MancheKid86

I just looked up the sale ad for that truck and it's a short box, plus it has full fiberglass besides and those aren't made for the longbed MJs unfortunately. :( Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk :wall: no more intoxicated posts for me bahahahaha

It's for an automatic. Inability to start the thing at all, and the backup light issue. that makes sense, the only auto i have ever owned, is still is not finished, collecting dust at my shop 5 hours away. thanks for a legitimate answer

I call BS. I have the complete steering from a V8 ZJ on my truck right now. Works great and is larger than stock. It makes sense if you want beefier TRE's. Yes, but at that point you probably want to go to a different drag link and probably a WJ knuckle. Suddenly its not so simple. THIS is what i was talking about, not the tierod assy.

just out of curiosity, why such a desire for the NSS? only benefit i see is the inability to start with the clutch pedal depressed. or is there something more to it?

update, licensed M2 Aircraft Maintenance Engineer, working on obtaining an M1 license now to grandfather in structural repair and avionics licenses as well

it doesnt specify that its number one, just that it was top 5

THIS you can say all you want that it works fine, but if your geometry isnt parallel, then it isnt set up properly you won't notice offroad (unless going highspeeds) onroad, if it isnt parallel, then it will induce bump steer ALSO, v8 ZJ tierod assembly is a GREAT upgrade, but, v8 ZJ drag link will not work, JSYK

Drove it

it definitely is

finally have some pictures! not many but thats okay. TRUCK LIVES, made it out of the shop i had it stuffed away in. still need to do more, trim fenders, install flair's some wiring, alignment, welding ect. but its out of the shop!!!!! she is back on 40's doorless mod, i did mine with quick pins, i do not like how most people cut the lower tang off, i think that's hokey, with a little more effort you can utilize the entire bracket like it was designed for, it does take a min to align the holes and drop the pins through, but hey, it works upgraded locking hubs ( i took auto locking hubs, and cut the auto locking clutch off to make locking hubs) warn premium locking hubs are crap, ive broken too many of them, yes i know this is due to it being an external hub setup, this is my fix new upgraded ups on top, crappy old hubs underneath both transfercases torn apart, and gone through, i like to do this once a year. new tires i pretty much stole for the price i paid for them the best i could do to shim my new power door, top corner dips in more than i like, but i havent found a way to fix that yet more to come, soon ill have some wheeling photos!

looks good, IIRC, you posted a thread a few years ago? i definitely remember that pic of the tj in the drainage, no mistaking it

it makes sense for a 180 degree split on ring gap 100% in doing so, it reduces the probability of all the ring gaps lining up in the same area, reducing the loss of compression any other degree's will bring the probability factor up. why chance it?

as long as you don't drive like an asshat, you don't need a sway bar. yes some people like it, for obvious on road handling reason's, just don't pretend your driving some ricer i bet you flex alot better now. none of my jeeps have one, even fully loaded. for your fender, i would suggest pulling that flare off of it, and taking it to a paintless dent repair shop (yes that is a thing) it has probably been creased or stretched at the fender and will require hammer and dolly work. it would be a shame for a nice truck such as this to get dinged up trying to fix it, also, why didnt you claim a hit and run and let insurance deal with it?

i picked up a 2wd mj with a ba10-5. the reverse gear blew with only 115 xxx KM on it. you can find donors for super cheap, and make ALL your money back on parting it out, while still having all the parts needed. depending on year of ax-15 the input shaft diameter will be different. pb-74 is the correct bushing needed for the swap dependent on the year (bushings i hydro out, bearings i chisel out from the crank) my entire 4wd conversion cost $240 COMPLETE so its not expensive at all, as long as you can wheel and deal and not get taken advantage of. torx e12 socket is needed for the top two bolts on the bell housing. if you use a newer trans, you need to swap the CPS sensor, renix and HO are not compatible 87MJTIM says to get a clutch that matches the trans, the only difference between the ba10-5 clutch and ax15 is the throwout bearing depending on year you select. earlier years have internal, later years have external that's where the difference in clutch kit comes in. if you choose external, select a newer cherokee as your vehicle at the parts store. your internal can fail, IF you do not properly lubricate it, and the shaft that is on. there are three things that happen. the internal release bearing isnt properly lubricated on install (or due to being in for so long) that it doesn't allow the throw out bearing to properly extend, causing it to rupture. OR the roll pin works its way out of the clutch line internally. OR you cheap out and get a lower quality reman. the internal i have in my Mild build jeep has 340 000 KM on it, ZERO issues having taken all the provisions necessary, do the 10w30 motor oil conversion while doing the swap. it is a jeep certified thing. i run 10w30 in both of my standard jeeps, and its cheaper. helps the shifts be nicer any questions, i myself have done this swap more than once, and others like me have. all the info is here. good luck with your swap!

hey all, was wondering who's running 40's besides Johnny Quest, Mini Beast and myself? we can't be the only ones on this site that is doing it. now, the catch, if you are id like pics of wheel wells front and rear for reference. thanks! Devon

that would make sense if he had the issue before rad swap. if your water pump was failing. revving it to 3500 rpm and allowing more coolant to flow would drop the temps back down. sounds like you have a faulty new rad like hornbrod said. doesnt hurt to replace the water pump, but if the problem persist's then it is the new rad.

that'll teach ya for listening to drake!!! :rotf: :rotfl2: :laughin: glad you got it fixed. coulda been worse, sucks that it happened. time to put some driving lamps on the front aimed in the ditches! saved me a few times

not all of those stickers actually have information on it. 2 of 7 of mine still had the ink on them

as long as trans is the same your set. ie (external to external. internal to internal) may have difference in firewall mounting holes, can be re drilled to fit if needed. i converted mine to a "3 peice" through Advanced Adapters *edit* yj has a difference length hydraulic line. only an issue if you plan to run the stock line. but with a "3 peice" you have the option of putting your own in

hey yall! bought a set of new 40" super swampers. new fenders havent been trimmed yet. rear was already set up for 50% tread 40's, so i may have to revise the wells a bit more just wondering what everyone else has done to fit their big kid tires. lets see some pics! i have an idea on how much I'm going to cut. i just want to see if I'm trimming too much or too little. i took and trimmed most of the inside lip of my bush wackers out so the tire will not contact them and extrude the fender and that way i don't have to raise them above the body line . :needpics:

Sucks. There's lots of them out there though... Ya, I'm just trying to get one for less then 150$ i have a block you can have for free, under 2 hours north from the oroville border crossing

slight update. work keeps me BUUUUUUUSY, no time to play or tinker at all. . finished re drilling and mounting the old style trim on new style front clip ( i hate the crappy 3 piece plastic front clips, they look cheap and hoakey) fixed my train horn. mounted a new to me drivers door, with power everything, and finished shimming it. still need to create a quick disconnect wiring harness for it (going to use the two rear window switches as FRONT AND REAR WINCH CONTROLLERS!!!!! obviously, i will create a lock out switch so i do not accidentally bump the winches when not needed, and a proper relayed fused harness) rebuilt my track bar (oem bushing was bored out to a .500 dia bolt, but it had too much slop in the elastomer, and the sleeve was to thin afterwards) so i pressed the elastomer out keeping the outer bushing in tact, machined down some poly urethane to size. tapered the ends of them and pressed them in for an interference fit (took a few tons to get them in) and then cut down an inner sleeve out of solid steel to fit, no crappy rolled inner sleeve. with a perfect diameter bolt matched to the inner diameter of the sleeve for ZERO lash. sleeve also pressed in for an interference fit inspected and greased my tie rods and ball joints removed my locking hubs, hubs, and spindles. replaced all the seals. inspected and re packed the bearings, and set wheel bearings for proper preload while spinning the tires removed my front diff cover, inspected cleaned and resealed my front diff and topped the fluids back up LOTS more to do, i let the old girl in pieces and wheeled the tits out of her. new box next month from a member 5 1/2 hours away. so box bob will have to be done. i am working on having a straight truck. front clip fenders and doors now all have no dents. two dents on the cab to pull. and the new box has zero dents as well. will be copying reson46's body armor upgrades and steel fenders. and h3resq's roll cage with a little more tie in's to the front for more structual support. but thats when i can afford doing so.

i think, what me and hornbrod suggested is your gauge is giving a false indication of temp. verify the temp like hornbrod said with an infrared thermometer. your question about the water pump. yes, it will help, if its not keeping up with the amount of coolant required to be circulating through the system. good way to function check is keep your revs around 3500 rpm and see if the temps drop down. if they do then your pump is on its way out. when i did my cooling system i upgraded everything except the rad (i went oem, due to the debunking of a 3 core. it cools the same amount as oem, has the exact same surface area of coolant flow. some memembers even stated that it doesnt cool as efficient as oem, so its requied 3 high flow aux fans to fix that issue) but what i did do was new rad open cooling system conversion flow kooler water pump ported and polished thermostat housing and a performance high flow thermostat @ oem spec temp rating wired my aux fan to a switch on the dash. i now have issues keeping it at opperating temps. this was with a 4.5L stroker, on 40's in 104 F and up heat in the desert (it does get nice and hot climbing big hills, middle of summer, low speeds. but with the aux fan on it drops immediately)

how does this help the O/P? i wouldn't consider this over heating, it is close though. do you have an electric fan? what temp of thermostat did you throw in?. how is the condition of your temp sensor? it could be giving a false reading have you pressure washed your radiator?

lookin good! you ever think about waxing your truck? it would look better than the pressure wash photos and last longer! :brows: