dasbulliwagen

The 85 Ford bed would be wider, bigger etc, but with some mods, I think it would look great. The gas door is even in the right place1

Pulled the dash on the 87, to swap in the HVAC housing. Found out that the HVAC housing has its own main harness connector, which connected to the dash harness in the 87 that already has all of those other wires in it! So hoping that the next step of adding the compressor and lines, I will also be able to find the wires apready there.... wish me luck!

The 1985 Ford F100 has a nice stepside that has the angular styling that the Comanche has. I don't have a pic of one, but know that it would look good with the Comanche body. One of these days Ill get to post pics up here and work something up on Paint to match pics of both of them up together to really see how it would look. :thumbsup:

Theres an adjustment bolt/ threaded section at the other end of the cable under the bed. it has two nuts, one of them is a lock nut. Just loosen them up, hook up the pedal end and then set your adjustment where you want it. :thumbsup:

If I had the 1200 to get it, I would grab it up. Like previous poster said, if they are rusty you would usually see it in the seams. A nice full size is a thing to behold. Take our advice and save this truck, if only to resell it to one of us! :banana:

The driveshaft doesnt need to be off to check, just grab the pinion and see if there is movement there that shouldnt be. just turning the shaft to check the U-joints are bad may not show a bad pinion bearing. You could pu the rear up on jack stands, chock the front wheels real good, and have someone run the truck in gear for you to see if you can duplicate the noise. It has work for me before diagnosing a bad pinion bearing. Just do it in an open area and stay out of the way if the vehicle falls, and the person inside can be ready to hit the brakes. Or better yet, do it on a lift in a shop. If the noise is truly speed related and in the driveline, you should be able to hear it doing this. And if not, then time to check to front end! :cheers:

Seeing as how you say you have the AW4, it could not be the BA10 making the noise. Could be the pinion bearing in your Dana 35, assuming you have the Dana 35 like most of us do. Go under your truck and see if there is any slop in the pinion going into your rear axle. If there is a lot of up down side to side play, it may be time for you to look for a new rear axle. Good luck! :thumbsup:

Yeah its funny, but does this really need to be here.... most of that is really not family oriented. I don't mean to be a Butt hurt, but this is a Jeep MJ forum, not a place to post dirty jokes. :shake:

I'm working on a 1991 XJ today and found one of the rear shocks had broken a bolt for its upper mount. So I advised the customer they needed new shocks, and have the broken bolt drilled out. They bought the repair and new OEM shocks. The parts dept brought the shocks out to my bay, and the boxes look really old. I looked at the date on the order sticker on the bax, and my dealer ordered these shocks in April of 1994. These shocks have been sitting in this parts dept for 15 years! They seem like they work OK. And with Mopar parts there is a 12 month, 12000 mile parts warranty, So I guess if they go bad anytime soon, the customer will just have to come back.

Does anyone know if the dash wiring in a non AC MJ will have all the wiring hookups for when I add the AC housing? Same question for the steering column if the wiring is already there for the intermittant wipers I want to add from the donor MJ. I know ill probably need to swap the wiper motor too for the intermittant feature, but is there anything else that may go along with that or should I just start digging through the wiring diagrams on alldata? Thanks for the help!

The Grand Wagoneer I had was THE most comfortable vehicle I have ever owned, but like previous poster said, " the gas milage can't get much worse". Mine had the 258 six and never got any better than 13 MPG. If I had the money not to worry about fuel prices, Id have me another one, only without all the Michigan rust out. :yes:

WJs are known for their evap hoses going bad behind the left rear wheel at the canister. If it is a small leak it could come and go like you say, or it could be an O2 sensor like the one I replaced yesterday on an 04 WJ 4.0. Take it to your local national auto parts chain store and have them read the code for you for free. At least youll know where to look then.

There is no banjo where the brake line goes into the drum. The Line just screws into the wheel cylinder with a normal flaree fitting. This is assuming you have rear drums and not a disc conversion. If you have a rear with discs then you may have banjo fittings, but you havent specified weather or not this is the case. I have never seen a drum rear brake setup that uses a banjo fitting. There is a bolt there that the wheel cylinder bolts to the backing plate if that is what you are thinking is the banjo bolt. if you could give us more info on what you really have it would help us out to help you out! :thumbsup:

Pulled the rear axle out of the donor truck, cleaned it, painted it, installed the new stainless braided brake line, cleaned and inspected the rear brakes which look like new, and then temporarily put it back under the donor, SOA.... it looks cool like that, can't wait till I do it for real!

Had the opportunity to look at a 4.0 MJ with AC. The alternator is in a different position, down lower than the 2.5, but it doesnt look like it would work on the 2.5 because the frame narrows in at the rear and if the brakets were the same, the alternator would hit the frame, so I had my dealer parts dept look up the brackets, copied the pics and sent theem to the local Jeep JY. We will see what materializes soon. But I got my compressor, PS pump and resevior, pressure hose, and receiver dryer ordered, so maybe this weekend we can start the conversion! :banana:

You can go to autozone.com and purchase an alldata subscription specifically for your vehicle for about $20. It is all the factory service manuals copied onto one website. It is a great resource for shops that work on multiple makes of vehicles...allthough the subscriptions shops get will give you all vehicles down to a certain year and cost a lot more. If you are going to do a lot of work yourself on a vehicle, the $20 is really worth it. :thumbsup:

Just order a case of them from the dealer and keep them around, I think it would be more of a pain to convert one tghan to just get the filters.

You don't really need a newer compressor to go to R134a, you just need a retrofit kit to add to your R12 system. Ive done this conversion several times, the last one was on a Cherokee. The customer hasnt had any problems that I know of. Its been almost a year now since I did it. You need the rerofit, and a good evacuation machine and pull vacuum on it for about an hour. This will get all the old oil and any moisture out of the system. You should also replace the receiver dryer/ accumulator at the same time. There are conversion charts available to tell you how much R134a to add according to how much R12 the system is originally supposed to take.

I am looking to covert my 1987 2.5 Sportruck to AC and power steering. Are the acessories from a 4.0 the same as on a 2.5? I think this would really help me to find the needed brackets if they are the same. I seem to remember seeing it said that they are the same, but really not sure. I have the HVAC housing, condensor, and lines from my 2.8 donor truck that are all the same as my 2.5, the compressor would work it it didnt have the V-belt setup. Did you know it cost less to buy a reman compressor with clutch than it does to buy a new clutch to replace the V-belt one on the compressor I have? Funny! Also looking to add the power steering setup too, but I know the pumps are different from the 2.8 to the 2.5. Any help would be greatly appreciated so I can get this project moving! :banana:

The gasoline sprinters came out in 2007 with the body redesign. It is a 3.5 V6. I used to work at a dealer that sold them, and even not being a trained sprinter tech, did do some oil changes, and don't remember there being anything special to do them. They have a cartridge style filter that goes in from the top. You have to change the cartridge O-rings at the same time, but its no big deal. I never had a problem doing them. The biggest problem the delivery drivers had with them was the brakes. Like a previous poster said, you had to look at the brakes to know which ones to replace them with. We had a Fed-Ex driver with one that put new pads, rotors, and brake sensors on at evey other oil change... that about 20000 miles. That was the other money saving thing for maintenance, was the 10000 oil change interval, but they had to use 10 1/2 quarts of synthetic oil, so not sure if they were really saviing any money or not.

If you really want the bed, and the bolts break off, then fine, wait till you get home with it and drill them out. As for stripping out, well..... I don't know, youll have to improvise, maybe a BFH or a really log strong pry bar??? And don't forget about unbolting or unhooking the e brake cables or bracket. :thumbsup:

Have been working on the donor truck. Pulled the front and rear diff covers to inspect the gears before the swap. They were suprisingly clean and show little wear. Pulled the dash to get the HVAC housing to change my 87 to air conditioning....had to clean out mouse nest from housing too and then cleaned and sprayed the whole thing with lysol, lubed the blower motor bearings and tested the blower resistor with an ohm meter, all seems good to go. The wife is bugging me to get the AC swap done first so that when I'm driving around with the baby, we both don't sweat our buttes off. Theres a set of black steel 17" rims here at work I think off of a Chrysler 300. They have a 5x4 1/2 bolt pattern, I'm curious to see how they would look on my MJ. We will see.... :hmm:

Please turn off the caps lock, and use periods, and commas when typing. It will be much easier to read. :thumbsup:

Great minds think alike!

If you don't end up building one, I think one from a 1985 Ford F100 would look good modified to fit the Comanche. Its angular styling would fit well with the Comanche body lines. Just my opinion. :yes: