Pete M

added to my calender

I guess it doesn't have to be anything more than photos with arrows pointing to the common leak locations. although we could expand on it to include links to writeups on the individual fixes. anyone want to spearhead this? you don't have to necessarily do it all yourself, you can just be the guy that organizes it.

2.5s always need a bit more gear than 4.0s But I would also add in an AX-5 swap so you have overdrive.

I took the entire wire harness and interior. I don't remember seeing any.

glad the fix turned out to be cheap. how are classes going?

when are you starting that build thread?

those lengths are the starting point. an alignment might get it even closer to ideal

engine rpm (and by extension gear ratio) is not the be-all, end-all to mpgs. the actual math is far more complicated and it could turn out that 4.10s might give better fuel economy than 3.73s. The rule of thumb is keeping the engine in the optimum spot of its torque curve.

you got lucky, no doubt about that.

I would add an adjustable aftermarket prop into the rear line. then I could tune it to be exactly right.

someone send him a request for a build thread!

180* but I'd bet he has an adjustable suspension.

you're not the first to mistake a 30 for a 44, probably not the last.

take that list with a grain of salt. Chrysler reused codes over the years. I seriously doubt your truck had a nickle metal hydride battery or a hood lock.

another vote for 4.10s let's say that 3.55s brings it back to "factory", but factory sucked so I want at lease 3.73, but then I want a bit more to compensate for the larger mass of tire and so 4.10s. also, I've driven an MJ with 4.10s and 31s and it felt perfect to me.

I can appreciate the engineering challenge, but...

it could be worse. it could always be worse.

pics and a part number!

how far can they push the limits? I'm a bit puzzled as to why the engine isn't a bit... shiny-er. but I guess it's more rat rod than show truck.

things are getting real!

nice work!

there should be a couple writeups in the link in my sig. maybe one of them has what you seek?

95 YJ axles are 297 CAD remember that the drivers side can come from any of those non-CAD 297 Jeeps. and technically you only need the outer half and stub for a 95 YJ so maybe you can get them new?

the shafts are sized to those particular ujoints. you'll need shafts that take the 297 joints in order to run them.