dasbulliwagen

If you go to tirerack.com you can see ratings for all types of conditions and customer reviews from people whove actually bought and used the tires. And you can compare ratings between brands and prices to see what might be a better deal. Ive used their data to decide on tires for all my vehicles, but have never bought from them. Just a good place to get good info.

I think its time for you to go to a different inspection shop. If they are going to be concerned with .5mm of play then farg them. I'm a North Carolina inspector and while we do a safety check of those parts, as long as they arent slopping all over the place, it will pass, even with torn boots. The state book says it will allow 3" of free play in an 18" steering wheel and be able to pass. There is no specific mention of ball joints, but I guess you just have to use common sense when it comes to that. With the economy the way it is I'm sure that shop is trying to upsell as much as possible to get business and being sticklers about any possible thing they can try to sell. can't blame them, but at some point they are just going to drive customers away.

100 first and second time... too easy

BFG AT's have the rep they have because they are a high quality well built tire. There are others copycats out there, but like our other friends said, the way its built makes the difference. Ive tried the cheap tires too, only to encounter disappointment with ride or wear, or cupping, or just plain having the tires rot off before they are even worn out. It does pay to buy the good stuff, if only for your own satifaction.

It appears to have Toyota style 6 lug wheels, and the cab and bed body looks kinda like toyota also. Wonder if this thing is for real, or something someone built for their own amusement? Gotta be more of a real Jeep than a frickin Compass or Patriot! Kinda cute too. I think its growing on me!

I had been looking for a cheap truck for quite some time. It had to be cheap in order for my wife to let me even consider buying something. I told all my friends to keep and eye out for something thinking I might find a full size ford or dodge that would need some work. Then one day, my friend Chip told me a buddy of his was getting ready to move cross country and was selling everything off. He had this 1987 Jeep Comanche that had running problems for $250. I went to look at it expecting to have to tow it home. Looking it over, I saw it had 336,000 miles on it! It was completely rust free too. The owner went up to it when we got there, hooked up the battery and it fired right up, although it didnt really want to idle. Needless to say I told him Id take it, and I drove it home with my wife following close behind. I tuned it up, put some fuel cleaner through it, and the more I drove it, the better it ran. Score! My next deal I found was a free set of BFG A/T 235/75r15 tires. Working at the Jeep dealer checking over a used wrangler, drove it, noticed that the tires rubbed on the control arms, and said nothing about it considering what good shape the tires were in. A few weeks later, they had it sold, but the stupid customer complained about the tires rubbing. I told them there was nothing we could do about it except to replace the tires with the correct size....so they did! They had us put on some plain jane el cheapo street tires, and evidently the customer was happy. And now I had a set of BFG's for my MJ. I put those tires on a set of wheels I bought off of a Grand Cherokee for $100, I beleive the fromer owner referred to them as the honeycomb style. I painted the centers of the wheels from the original gold to a charcoal grey. My wife kept calling them my big pimpin' wheels. Until I got them all mounted up, at which point she said they looked pretty good. And how about a rust free parts 1986 Comanche X with a blown up disassembled 2.8, red bucket seat interior, full console, 4x4, Ax5, NP207, 30, 35, aluminum wheels, longbed for $125??? :yes:

Mine works just fine, but it doesnt hold the brake tight enough. I have adjusted the rear shoes and got just a little better tension, but it still doesnt give the nice tight feeling you like to get to know its gonna hold on a hill. Is there any adjustment for the cables themselves? I havent had a chance to look for one yet and havent noticed any threads on here adressing that particular part of the parking brake.

Eugene the Jeep, was one of those annoying characters I always hated. Right up there with Scrappy Doo, and that stupid alien guy from the flintstones, and Shemp and Curly Joe. Unbridaled ignorance I tell you.

I love my Jeep, but Ive also been involved with air cooled Volkswagens for 20 years. Including the legendary Beetle, Microbus, and Karmann Ghia. I don't know how I got it by my wife, but she agreed that we could name our daughter "Ghia". So on Oct 21, 2008 Ghia was born. I hear stories every once in a while about people naming their kids like this, just wondered if anyone on here has done the same thing, or am I the only crazy one? :nuts:

Actually FIAT is buying Jeep. Gods honest truth. They were given a 35% stake in Chrysler in order for Chrysler to be able to sell small fuel efficient cars in the US. They are looking at getting another 20% soon, probably from Daimler who still holds 20%. If you don't beleive me , look it up.

Did a little more research, I think the 4 cyl Dakota did not come with a 4x4 option, but came with the same trans. Looks like if you take the 4 cyl bellhousing and mate it to a 6 or 8 cyl trans and tcase assy. everything should bolt up as far as the engine trans connection is concerned. If you get the 4x4 trans with a bellhousing , it would leave you with a spare part for a possible future 3.7, 3.9, 4.7, 5.2, 5.9 swap depending on which vehicle you get the trans from. Just some fruit for thought here. I'm not necessarily going to do this trans swap, but I want to know all the options in case somthing happens in the future, like I get a lot more money to spend or my current setup blows up and makes it that much easier to convince the unknowing wife that I absolutely need this for the MJ! :brows:

Am I right in assuming that the nv3550 will bolt up directly to the 2.5, transfer case and all, with the only things to be fabbed being the trans mount crossmember, speedo, shiftters for trans and TC, and custom length driveshafts? Seems to me the complete assy being transplanted would be easier, but then again we are working with 20 plus year old trucks....

