dasbulliwagen

I think the only ones that didnt get the cutout were 2wd column shift models. Ive only ever seen one.

Got a High-Lift Extreme Jack with a mount kit and a handle holder, a bumper bar to mount lights to, and the wife and I just bought a new leather living room suite that includes a total of 5 recliners..

I have the bench in mine too. I put the car seat on the passenger side and when we needed three to ride, the wife sat in the middle. Yeah there aren't any airbags, but its still perfectly legal. But in our household too, the MJ is the third (spare) vehicle to our regular dailys. Maybe you have a friend that can store it for you for a while until you get everything figured out? But whatever happens you still need to do the right thing for your family, and we can all understand that. Good luck.

And if your front springs are new, they will settle slightly over time. I put the 5.5 RE springs on the front of mine a year ago, and the front has settled slightly since. Maybe 1/2-3/4". And it has always had a lean to the left, so I put double spring isolators on the driver side to compensate. It seems to have done the trick! Like was said, install the front bumper and winch before tearing it down again. If its still too high, I personally would do shackles in the rear before trying to take the front apart again.

He says it is better than any current pickup, but with its design, I don't see it ever being anything other than a niche vehicle like a Ridgeline, or Avalanche. Or just as a status symbol, which I think half or better of the current owners of hybrids/plugins buy them for. Reminds me of the Southpark episode where they were getting SMUG pollution from all the Prius owners!

aFe just announced its pricing, up to 50% off at their website, though Ive seen the prices reflected on amazon as well.

Another thing youll need to look into is New York State laws regarding engine swaps and state inspections for modified vehicles. I know that they are sticklers when it comes to that stuff, so theres no need investing any time or money into it if you can't get it inspected and tagged when all is said and done. If that is an issue, youd probably be money ahead to find a clean rust free southern truck with a 4.0 and just sell the 2.8 truck..... assuming it is more power youre after. And as was said, a 3.1 or a 3.4 from a Camaro/ Firebird will bolt right in with very little modification using all your existing engine accessories and offer more power than what you currently have, and still be compliant with NY state emission equipment laws. Do your research before spending any money. Youll be much happier in the end.

Front axles will swap from a Comanche, Cherokee, ZJ Grand Cherokee, and TJ Wrangler. Some will be high pinion, some low pinion, some with or without vacuum disconnect. The biggest thing you'll be looking for is correct gear ratio. Stay away from transmissions from a 4.0 as none will work for your 2.5. ZJ Grand Cherokee steering box is an easy upgrade as long as you're swapping. It has fewer turns lock to lock. I went from manual steering to stock power to ZJ power on mine. Makes a big difference. Try to stay with a 4 cyl XJ for a trans swap and get the front driveshaft and shifter and linkage with it. You'll need to have your original rear driveshaft shortened to work in your truck after the 4*4 swap too.

What kind of front end parts do you need? And where are you located? I'm having a hard time thinking about anything on the front end that is hard to get and can't think of anything, unless youre in another country (not the USA). Assuming youre in the US, rockauto.com generally has the best prices over a broad range of brands and choices. And any parts store near me can get whatever I need usually within a day if I don't want to wait for an online order. Then theres a plethora of aftermarket companies making upgrade parts. You might get more results on any of these by searching the same year Cherokee XJ. Some places don't list the Comanche, even though all the front end parts are the same.

The whistling noise in my experience with these is caused by the idle air control passages. Not really anything you can do other than a snorkle, or reinstalling the OEM airbox designed to muffle the noise. I'm not sure I have a least fav mod on my truck. I havent really had any issues that have really bothered me with all Ive done to it over the years. Though my home made fan shroud for my electric WJ cooling fan is falling apart. Ill need to remake the whole setup soon before it damages something.

XJ rear bumper and WAGONEER!!!!

My truck isnt very beefy at all, but the beefiest parts on it are the Core4x4 Control arms and track bar! Ill have an 8.8 someday.

I think my first step would be to ask the people at where its parked. Seems to be other Jeeps around, maybe its a specialty shop?

We one rented a jackhammer and trailer compressor setup to demo an old school playground. the compressor consisted of a small block Ford v8. The only way i can see it working properly is with a custom crank set up to run half of the engine like a 4 cyl with the one side crank throws spaced properly as a 4 cyl, and the other side with either a custom head or like was said with no exhaust valves opening and the cam lobes for that side setup for 2 stroke operation with check valves on each port.

Sorry, I'm not with Chrysler Dodge Jeep dealer anymore. I'm at a GM dealer now, so I no longer have access. There is a way to do it through the Jeep website. They can get you the same info. I'm a former Michigan resident myself. Hopefully your truck is not too rusty. I know what Michigan winter roads can do to a vehicle. Makes me glad I'm living in the southeast now.

2 inch coil spacers in front, and longer shackles in the rear will get you what you need. Most JK tires are 32 inches (at least the aluminum ones are). I ran a set of takeoffs on mine for a long time with very little lift. There was rubbing though, but not bad enough for me to do anything about it until I went full lift.

Use a bigger phillips screwdriver, and punch a hole through the glass right above the screw, then just seal it up with clear silicone! (NO PLEASE don't!)

If I had to spend $1000 on the XJ tail ligt conversion, I wouldnt do it either, but if its something you can do yourself with decent results, it might be worth it.

Its a spacer that mounts between the steering box and the frame rail. is triangular in shape, and has places where esch steering box bolt goes through it. Youll see it when you take it apart.

The manifold on these isnt always the issue.... they like to break the very front and rear manifold bolts off in the head and then create a leak. Its likely your manifold is good still. I wouldnt buy one before pulling it off and making sure about any broken bolts. My truck has both of them broken, and at least the front one is leaking, but its not bad enough for me to want to fix it until I have to really dig into it.

I did this to mine. Yes to the list above. The wiring for the power steering high pressure switch should already be there and be plug and play. Good luck finding a resevior for a 2.5. I gave up and used one from a dodge journey and custom mounted it.... unless you have a complete 2.5 power steering pump donor already! Youll need to be careful with the steering gear spacer behind the gear. If your truck is rusty at all, the thing will probably disintegrate when you take it off. Steel reproductions are available if you need to buy one.

Yes, its possible to do what youre saying, but youll want to keep tension on the chain so it doesnt fall in while doing the head work. Chrysler has a special tool to hold the chains on the bottom of the idler, but as long as you don't let it fall youll be ok. And before you disassemble, line up all your timing marks and don't let the crank move while its apart.

I agree too, no need to swap it as long as you arent having any issues and you don't beat on it. Before my 4x4 swap what I assume was the original 35 under my truck had 340,000 miles on it with no noise.

My thinking for a lock, might be something like a box cover that tabs in at the bottom, and has one hole tab at the top to match to another tab on the bumper where a padlock could be installed, thus covering the whole fairlead area. It would keep crap off and out of that area when not in use too.... unless youre the mudder type, in which case it would be a mud trap....

As a long time Jeep dealer tech, Ive never seen this happen on a 3.7 or 4.7. Especially since they hadnt been in there that long, they should have come right out. If youre going to do one head gasket, you may as well do both of them, and maybe get valve job while youre at it. The biggest issues these engine have is with overheating and then having head issues, so if you intend to keep it long term, I would either fix both sides, or get a full rebuilt one to go back in. And then use a dab of anti sieze on the plug threads from now on.