dasbulliwagen

Sounds like the release bearing arm is gone or out of place, maybe broken in half and laying inside the belhousing? At any rate, the trans will have to come out of the vehicle to correct a problem like that. The pushrod in the slave cyl engages the release bearing arm ( If thats the word for it). The other end of the arm is seated in the other side of the bellhousing as a leverage point. Youll have to pull the tranny to see what happened. Sorry :eek:

Different How???? You mean the guys with the cowl inductions, or the ones with the grilles cut in them??? Stickers???? Just seems like a funny question... no offense. :D

Maybe your valve cover gasket is leaking, but I bet your rear main seal is leaking too...very common on the 4.0 engine. Ive seen them start leaking even before the warranty runs out on the thing. But the valve cover is a good place to start. And with gaskets... you get what you pay for. And like in body work... preparation/cleaning makes all the difference. Drop the 35 for the good one, the cork one won't last. Edit: Got to advanceauto.com or to autozone.com or to oreillyauto.com and price shop between them, or whatever parts stores you have in your part of the country. Sometimes price shopping makes a HUGE difference! :thumbsup:

Worked more on the AC, PS conversion this week. Found out that the brackets the junkyard sent werent exactly the ones needed for my model year so the alternator I had was wrong and the Ac compressor was wrong, so I did some digging around the shop, found that the alternator from the 86 fit in place, but had bad bearings, the wrong pulley, and the wrong electrical connector. Dug around the shop some more, found that the pulley from an alternator just removed fron an 89 XJ 4.0 was the right pulley and installed it to the 86 alt and checked everything for fit. Looked up the wiring harnesses for both year alternators and decided that if I cut the connector off of the 86 and soldered it on that it should work the same as the 87's 2 wire hookup. Then I went and bought a new alternator for an 86 to put in place for good. As for the compressor, I only needed about a quarter inch to get the comp lined up, so I started grinding down the mounting bracket to set it back where it needed to be, and then wallowed out the holes for the rear mount to move it...looks pretty good! The power steering resevior I ordered was wrong, and wanting to get this done so I can drive it, I asked if the parts dept had any reseviors from a 2004 Caravan... which they did because we replace them regularly. Removed my stock airbox to have room for the remote resevior and made a bracket to mount it to. Installed the gearbox, and lines/hoses, filled it with fluid and found that in order to keep it from sucking air, I had to fill it way over the fill line on the resevior. I just hope it don't overflow after it gets hot due to fluid expansion. Added a bottle of Lucas power steering stop leak to it for good measure ( that stuff is great if you have a pump starting to growl a little). To replace the airbox, I dug up a cold air intake I removed from a Mazda 3 a couple years ago... cut the tube to the length I needed, found that the rubber boot it came with fit perfectly over the original throttle body cover. Bent a bracket to support the airtube and made sure everything had clearance. Ive yet to go on an extended test drive, but it seems Ok for now. We will see this weeked when I have to drive out into the country to work as a volunteer to clean up an overgrown county cemetary. The rest of the AC lines and receiver dryer and charging are next. Wish me luck! :thumbsup:

I wonder what it would cost me to have them drive to Asheboro, NC! Though I don't think the wife would approve... cost too much! :yes: And if this guy with the truck looked all over the country for his truck... why in the world is he selling it????? :nuts:

I remember reading an article in motor trend in the mid-late 80's where they were testing this. I think it was on an s10 or a gmc equivalent, they tested if it was better with tailgate down, tailgate up, and tonnau cover. I think they came up with tailgate up, but then continued and found that adding a wing on top of the tailgate helped even more. It was a very interesting article. Yes as you said, this topic comes up every so often, and has been researched many times.

Ive never heard the pump in mine... I think if you can hear the pump standing outside or inside the vehicle, you should replace it! Check to see if you have spark, if not, probably the crank pos sensor. If you do have spark, get under the truck and put a stethescope on the tank, or put your ear up to it to see if the pump is running while you have someone cyle the ignition key without starting the truck. It should come on and run for about a second or two before shutting off with the truck not running. If not, take your hammer and rap on the tank a few times. Sometimes this will jar the pump into running, at whick point you know you need to replace the pump. Depending on how old the gas is, it could have gummed the pump up bad enough to cause it to have a hard time starting. Good Luck!

Ive been into air cooled VW's for 20 years, and one of the ways they do a stroker is to regrind an original cranks rod throws off center a slightly smaller diameter, thus moving the crank center diameter outward then using new rods machined to fit that size crank. I'm not sure if that would work on the 2.5 or not, but I'm sure with some research with you local machine or race shop the proper parts could be found or machined to order from a preset casting. I'm not sure the idea of using different rods and pistons with altered pin heights would work, as the overall stroke is still the same. Give me some stuff to think about for the future though!