Did deeper searching in the given link, found someone doing it... the NV3550 to an 88 XJ 2.5. I will copy and paste here.... "I am also taking advantage of this info, thanks again, I am putting a 3550 behind the 2.5 an '88. I found a pilot bushing from AA pn 716167, it's a conversion pilot for the 2.5 /4500, but the two trannys share an input shaft diameter so it will work out with less headaches from the parts store. For some reason the later (88) input on the ax-5 didn't extend that extra .5 inch. ( so says AA) but we'll see once I put this together. I also purchased a conversion hose and fittings for the slave cylinder p/n 716130h-hose,716130f & 716130tj-both fittings from AA, my stock 88 master to a newer 2000 slave. now all I need is a slave cylinder. I found one at Q-tec but it says i need to reuse the hex screw. any thoughts?? I am going to try napa once they open. get a clutch disk, fork, release bearing and figure out how to mount the 3550 to my skid and i'll be all set, hell I might just go ahead a make a flat skid with a custom mount. thanks" This gives me a little hope ;)

I did a search, and all I came up with was the use of the bellhousing as is stated in the link you posted. Does anyone know if the AX15 is the same tranny as the nv1500,3500,3550? And if the Dakota tranny behind a 2.5 in an MJ would be a viable swap, if in fact it is not an AX15?

Yes it is common rail diesel, the system work similar to regular fuel injected cars, but at much higher pressures, that CRD does not have what you would think of a normal diesel having an injection pump with a steel tube running to each cylinder. The CRD has a common rail feeding all the injectors the needed pressure.

I was working on a 2001 dakota with a 2.5 5speed yesterday, and was wondering if the NV1500, NV3500, NV3550 trans from these trucks in either 2wd or 4wd would work with our MJ's? Has anyone tried this before, or even noticed if it might work? It would be great to have more options for all of us out here trying to keep our trucks alive and well. I realize that most of us arent too interested in keeping our 2.5's around very long, and that something like this probably hasnt been too high of a priority. Any info you guys have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

If every subject has been covered, and we tell everyone to just do a search, then what is this forum here for? May as well just be a Comanche wikipedia. The fuel filter is on the frame rail, real easy to get at, as far as that plug, I have no Idea, I havent been lucky enough to get one with AC yet. I like the platinums too, but not sure if they are any better than anything else. I think I put platinum Plus 2's in my 2.5, I havent had any issues. Not sure about the idle as it is controlled by the computer, check for vacuum leaks, and maybe try to clean out or get a new Idle air control. Ive yet to have an issue with that as well. Good luck!

I'm not a huge offroader, but isnt the purpose of the bumpstop, to keep the wheel tire combo from digging into the body at full articulation??? If you do the thing with the forklift, or on an articulation device, get your tires stuffed up in and if the tires hit the bumpstop before hitting the body, youre ok, but if they hit the body, you probably need longer bumpstops. That would take some proper measuring and fabrication or whatever. I'm sure it would be different for everybody depending on the amount of lift, backspacing etc. And some really good BBQ is at Dirty Ernies Rib Shack, just up the road from the New River Gorge Bridge in West Virginia!

If you just want a little more, you may want to go for a spring shackle lift, should get you about an inch and a half or so. I know on here nthat the shackle lifts are a naughty work, but if you don't abuse your truck too much, you should be OK. Good luck!

If youve never heard a 4.7 with flowmasters...... its a thing to behold. And for some reason, the WJ's look great lifted too, like a bad a$$ sockermom!!

If you go to some of the replacement wheel websites that do nothing but offer one stock replacement wheel, some of them will allow you to see what wheels were offered for your particular vehicle during that model year. I was interested in a set of Grand Cherokee wheels for my MJ and explored what it would cost to get a set. I'm not sure of site names, but I'm sure there are multiple ones, and a simple Google search will get you there.

I'm a Jeep dealer tech, in order to program one yourself, you need both original remotes. You unfortunately will have to go to the dealer for your new remoteto be programmed. At the same time, they can erase the old remotes from the system so if whoever stole the old ones wants to get into your jeep with the stolen remote, it will no longer work. Good luck, and thank you for your half hour worth of labor that you will pay one of my brothers!!!

My 87 MJ does this, it is the fuse, at least in mine, the fuse itself is good, but where it contacts in the fuse box the terminals are corroded and sometimes it doesnt make good enough contact. Go out to it in the dark with a flashlight to locate it, and then shut off the light, and wiggle the fuse with your finger, it may show little tiny sparking while wiggling it and the fan will come on and go off. If this is the case, you either need to get a new fuse box, or try to clean the terminals and maybe add a touch of dielectric grease. Good luck.

I have most of these parts lying around, just wondered if it would be a good swap or not, thank you again.

I'm not sure, but I think I remember reading that WJ spindles could be put onto an MJ dana 30 front axle if you changed to the WJ ball joints as well. Is this true? I don't remember where I saw this, but that would also allow the use of the CV axles and the upgraded brakes. If anyone has done this or knows if if it can be done, I would like to know. Thanks