Pete M

it isn't enough of a restriction to matter. there is something else wrong if the engine can't stay at around 210* under all conditions. how old is the radiator? water pump? do you have an intact fan shroud for the mech fan? items that can cause a sudden rich situation include: bad coolant temp sensor, bad O2 sensor, or an injector that has failed in some manner and is spewing gas in an uncontrolled manner.

are those JK rims? if so, what thickness adapters did you use? truck is coming along nicely!

I have 4 of the short ones (used the most), 2 middle height ones and 2 of the biggest I could get at harbor freight (because my truck is now kinda tall and I needed something that could reach the bumpers/frame).

well, lets start with the basics then. put a 195* thermostat back in. removing it does nothing to prevent overheating. its sole purpose is to keep closed to help bring the engine up to operating temp as quickly as possible so you can burn the fuel at max efficiency. after that, it opens up and becomes irrelevant. edit: corrected my temp

I don't understand what this means.

crazy idea here, but is there some sort of design reason why the main leaf couldn't have 2 holes in it? the original plus another one an inch back? that would allow for fine tuning.

what has gone wrong with the current engine?

the later years have an electric pickup that can be swapped out for the mechanical one from the earlier years. you may need to mix annd match the little shafts that the speed gear is on.

auto or manual? when you get a spare moment, try to add your truck's details into your signature.

are the tires all the same pressure?

the link in my sig should have a couple writeups for dakota seats. one of our members is currently fabbing up custom floor brackets for that swap too. don't get a seat that doesn't have headrests (early MJ benches didn't have them).

if I had to redo my truck: -HO swap from a 91-96 cherokee (96 being OBD2) including dash and interior (having said that, my wiring harness is a corroded pile of crap, so I need something in good shape. if yours is corrosion free, I'd probably keep it renix and swap in an 88-90 computer which gives a few extra hp over the 87) -95+ AX-15 -96+ np231 (has a sealed rear output) OR any 23 spline input 231 and then rebuild it with all the goodies (wide chain, better planetary gears, and SYE) -regear the dana 44 to 4.56 and add ZJ disk brakes -Tom Woods driveshafts front and rear (or at least the rear) -dual brake booster from a WJ (one of the best mods you can do, period.) -remove the rear height-sensing prop valve for a manually adjustable one -I'm assuming the front is a nice clean dana 30 and so if I was in a rust-belt state I would probably keep it (because the junkyard axles are probably in pretty sad shape) and regear to 4:56 and upgrade to late model axle shafts with the bigger ujoints and a one-piece passenger shaft. SOA conversion in the back -long arm 6" kit in the front -armor, armor, armor. rocker guards being at the top of my list. I smashed both my rockers on a simple trail ride about a month before I had planned to do rocker guards. and then never, ever let it touch salt.

180k and all 4 are solid so fingers crossed. but the lower boots are trashed. I've hosed them down with grease in the hopes they can stay usable until I add in the lift (and replace all of the frontend parts). I saw a rumor that the rear lower arms might be getting a recall soon. mine seem just fine but I'll take some free new bushings

have you looked into benches from other trucks? the Dakota split bench seems to be popular.

youtube should have a few write-ups on windshield installs. edit: will this one work?:

the rear window is "glued" in like most other trucks so you should be able to find a youtube for that. the rest are the same as Cherokees so look for "cherokee window weatherstripping" and you should find what you need.

most of it just pulls off. which pieces are you talking about specifically?

those are pretty bad indeed.

did you use the original crossover pipe? it seems that it'd be too low.

whatever the weaker locktite is. just has to hold enough to tighten the nuts. I replaced only the e12s.

pretty sure the studs were like an inch longer than the bolt would be. add locktite to the stud and use 2 nuts together to tighten it in. let the locktite cure before installing the trans and try not to bottom out the studs.

you should probably start a new thread for the ZJ

facebook.com/Comancheclub/ it's not a page for discussions as much as a page for sharing MJotM and pics linked from the IG page.

a budget boost (2" pucks and lift shackles) will clear your 31s and costs less than 100 bucks. then later on you can do the lift and axles at the same time. it's a whole lot less work to gut the suspension just once.