Got onto alldata to find out.... yes the relay is right where I said it was, Alldata shows to remove the front bumper, grill, etc to get to it. see below "The Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) cooling fan relay is located below the right headlamp behind the bumper fascia. 1 Remove front bumper and grill assembly. 2 Remove 1 support bolt near front of reservoir. 3 Remove 2 reservoir mounting bolts. 4 Remove reservoir from vehicle to gain access to vacuum hose. Disconnect vacuum hose from reservoir fitting at rear of reservoir. 5 Disconnect electrical connector at relay. 6 Remove 2 relay mounting bolts and remove relay. INSTALLATION Position relay to body and install 2 bolts. Tighten bolts to 3 Nm (25 inch lbs.) torque. Connect electrical connector to relay. Connect vacuum hose to reservoir. Install reservoir and tighten 2 bolts to 3 Nm (25 inch lbs.) torque. Install front bumper and grill assembly. Sorry Man! :shake:

TCM is transmission Control module, ASD, is auto shutdown, and controls the fuel pump. The fan relay if I'm remebering my years right is inaccessable unless you remove the right headlight assembly and cut through the fiberglass header underneath the bottom of the headlight....I know it sounds stupid, but there was a fan recall I think in the ZJ and sometimes the customer would complain to us about their fan still not working after the recall, and then get pissed off because we had to charge them to fix it.

Ive had three knee surguries for various injuries... I feel your pain. The first surgury was to pin my kneecap back together after breaking it in half top to bottom. The second was for broken bone chips in my other knee. Ive had 2-3 more sprains in them since those, and recently (last3-4 years) resprained one again, and they decided to go into surgury again to clean out some scar tissue and tighten everything up.... that knee is better now than it was before I hurt it. Get well soon!

I looked for the Mopar cam kit for the 2.5, found a part number, took it to the parts dept at my dealer, they stopped making the cam kit in 2003. No dealer in the country has one in stock, and searching has found few if any other companies offering one. I didnt find the one on Clifford, but did find a 4bbl intake and headers for the 2.5. Combine that with a cam, high flow cat, a 390 cfm holley 4bbl carb, MSD ignition and Id bet there would be a considerable improvement......yeah yeah yeah... for what you would pay you could have a 4.0, or a V8, but sometime you have to work with what you have, little by little over time as I'm sure most of us know. A few hundred here and there is doable.... a 2000-3000 dollar one time outlay is a lot harder to do for most of us here, not that it would cost quite that much, or for many of us to have the space or workshop to have a donor vehicle. Its just easier a little at a time, one small project at a time for 95% of us in our driveway or whatever... Just my opinion.....

What in the world do you need that much top end power for???????? Any 2.5 equipped will pull you on the trail in low range the same as any big block chevy. Unless youre doing mud bog racing you don't need the power.

When I was driving 30 miles to work one way, I was getting better than 20 in my 2.5, that was on 2 lane roads with no more than 55 MPH on 235's, 3:55 gear on an AX4.

I just did an oil change and a tire rotation on a Jeep Compass and noticed that the 17" wheels on it were the same bolt pattern and I thought they may look good on your lowrider... being oem and all. I know the backspacing is different because of the front wheel drive, but that would space the wheels farther inboard and may be the look you want anyways... check them out! :thumbsup:

Corvette YELLOW!!!

1 AND 3/16 INCH fits on the one I have sitting here out of an 86 MJ!

I hate going to wal mart. That place is such a cess-pool.... but they do have the best grocery prices, when they decide to restock. There have been multiple times when a very popular product runs out and they don't restock it for like three weeks. And to make it worse, they take the sticker off the shelf to pretend like they never had it..... skeevy bastards!!! :nuts:

MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM.....dark meat!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :drool: :drool: :drool:

The 85 Ford bed would be wider, bigger etc, but with some mods, I think it would look great. The gas door is even in the right place1

Pulled the dash on the 87, to swap in the HVAC housing. Found out that the HVAC housing has its own main harness connector, which connected to the dash harness in the 87 that already has all of those other wires in it! So hoping that the next step of adding the compressor and lines, I will also be able to find the wires apready there.... wish me luck!

The 1985 Ford F100 has a nice stepside that has the angular styling that the Comanche has. I don't have a pic of one, but know that it would look good with the Comanche body. One of these days Ill get to post pics up here and work something up on Paint to match pics of both of them up together to really see how it would look. :thumbsup:

Theres an adjustment bolt/ threaded section at the other end of the cable under the bed. it has two nuts, one of them is a lock nut. Just loosen them up, hook up the pedal end and then set your adjustment where you want it. :thumbsup:

If I had the 1200 to get it, I would grab it up. Like previous poster said, if they are rusty you would usually see it in the seams. A nice full size is a thing to behold. Take our advice and save this truck, if only to resell it to one of us! :banana:

The driveshaft doesnt need to be off to check, just grab the pinion and see if there is movement there that shouldnt be. just turning the shaft to check the U-joints are bad may not show a bad pinion bearing. You could pu the rear up on jack stands, chock the front wheels real good, and have someone run the truck in gear for you to see if you can duplicate the noise. It has work for me before diagnosing a bad pinion bearing. Just do it in an open area and stay out of the way if the vehicle falls, and the person inside can be ready to hit the brakes. Or better yet, do it on a lift in a shop. If the noise is truly speed related and in the driveline, you should be able to hear it doing this. And if not, then time to check to front end! :cheers: