas milage. You could probably find one built up already with all the sporty goods too. I do love the air cooled VW's though, but I don't think I would choose one for a 60 mile round trip commute. Ive done every mod you can think of to air cooled VW's, but it still doesnt improve reliabilty or gas milage. It would be fine for every once in a while drive, but not every day. If you want a diesel VW that you can still work on, the older Rabbits, Jettas without the turbos would fit the bill, and you could covert one to look like the GTI, GLI models with the body kits and wheels, and still get close to 50 MPG. Theres a company ouside of Detroit, MI that carries every water cooled VW part you could ever think of for really good prices...new and used. Hope this helps you with your decision! :cheers:

How in the world can you get 10" lift from an SOA??? :huh???:

I'm not sure how the clearance is to the rear driveshaft, but maybe you could make a dropdown or spacer for the rear ebrake splitter, that should give you some extra cable room. I'm not sure what evryone else has done, but Id be curious to find out as an SOA will be in my future. Good luck!

It might just be easier if you found some XJ rear spring shackles and dropped the rear an inch. That way you won't have to go through taking all the front end stuff apart and have to get an alignment. Just an idea! :thumbsup:

My fuel guage when I fill up goes to 1/4 tank real fast, but then it seems likew it will run at 1/4 tank for a long time, but seems like empty is correct so I havent tried to fix it. Find out what size tank you have and if you think it really is close to empty, you should be able to fill it close to what it is supposed to take. But yeah, fix your speedo first.Then go from there.

I thhhhink immmmm gonnnna be siiiiick!!!!! :ack:

I can't beleive that you are telling someone on here to go to Rusty's! Have you not paid any attention at all??? :nuts: :nuts: :nuts:

:huh???:

The last time I took a Greyhound, they lost my bag, and when I got it back they had rifled through it and took whatever they wanted and even added stuff to my bag that wasnt mine! I made a claim with them for it, but they just sent me a letter in the mail saying you can't prove anything, Fork You! Theyll never see another penny from me! :fs1:

I would think that on todays thin sheetmeta cars, that using lead to fill holes would cause major panel warpage. Thats the reason they don't use it anymore, that and that its poisonous to use, touch and breathe the vapors. By the time you get the panel hot enough to melt the lead youll have more problems than you started with. And while I'm not currently a body man, I did go to school for it and would like to think I know a little of what I'm talking about. The spot weld with MIG is the best thing you can do to fill the holes. They make copper backing plates now just for that purpose if you can reach the backside, though for little spots like that some pennies would probably work too. Good luck with it! :thumbsup:

I would like to see what everybody really thinks about their MJ's strengths and weaknesses in as great a detail as possible. I know we all love them to death, but why do we love them? All the little nuances that make them what they are good or bad. Lets hear what you think! :thumbsup:

I agree with the Castrol 5w50. Been using it in my Hyundai Accent since I bought it with 36000 on the clock, I now have 147000 on it and it still runs as strong as the day I bought it. Though if you have a rod knock, you may want something heavier on the cold end like a 20w50. That might buy you some time if it really is a rod knock. I am currently using Castrol High milage in my MJ. Owner said he replaced thee engine at about 140000, Clock now shows 341000, so I assume my rebuilt engine has 200000 on it. Afraid to put synth in an engine with such high miles......sorry if I hijacked :doh:

Chrysler has specified ATF+4 since the late 90's, they now have a formula of ATF+4 specific to power steering. It can be purchased at any dealer. Also, the Lucas additive is a must... Good shtuff!